i got a 9 bolt rearend that im getting ready to install and im running into a problem with the calipers. i ordered aluminums and they came in today and they are totally different i figured they would be identical just lighter. what all would it take to install the aluminum calipers and will my emergency brake cables and all work? also on this 9 bolt i cant find the drain plug anywhere, to service it, i know it should be a little square thing but i cant find it. also what kind of oil should i put in it anything specific i need for the posi?

another question is while im doing all of this is there anything else that i should change out while im doing this rear end swap? i plan on doing universal joints but anything else i should consider while i have it apart?

 

To use the aluminum calipers you need to swap all the hardware from an 89+ rear disc setup.

 

Installation of the calipers and e-brake:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...iscs-89-a.html

I'm not familiar with the 9-bolt, but I'd assume there's a plug on the right shoulder of the diff. Is there a rubber plug on the diff cover?

I, along with many others, use Mobil 1 with GM's posi additive.

JamesC

 

it looks like one of my axle seals is leaking how hard is this to change thanks for the info james c i ended up just getting the cast iroc calipers for it.

 

I just recalled that this is a 9-bolt. What's below is for a 10, so you might consider a search.

You have to remove the brake parts and diff cover. If the cross shaft bolt head is rounded, consider replacement from GM, P/N 14056196. A 5/16" six-point socket and a quarter-inch breaker bar works wonders. Pull the C-clips, P/N 344171. Yank the axels. Check them for grooving (I replaced mine with off-set bearings from CarQuest, BGS RP5707). Use a slide hammer to pop the old seals. I drove the new ones in (a little RTV will not only act as a lube but also a second seal, so to speak) with a four-pound sledge and a piece of 2 x 4.

JamesC

 

No C clips on a 9 bolt.

 

which bolt is the cross shaft bolt? sorry i know this is an old thread but ive just started to work on this rearend.

Apeiron there are no c-clips? so i just remove the cross shaft bolt and pull the axles?

picture of the guts:

 

There's no cross shaft in a 9-bolt, and no cross shaft bolt. James' write-up is for the 10-bolt.

You unblot the brake backing plates and use a slide hammer to pull the axles. The bearings will come out with them.

99.999% of the time, when an axle seal leaks, it's because the bearing is bad. The other .001% of the time the bearing is bad. Therefore, replace the bearings when you do the seals.

Most rear ends don't have a drain plug. The 9-bolt is no exception.

The only way to put the PBR calipers on a 9-bolt, is to use the 89 9-bolt backing plates. Only 1989 9-bolt ones will work, since 88-back all have the crappy old cast-iron Saginaw calipers, and 89 was the last year for the 9-bolt. 10-bolt ones will not work. Being a 1-year-only part that only came on a very few cars, those backing plates are not common and not easy to come by.

 

hey man i appreciate it so i dont need to do anything under the cover just unbolt the backing plates and pull out the axles?

also another question for you guys this is a posi unit and i need to put new fluid in it now i know i should use 80-90w but should i use the limited slip gear oil in 80-90w or should i just use full synthetic or use half synthetic and half limited slip oil? and also does anyone know how much fluid this rearend takes? i didnt see the amount on the metal tags off the rearend.

 

ok i got the axle out i now have another question in my service manual it says: to remove the inner bearing retainer and the bearing from the axle shaft, split the retainer with a chisel, then remove it from the shaft press the bearing off the shaft...then it says installation is reversed.

my question is do i have to press on another retainer, if so how do i do that? and to reinstall the way i understand to do it is put the bearing and seal in the end of the rearend and then take a 2x4 and press them in then slide the axle through am i correct on this? hold on let me get pictures that will probably help.

here is the end of the axle shaft the bearing is shot.



edit: well i did some calling around and looks like i have to take it to the machine shop and have them press them off and then press them back on...... gay b/c i didnt want to have alot of money in this rearend but i just spent $100 on calipers, now probably 40 or 50$ on bearings and seals and then another probably 30$ or so to press the stuff on and off thats not even including the $200 i paid for the rearend. i should have just redid my 10 bolt, o well you live and learn i guess.

