Originally Posted by paterra1

Do you know the part numbers for the rear disc brake parking brake cables that have the 9 bolt aussie rear?

Originally Posted by BLKIROCZ87

Just wanted to know if I can use Stock 4th gen caliper's and stock 4th gen rotors? would it work with this bracket? Thanks...

Originally Posted by JamesC

Since 89-97 calipers and rotors are pretty much the same, I wouldn't know why not.

JamesC

Originally Posted by ebmiller88

You have disc plates in your hands there. You have a stock drum rear and need the drum plates that look like this:



This will fix your problem. The disc and drum rearends have different center bores and a couple other different dimensions. We'll get you hooked up.

Ed

Originally Posted by concorde01

...are these still avalible?

Originally Posted by Wolfheart

EBMiller88, can you please send me a PM. I am interested in getting a kit going with you that I can purchase in the next month. Thank you!

Originally Posted by muttracing

please send me your prices and info too at muttracing@comcast.net

Originally Posted by scooter

Ed's Last Activity: 04-11-2011 09:54 AM. You won't be getting a reply any time soon. Go to his website http://flynbye.com/

Originally Posted by ebmiller88

First off, sorry to all those I have yet to get back to. I am trying to catch up with PMs and e-mail as best I can. Please be patient and I'll get back to you.

Now, as promised here's my thread on the hassle free rear disc conversion for drum rear cars. NO cutting or drilling or mods of any kind involved, just a couple of hours to do the swap. You'll need the brakes, basic hand tools, some penetrating oil, and that's about it. This swap is for 11.6"-12" rear PBR discs on virtually any drum rear F-body and I'm sure a few more cars out there, specifically S10s and B/G bodies with rear drums. I'll do my best to explain it all along the way.

Get the rear in the air and start by removing the wheels and all the outer drum brake hardware and such, and remove the e-brake cables from the connector above the driveshaft. You'll also need to drain the differential fluid and pull the center pin out of the carrier so you can get the axles out. Here's the new backing plate next to the mod test axle, a stock 10 bolt open drum rear:



Once all the drum brake stuff is off, loosen up the stock brake line as it goes into the wheel cylinder with a 12mm crowsfoot wrench. Soak it generously with penetrant before you start and it will come loose easily. You can pull the rear axle at this point and give the lube some time to work.



Use an awl or an ice pick to remove the clip that holds the wheel cylinder to the backing plate



Use a big breaker bar and a 21mm socket to remove the wheel cylinder bolt. It is ON THERE, it's a bear. Hold onto the other side of it with a large Crescent wrench or equivalent.



Once the wheel cylinder is off, remove the lower two bolts holding the plate on with a 10mm wrench/socket



Now you have the bare drum flange ready for the new plate.



Slide the new backing plate onto the flange and install the large upper bolt and two lower bolts in place. (One of mine broke off and is not seen in the pic). Reinstall the axle and cover plate now, and refill the diff with new gear oil. This would also be a great time to replace the axle seals and check the bearings.



Slide the new rotor on and bolt the caliper in place using the supplied bolts



View from the backside:



Top view. Rotor is slightly askew but is fine when tightened down right, I had the lug nuts loose.



All in all a very easy swap to disc brakes and keep your stock rearend gears and not have to pull the whole rearend. I will have plates for discs ranging in size from stock 11.6" to custom 13" two piece rotors I will be offering soon. Again, all this is bolt on stuff with no mods required.

You will also need to 1- modify and/or bend the stock drum axle brake lines to work with the new discs or 2- buy new disc axle brake lines which is what i recommend.

Another thing to note. There is the possibility that the axle flanges on some axles will not sit flush against the inner face of one type of rear rotor used with these brakes. They have a larger outer diameter than the rotor has in inside diameter. If this is the case, there is another rotor that will work with these brakes, used on early LT1 4th gens and I can tell you what part to get should you have an issue. I'll post a pic of that rotor later in the week.

Any questions, please e-mail me or PM me and I'll get back to you as soon as I can, sorry for any delays.

Ed

Originally Posted by BOTTLEDZ28

I have the following pictures posted in a separate thread but I figured I may get more exposure.and help, here.

I am in the middle of doing a drum/disc conversion on a 1991 car with a 10 bolt. I bought the Baer 13" rotors kit for the 93-97 Fbody as well as Eds hassle free backing plates for 13" rotors.

