When i am accelerating or crusing i have to keep the wheel to the left but when i start using the Brakes the car runs perfectly strait with no dift in any direction. why would it do this? I was thinking some thing with the brakes cause of the way it acts.

 

Sounds like a caliper is dragging or you have a brake line clogged.

Ed

 

OK then how can i unclog the line or fix the caliper? how expensive are we talking to fix?

 

How much do you work on your car? It's not difficult to do but since your life is riding on it, I wouldn't make it my first project.

 

I have changed the engine, front wheel bearings/rotors on both sides and tons of little stuff on this car and have done lots of work on other vehicles tho mostly on 1ton or larger trucks. not a mechanic but i am competent to not forget to replace a bolt. i just thought of something could it bo a Ebrake problem? like out of adjustment? I replaced a stuck cable a while back it has always done this but i didnt readjust it i just changed it and put it back to how it was could the ebrake be slightly set?

 

It's possible it sould be a sticking e-brake cable. Just jack up the car and turn the rear wheels to see if they are sticking, could do the same for the front.

 

is there anything i can spray in all the springs and crap on the inside of the drumbrakes to cleak all the rust and crap out of there?

 

Sure. There are many brands of brake cleaner. This link might be helpful:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=342857

JamesC

 

Sounds to me like your right front flexible brake line is clogged.

What those do, is the fittings on the ends rust on the inside; the rust builds up and clogs the artery, until finally, the fluid gets forced in by brake pedal pressure (many hundreds of psi sometimes) and then can't get back out, which forces the brake on that side to drag.

Next time you drive the car, get out after you've gone a few miles, and see if the right front wheel is any hotter than the left front wheel. If so, you've found your problem.

When you get the results from investigation as opposed to "maybe it's this, maybe it's that", and find that the RF brake is staying applied, change out the rubber lines. I'd suggest a full set of stainless ones from Russell.

I seriously doubt your rear brake, either the parking brake or the drums, are making the car pull; or that you'll get any results at all from anything in a spray can. I think you'd be totally wasting your time and money dinking around with any of that.

 

well i just changed both front calipers, the lines, rotors, and bearings it still pulls to the right but only half as much. it still straightens up under braking just now it only does it under heavy braking and not any time i hit the pedal like before. could unevenly worn Drum shoes cause this? im thinking that i had a problem with the front brakes before and now that i have that fixed the pull from it caused my steering be thrown out of whack and i think that since it only does the straightening thing under heavy braking when the rear brakes take affect it must be the left hand side rear is to strong or the right side is to weak correct? Which would cause it to pull in the same direction as i am correctin the pull makeing me have to correct back. i was asking about the brake cleaner cause the last time i had the Drum off the springs and everything looked rusted together. i have been working on this problem actively its just that i have very little experiance with drum brakes and wanted to ge some more advice first.

 

Its most likely your alignment. Sounds to me like worn suspension parts and a combination of too much toe in. When on the brakes the car will toe out more due to forward exertion on the a-arm bushings when the wheels are stopping and the chassis wants to keep going.

Its highly unlikely that a draging brake would be the culprit. Useually a culprit of brakes is the car pulling to one side under braking when that corner brake is working but the other side isn't.

 

ok then which would serve me better in the short and long run from a money straped position new bushings and stuff with a home done alighnment or just get an alighnment? i dont want to get just an alighnment because any work i do will ruin it again but i cant afford both and it is really hard to drive the car right now.

 

You can not do an alignment by yourself- too critical of specs that can not be measured by someone on a garage floor without critical reading instriments.

In both your options you are asking about, you will need to have a professional alignment done. So just an alignment would be cheapest and best way out of the two choices. trhe alignment mechanic can and should then tell you ant parts are worn by inspecting them in person.

 

OK then they can adjust for the worn parts for now till i can get the new parts?

 

They can at least make the car drivable and tell you if anything is unsafe. There is no way anyone can tell you anything else over the internet. the car needs to be seen and inspected in person by touching the parts.

 

ok then. well now where can i find the parts cause as you can see when i replace one part i usually replace the whole group or related parts unless i have replace them previously

 

There is still a lot you can do yourself before you get an alignment. Have you put the car in the air and checked for play in the wheels, either up and down or side to side?
You can also inspect bushings, if the they look torn or cracked and brittle, they need to be replaced. Bushings are cheap and if your car has over 100K miles on the stock ones they are due for a change anyway. Hopefully you know someone with a press or a cheap shop cause you will need one to replace them. I would fix as many things as I could before paying for an alignment. HTH.

 

thats what i was thinking. yes i have checked for play, in doin that both me and my mechanic pulled on the wheel and it had no play other than the steering was a bit loose like it moved 1/8inch when you pulled on the front or back of the wheel no up or down,front or rear play at all and the ball joints have no play either that i could detect. but i deffinately know that the bushings need replaced cause i can push and deform them with my fingers really soft. on then rear i can twist the LCAs around abit.

 

Bushings are cheap, just gotta find a press. I guess some guys bang out and in with a hammer. I tried it once and I got them out okay but I messed one of up trying to put them back in. A press is way easier.
An 1/8 inch isn't much play side to side but could you see what was loose? You said you put in new bearings, how do the tie rods look?