 

it's worth the $$$ to do it right though. it's better to do it now than have something seize up on you and get totally screwed

 

that is why i am doing it.... i dont half-*** anything i do... i just said i have so much money in this thing i should have just redid my ten bolt.

has anyone on here ever done wheel bearings in a 9 bolt or am i all alone...? i went to the parts store today and pulled all the rear bearings for an 88 camaro and none of them looked like the bearings i have on this 9 bolt axle. if anyone else has done this i would like to hear their input.

 

i have a 10 bolt so i've never done it on a 9 bolt....i do however really really really like your wheels!

 

thanks man i appreciate it.

so 2day ive been calling around talking to people about these bearings and no one knows what im talking about i tell them im working on a 9 bolt in a camaro and trying to explain what im doing with them and they are telling me im wrong and giving me information about the 10 bolt, no one around here knows what this damn rearend is lol, im going to take this axle down to the machine shop and have them bust off the retainer and press in new bearings and a new retainer i guess the only thing now is that the bearings i pulled at my parts store werent the same as the ones on this axle. i guess ill carry the axle around with me tomaro and show everyone what im talking about and see if they can get me the right bearings...

 

I'd help you out bro but to be honest, I took my car and 'new' 9 bolt rear end to a buddies shop and had him do it... I'm not experienced with setting back lash etc. so I just had them do the whole thing while I assisted and watched.

I can try answer a few q's;

Yes use the recommended gear oil (80 or 90 wt) and one bottle of the GM limited slip additive. (more if your adding a girdle which increases your fluid capacity) Now with that being said, people on these boards have told me you don't need the additive because the 9 bolt posi uses cones. Use your judgement on that, I added it to mine.


I don't know the exact amount, but I do know how to fill it. When you put your cover back on, there is a filler bolt about 2/3 of the way up the cover. Pull the bolt, and add the antislip additive. Then keep adding your rear end gear oil until your level with the bolt hole and fluid starts to dribble out. Then its full to the proper level.

You'll have to take it into a machine shop or a well equiped mechanics shop and have it pressed off, and a new one pressed back on.

Sorry to say, but I could only find these from the dealer, special order. bling bling $$, they aren't nicknamed the 'stealership' for nothing.

Now again take this with a grain of salt and use your judgement. I am not a mechanic, just a hobbist giving advice. Good luck.

 

when i pulled the plug out of this rearend the fluid was not up to that level i had to pull the entire cover to empty the fluid now like i said that one side was leaking so that might have been why.

i hope that is not the case with me having to get these from a dealer i REALLY REALLY dont want to do that i am out of school this week and was planning on putting this thing in, if i have to get them from a dealer that will not be the case, i was going to do both sides even though only one side is bad but i guess im just going to do the one with all the problems im running into, thanks for your help brisk i appreciate it, ill keep yall updated on my progress.

 

NAPA lists at least some of the bearings for the 9-bolt. If you haven't tried them yet, do so.

 

keep trying the aftermarket world. mine were inspected and didn't need replacement.

 

does anyone know the GM part number for these bearings? if you know the part number i can probably help out.

 

I checked my service manual.. nada on part numbers. Looks like you'd need the micro-fish to find that.

 

Differential Side Bearing & Race: 9442312
Wheel Bearing: 10033592

 

this is the bearing i bought today and took over to the machine shop where the axle is and he said he thinks it is the correct one, but the seal i took to him was wrong. do you know the part # on the seal? the part # on the seal i bought 2day was a 8660S that was at oreilly and it was the wrong one.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...criptionId=463

edit: i just looked up those part #'s through napa and the picture of it and this oreilly one i bought 2day look the same except like $20 cheaper through oreilly, im going to the machine shop early in the morning tomaro and making sure i have the right parts.