The backing plates do not work. I do not have enough clearance between the plate and the rotor to get the caliper bolted in. I do not know what the issue is here but maybe someone else can chime in with options for me. I am currently getting feedback from a couple other members in my other thread. Thank you to those members.


This is how close the rotor is to the backing plate. Lot less of a gap than whats in Eds pictures.

Attachment 316269


Attachment 316270





This is the caliper I am using. These are NOS calipers from a 1992 Camaro. These look slightly different than what Ed used in his pictures. Not sure if this is an issue between 3rd gen and 4th gen calipers and abutment brackets.
Attachment 316271

Originally Posted by TTOP350

I know this is a older post but I'm betting you have the wrong rotors on there. The rotor hat/offset is the problem.

Originally Posted by ebmiller88

First off, sorry to all those I have yet to get back to. I am trying to catch up with PMs and e-mail as best I can. Please be patient and I'll get back to you.

Now, as promised here's my thread on the hassle free rear disc conversion for drum rear cars. NO cutting or drilling or mods of any kind involved, just a couple of hours to do the swap. You'll need the brakes, basic hand tools, some penetrating oil, and that's about it. This swap is for 11.6"-12" rear PBR discs on virtually any drum rear F-body and I'm sure a few more cars out there, specifically S10s and B/G bodies with rear drums. I'll do my best to explain it all along the way.

Get the rear in the air and start by removing the wheels and all the outer drum brake hardware and such, and remove the e-brake cables from the connector above the driveshaft. You'll also need to drain the differential fluid and pull the center pin out of the carrier so you can get the axles out. Here's the new backing plate next to the mod test axle, a stock 10 bolt open drum rear:

Attachment 447467

Once all the drum brake stuff is off, loosen up the stock brake line as it goes into the wheel cylinder with a 12mm crowsfoot wrench. Soak it generously with penetrant before you start and it will come loose easily. You can pull the rear axle at this point and give the lube some time to work.

Attachment 447468

Use an awl or an ice pick to remove the clip that holds the wheel cylinder to the backing plate

Attachment 447469

Use a big breaker bar and a 21mm socket to remove the wheel cylinder bolt. It is ON THERE, it's a bear. Hold onto the other side of it with a large Crescent wrench or equivalent.

Attachment 447470

Once the wheel cylinder is off, remove the lower two bolts holding the plate on with a 10mm wrench/socket

Attachment 447471

Now you have the bare drum flange ready for the new plate.

Attachment 447472

Slide the new backing plate onto the flange and install the large upper bolt and two lower bolts in place. (One of mine broke off and is not seen in the pic). Reinstall the axle and cover plate now, and refill the diff with new gear oil. This would also be a great time to replace the axle seals and check the bearings.

Attachment 447473

Slide the new rotor on and bolt the caliper in place using the supplied bolts

Attachment 447474

View from the backside:

Attachment 447475

Top view. Rotor is slightly askew but is fine when tightened down right, I had the lug nuts loose.

Attachment 447476

All in all a very easy swap to disc brakes and keep your stock rearend gears and not have to pull the whole rearend. I will have plates for discs ranging in size from stock 11.6" to custom 13" two piece rotors I will be offering soon. Again, all this is bolt on stuff with no mods required.

You will also need to 1- modify and/or bend the stock drum axle brake lines to work with the new discs or 2- buy new disc axle brake lines which is what i recommend.

Another thing to note. There is the possibility that the axle flanges on some axles will not sit flush against the inner face of one type of rear rotor used with these brakes. They have a larger outer diameter than the rotor has in inside diameter. If this is the case, there is another rotor that will work with these brakes, used on early LT1 4th gens and I can tell you what part to get should you have an issue. I'll post a pic of that rotor later in the week.

Any questions, please e-mail me or PM me and I'll get back to you as soon as I can, sorry for any delays.

Ed

Originally Posted by IROCZman15

I actually spoke to Ed on the phone about two weeks ago since I am looking for replacement 12" rotors for my ebmiller kit.

Seems one of my rotors has developed an ever so slight warp to it, as I can hear it scuffing/slicing slightly. Searched online for the Raybestos 12" rotor in the kit and no luck. couldn't find it. sent Ed an mail and also left a voicemail. HE called me back and we chatted, and he was going to look for a suitable 12" rotor replacement. This was like right when the USA was getting into the corona virus hype, so I haven't heard back from him yet. perhaps I will, but perhaps not. in the event I don't, anyone have a recommendation or part number for an actual 12" DRILLED, SLOTTED, ZINC WASHED rotor ? for performance braking (drag, autoX, short course road course use)