OK so here is the deal. I am building a pretty extreame camaro and I tried upgrading the brakes from the ground up, but it turns out, I am having a nightmare of problems doing so.

I started by re-using my booster and MC and prop valve. Then I bought stainless lines and intalled them, they leaked a bit, but I fixed it pretty much. Moving on.

I then wanted to install some line lock. Little did I know it is super hard to properly flare stainless steel. So that was a disaster. leaked everywhere. I tried again, but this time using a blow torch and gloves to soften the metal so it would flare, this fixed it all for the most part. Then I re-used my old rear rotors and got new fronts, and new pads all around. One caliper had a stuck bleader that was stuck open and I couldn't install my speed bleeders!! So I got a new front caliper, then the same thing happened with a rear one too!! (ready to kill something)

So I got a new rear and front. Now I am ready to give the car a brake job and so I do. Now I am trying to bleed the system and I can't get the damn thing to bleed, it is leaking out of the MC now!!! So I get a new booster and MC.

I know you are suposed to change both, but at this point I am so pissed, I just want it to work, cuz the paintshop needs my car in a day or 2. So I rush and install the MC. It fixes the leak, mainly cuz I heated the fittings as I inserted them. So now I am pretty annoyed.

I try bleading again. This time with speed bleaders, I can get the rear to bleed, OK, not great, but OK. At least they are not leaking and they have been bled.

I move on to the front and I can't get a drop out. I try for 2 days and still can't. The body guy needs my car (an hour drive) so I bite the bullet and drive real slow and get it to him.



Here I am 2 months later, the are is going to be done tomorrow or tonight. What do you suggest I do?

I am going to get the car dyno tunned soon. Should I just give them free reighn over the car and tell them to tune it, give them the new booster, have them put it in, and do "whatever it takes" to get the whole systeme running like stock again? I also have an adj. prop valve that I want in there. Should i just be like "get new line, flare the line, install the adj.prop valve, fix all leaks and install the new booster, and give me a good bleed!!!!"

I am on my wits end, cuz this is the last mech. thing I wanna have problems with and right now it the only mech problem I have. (I have a couple small electircal ones.)

PLEASE GIVE YOUR ADVICE

 

LOL, I have to laugh but only cuz your issue is the story of my life with car. I always seem to getmyself into these problems as well and its because I wontlet anyone else work onmy car. I try to do everything myself.
Did you first bench bleed the new master? When you open the bleeder on the frront calipers, does the brake pedal move to the floor?

 

Yes I did blead the MC, I did for so long it was insane. lol

no the pedal allways stays where it should

I think it might be time to close my eyes and wait for the bill, and just pay a shop that has the right tools,(I will be crying in a corner as they touch her) LOL.

 

the pedal should drop to the floor when any of the bleeder screws are opened. this is of course with a second person pumping the brake pedal while your bled the line. If your pedal is not moving to the floor after the valve is opened then the function of the master cylinder is either not displacing the fluid or maybe somehow the line lock you installed is setup incorrectly. After the bench bleed, I would start with the RR caliper and bled it a few cycles, then move to the LR then the RF and lastly the LF. Im sure you know what your doing but theres gotta be something stupid that your missing. I would double check all your lines along with how you installed the booster and MC.