Car pulls hard right under braking
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 195
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From: Palmetto, FL
Car: 92 Z/28 Convertible
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Mad Dog Auto 700R4
Car pulls hard right under braking
So, here's the story. The car pulls really hard right when I step on the brakes. I replaced both rotors, calipers, pads, and rubber lines a month ago, still have the same problem today....
I even went and exchanged the left caliper again and it still has the problem. In fact if you look at the rotor you can still see the original machining marks from when I bought the rotors a month ago. The right caliper looks like normal wear.
When I have the car jacked up and someone in the car, they step on the break and I cannot turn the left tire.
I have bled the brakes several times, both with someone in the car pushing on the pedal and also with my vac bleeder.
Any other ideas??
I even went and exchanged the left caliper again and it still has the problem. In fact if you look at the rotor you can still see the original machining marks from when I bought the rotors a month ago. The right caliper looks like normal wear.
When I have the car jacked up and someone in the car, they step on the break and I cannot turn the left tire.
I have bled the brakes several times, both with someone in the car pushing on the pedal and also with my vac bleeder.
Any other ideas??
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: Palmetto, FL
Car: 92 Z/28 Convertible
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Mad Dog Auto 700R4
hmmm... Can't say I noticed a difference. Wasn't really paying attention to the volume at the time, but thinking about it, the bleed I just did Saturday on the left side seemed like it didn't have as much volume as I thought it should...
I am not opposed to a pulling everything and rebuilding, or whatever is necessary, just don't want to if I don't have to.
In the meantime, anyone know of a good tutorial on removing/replacing/rebuilding entire brake system from reservoir down??
I am not opposed to a pulling everything and rebuilding, or whatever is necessary, just don't want to if I don't have to.
In the meantime, anyone know of a good tutorial on removing/replacing/rebuilding entire brake system from reservoir down??
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: Palmetto, FL
Car: 92 Z/28 Convertible
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Mad Dog Auto 700R4
Where can I get hard lines?
They don't seem to be available from the local Autozone. Any online places I can order from??
Thanks
Thanks
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: ZZ4 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt w/3.73
If you have "new" calipers, new hoses, no kinked lines and you are still experiencing this symptom, it's your combination valve. Before doing any work on your brakes did you have super dark fluid in the master cylinder? If so that was seal material and it's clogged the combination valve (aka - prop valve) front ports. I'd go ahead and replace the master cylinder (new only) as well, because it's due.
PM me for more info...
PM me for more info...
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: Palmetto, FL
Car: 92 Z/28 Convertible
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Mad Dog Auto 700R4
Was afraid of that
I was afraid someone was going to tell me that.. The fluid is pretty dark...
So, can someone give me idiot proof directions to bench bleeding the master cylander, and snything else I need to watch out for??
Thanks
So, can someone give me idiot proof directions to bench bleeding the master cylander, and snything else I need to watch out for??
Thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Before you tear into the braking system again - have you had the alignment checked? It's my experience that, while a bad brake can make the car drift one way or the other during braking, it's much less noticable than when the same drift is caused by alignment issues. Before I tore the braking system all down, I'd spend $39.95 on an alignment.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: Palmetto, FL
Car: 92 Z/28 Convertible
Engine: LB9
Transmission: Mad Dog Auto 700R4
Yep, had that done about 3 weeks ago... Besides, I am sure it is not the alignment, as the new rotor on the left side you can still see the original tool marks from when the rotor was ground.. Definitely the brakes aren;t squeezing on that side.
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