What is the main reason people don't run braided brake line up front? It would be a lot easier to route and hide. It is a bit pricey but whatever, its not like you need 100 ft. Maybe 10-15, 20 max I would think to hide it all very well.

Anyone think it would be a bad idea to do this?


I am trying to find a way to hide my brake lines and line lock as well as possible. I really don't care about the price. Pretty sure total will cost me less than $300 or so. I want to have a dyno shop do new lines in the front all custom bent, I figure thats probably the ballpark amount that they are going to charge me.

stuff like this:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

over a longer distance the pedal will get squishy, I dont think a small piece here or there will harm things, my truck has short flex lines running of the abs box or something, as well as the ones at the wheels, and the pedal is fine. But using feet of the stuff all over the place is not a god idea.

You can bend the hard line like spaghetti and make it do pretty much anything you want it to do, and you cal always paint it black or something to hide it.

 

I've got hard lines for the main feeders, and then at each caliper i have it swapped over to braided with AN fittings. The AN fittings are the biggest/best reason to go braided along with the fact they dont expand like the oem rubber lines do....that is one of the biggest reasons to make the swap..retaining more psi on the piston since the line is'nt flexing-it's giving the piston all the line pressure it can instead of psi disappating due to rubber line flex.

it is expensive, the lines themselves are the cheap part, make sure you get the proper ends to fit your calipers and not hit anything...they have 90*, straight, banjo in different configurations at either end...i assumed too much on my inital purchase and had to take them back and get different lines. then you need copper washers to replace the old oem ones, along with line holders and what not...i want to say i spent about $200 to do the front and same for the rear, but definately a worth while investment, if nothing else to make things easier if you ever need to work

 

Well the thing is, I have all braided lines to my calipers already. I just am going to a dyno tune place for a tune and I want them to re-do my front lines so they are hidden and more organized. I was just thinking that if I had all braided up there, I could do it myself. I mean, I know it will be cheaper and might be better hidden. I dunno, I am just kinda afraid to do my own hard line since I really really don't want my flares to be wrong. I have a flare kit and so on, but I find it hard to think I can route all the hose the right way from scratch. Plus I am totally lost when it comes to what fittings I need. I get so lost so damn fast with that ****. I guess all I really need to know is what comes off the MC and thats it. But then I think to myself, screw it, have them deal with moving my adj. prop. valve around and line lock, and bending new lines while making all good flares.

Anyways, thanks for the insight. Looks like I will just have the shop do new hard lines for me and call it a day. As well as the dyno tune.

Hey IHI, I know you are big into drag racing your car, as your sig shows. How fast do you think my car could run the 1/4 mile?

Not sure if you know what is in my car, but after the tune it should have 400 RWHP and a 200 shot on top of that. The T-56 and 4.11s. maybe wiegh 3200.

Just ballpark it, like what second range? I have never been, but I plan on maybe going once before the winter comes. I know I will not be super fast, but will I maybe be in the 12s, 11s?? With drag radials of course.

 

I don't see any reason to replace the hardlines with stainless steel.

 

You mean braided? Or hard SS?

Hard SS is nice cuz it last forever and stays looking shinny.

I was considering going braided so that I wouldn't have to bend and flare line and fittings. Braided is all pressed and screwed on. I just feel more comfortable with that kind of assembly since I had to do dozens with I was making my fuel system and was using the twist-lok fittings.

Thats all. I could also more easily hide the line since it would be flexible. It was just an idea. I guess not a good one, and I will just have an experienced installer do the lines. I saved some $ by installing the C5 Z06 brakes myself already, so it shouldn't be too much labor.

 

I think you should be able to run 12's on motor and 11's on juice, hard to say without knowing all the specs on everything you have and your tracks DA...my car in denver for example would be about 1 second slower give or take due to altitude.

definately hard line long runs, eventually the rubber inside the hoses will deteriorate, even though they're teflon coated.
I cant remember where i read it, but there was an article about not using braided brakes lines over 4' long...cant remember exact reasoning, but it made sense and since brakes are kind of essential, i figured i'd keep had lines for the long runs.

I've had good luck with double flaring over the years, but i will tell you, that $19 autozone flare tool is'nt the one that going to make life easy...this is one of those tools you need to spend some bucks for a quality unit, other wise your gonna hate life...try to find a Mac, Snap On, Matco dealer and buy one off the truck before you dig in...other than that, dont be intimidated, try to look at it as a fun thing, trying to bend the lines to keep them high and tight as best you can..make a game out of it, otherwise you'll get stressed LOL. I know i burned up a few long section by forgetting to install the nut prior to flaring, bending something to close/far away from where it was supposed to be.....it is'nt bad, but the flaring tool will make or break the job if you decide to do it yourself.

 

i actually bought a cheap bubble flaring tool off ebay for like 15$ and it works like a dream, kinda surprising