I was wondering if there was a way to go around the adj. prop valve route. I'm installing a 98 LS1 rear end with disc and was wondering if there was a way to use stock parts to make it work, without using the prop valve.

I'd like the engine bay to look as stock as possible. Could I use 93+ MC? or should I just suck it up and use the prop valve, i'm sure i'll be able to dial in the bias a lot better.

I actually am going to revise this, I am going to run an adj. prop valve, but which is the proper way to install it? 2 posts below, you can see that 2 members have installed it two different ways. I currently have the stock disc/drum valve, so should I just install the SSBC adj. valve between the master and stock valve and call it a day? or does/should it completely bypass the stock valve completely?

 

I think you can use a 4th gen MC and a 91-92 1LE prop valve.

 

I think I am going to run a prop valve, seems to be the best option and I can make lines easily, so it seems to be the simplest solution. I only have one question on how it should actually be installed. I currently have the disc/drum prop valve(1985). Do I just install the prop valve between the master and the stock valve, or Do I remove the stock set up and run lines directly to the front and to the rear through the SSBC valve? I have seen it installed both ways in threads here...here are the pictures:

 

subscribing, i want to know too.

 

Personally... Ide ditch the prop. valve and just run the adjustable one. Run the front calipers straight from the master. A line, to a "tee", then to each caliper.

For the rears, go from the master, to the adjustable valve, then back to the rear brake hose...etc etc.

From what Ive always understood, the prop valve acts like a distribution block for the front brakes. Doesnt really change pressure. The rear brakes have that little spring loaded valve in the front to regulate their function.

So full power to the fronts is fine. You regulate those with your foot. haha. Dial the rears back with the prop. valve.

And yes...the newer master cylinder will work. I like the newer one, if for nothing else, beacuse of the fill cap. haha. Better than pulling that stupid cover off, and having to make sure its snapped down all the way.

If you can flare brake lines, and you bend carefully, you can make it look nice and neat.

J.

here are some crappy pics of mine. These are still in the work stages so its alittle cleaner looking now.

 

I got this figured out from my local fbody forum - vancouverfbody.com

What I need to do is just like the post above, or if you dont want to run new lines to the front/rear you can leave your set up just like stock, but remove the spring and plunger from the stock prop valve for the the rear brakes. then install an adj. prop valve on the rear brake line any where you like.

Thats the quickets and easiest way to do it and leaves your set up looking very stock. (see the first picture in my original post - the spring and plunger are removed from the stock valve system and an adj. prop valve has been installed between the master and the stock valve.)

Or you can do like above and really clean up all the brake lines and route them anywhere you want, but thats going to take more time.

 

Yup... Sounds like you got a plan.

I did what I did because I was upgrading to LS1 front and rear brakes at the same time as I was doing my LS1 swap. So I pretty much started from scratch. And instead of trying to find fittings, and flare a bunch of lines, I got a 4th gen ABS delete/line lock kit from SJM, and made it all fit. All I really had to do was run a new 1/4" line from the front to the back. The rest I just sort of tweaked til it worked.

On a side note... I LOVE my brakes. Easily the best upgrade to my car next to the LS1/6speed/12bolt. The car stops VERY VERY strongly, and I havent been able to make those brakes sweat yet. I played with that valve alittle..and have it dialed in to what I estimate to be about 60/40 brake bias. I love it. Rears will lock after the fronts lock and I push harder... So the car behaves great during panic stops. No surprises.

J.

 

damn i wish you guys had posted this a month ago.



will that new style mc pretty much swap even up for the old style? same line orientation, fitting sizes, etc?

 

A 4th gen MC is a direct bolt on. I've heard that if you originally had drums, you can just stick with the stock 3rd gen and not have any issues.

 

i have 4 wheel disk, so i think this would help me. can anyone hook me up with a part # or exactly what vehicle/specs had the best one so i can see about ordering one? u guys rock

 

the AC Delco number for the 4th gen MC is 18M971 (at least in canada)

 

sweet.. thanks