 

RH Wheel Bearing Seal: 10033594
LH Wheel Bearing Seal: 10033593

 

damn napa is soo expensive i dont see how they are in business, i work at oreilly and our prices are soo much cheaper than these parts im looking up. but that part # you just gave me for the right looks like the seal i just bought today and was the wrong one but thanks for the #'s they will help me a good bit tomaro morning when i get up and around hunting down these parts!

 

you never cease to amaze me Apeiron.. where'd you manage to fish out those part numbers?

 

 

^^lol well thanks for looking em up for me! really that helps me alot. whered you get that book i need one of those?

 

If I tell you, then everyone's going to want one.

 

And that would be important..... how??

Explain which thing you would rather have:

An expensive part that fits and that you can get; or a cheap part that doesn't fit or that doesn't exist? Which is better?

Sometimes things just cost what they cost. You wanna play, you gotta pay. 9-bolt parts in general are like that. NAPA, GM, or whoever. Somehow I doubt GM will cost you any less than NAPA. But maybe they'll HAVE it; and maybe IT'LL FIT; which is maybe a little higher priority on the decision tree than what it costs.

 

if you read my entire post you would have seen where i said that the picture on napa's site was almost identical to the one i just bought at oreilly for more than half the price, that is why i said they were so expensive if it would have been a hard to find part then yes i wouldnt mind paying that but not when i can get the same thing for much cheaper at another parts store.... anyway, i missed the part where your post had any relivence to this thread...

 

Did you go look at the part itself?

You can post stuff on the Internet, and complain about prices, and take offense when somebody points out that the rpice just is what it is and if you want it you gotta pay it, and look at pics of stuff, all day long. But sooner or later you just gotta get up outta your chair, get out there in meatspace, mingle with the flesh creatures, and look at the real thing.

The part you missed about "relevance" was evidently the part I quoted where I copied what you said. You say it yourself, it automatically becomes relevant to your post. As do the replies.

 

look man im not complaining about the prices.... i am still in high school and have lots of other stuff going on. if you look at my car you can see im not worried about spending 30$ on a bearing the point is when another place has the same thing for less why would you pay the rediculous amount thats all i said and i will leave it at that, i dont want my thread to turn into a mockery.

im off to the machine shop, the seal i ordered yesterday just came in so im going to go make sure it is the right one. and hopefully get this axle back today so i can put the rearend in tomaro!

 

Well if you do in fact find the parts, and it turns out they're the right ones, post the part #s and where you got them. I'm sure alot of the other people with 9-bolts will appreciate it. Parts of any kind for those things, at any price, aren't always easy to come up with.

 

The bearing is a Timken SET9, BCA A9 but I'd advise getting the Timken. Its a much better bearing.

You can remove the old bearing and retainer yourself, but there isnt much point and its not easy. The best way is cut the retainer with a die grinder (doesnt need to be all the way through, dont nick the axle) and put a chisel in the cut and smack it with a hammer and the retainer will pop loose. The bearing isnt press fit but its pretty tight but with a hammer and chisel you can get it off.

 

Differential Side Bearing & Race: 9442312 - $11.10
Wheel Bearing: 10033592 - $41.91

RH Wheel Bearing Seal: 10033594 - $12.16
LH Wheel Bearing Seal: 10033593 - $9.96

these prices are from www.gmpartsdirect.com this might help some.

these are all GM parts too.

 

lol thanks man but ya i got the seal today and it was the correct one. the part # is A9 on the wheel bearing race and retainer, and the seal part# was 710179. the wheel bearing was instock just about everywhere but absolutely no one had the seal!

but overall it looks like gmparts direct is the cheapest but i needed the parts and couldnt wait for them to process and then come in the mail. i will go to them next time considering their parts are probably better quallity than any of the parts stores around here. well idk if they charge shipping if they do its probably going to be more than the other places around here.

picture of the new bearing retainer and seal pressed on there.

 

LOL no problem. i was trying to lighten the mood a little bit in my previous post. things were getting a little outta control.