Hi guys,

Ive been replacing my hoses for earls stainless ones but in the process broke my rear brake pipe, so ive had a new one made, everything is back on and the whole system needs bled.

Ive been looking at my rear drums and wondering how the hell you undo the nut at the bleed nipple because its recessed right into the drum, ive got a proper service manual for 87 (good ol' ebay) and it says 'use the correct size box end wrench, part number J-28434' but i cant find a key of special tools for the brakes ! so ive got no idea what this tool is, and im no further forward with bleeding the drums.

Any help as to how to get the air out of them will be greatly appreciated. I have been told i can just undo the pipe where it meets the flexi hose, but it wont get all of the air out, i really wanted it done properly.

 

I was wondering where to get this tool as well?? I am now in need of bleeding my brake system and cannot get a tool or socket into the recessed area. Anyone know where I can get a tool to fit into this area? Also has anyone fit an "extension" onto this recessed area in order to make it easier for future bleeds?

Fivestar

 

a long 1/4" drive socket, of the proper size of course, fits just fine. thats what i used when i still have the drums.

problem is, you cant tighten the screw with the socket with the bleeder hose installed, so that takes some thought. i usually tightened the bleeder screw with the hose, then used the socket to finish the job. worked fine, but the proper tool would be best

 

I picked up one of these a while back for around $5 - $10.

 

I was able to find that the tool is made for bleeding the brakes. It is made for Nissan/Infinity and GM vehicles. It is made by Kent-Moore tools J-28434 and is a 5/16 'socket' with a hose attached and an arm welded to the socket. It is sold by HandsonTools, I have yet to buy it as Hands on Tools is closed today..
I also found that an 8mm socket fits but as we all know the regular socket does not allow tightening after bleeding. Looks like I will check with the local dealerships to see if they carry the tool otherwise I will order one.

Fivestar

 

You don't need to, as long as someone is on the pedal you won't get any air in the system. Just loosen the screw, have someone put the pedal to the floor, tighten the screw. Repeat as necessary. That is, of course, if you don't have the correct wrench.

 

maybe, but i have NEVER had any luck bleeding with the brake pedal. Never works. I use a vacuum bleeder and pull the fluid through. works faster and never had issues.

 

Well I could not get that tool from Hands on Tools as they do not carry it any longer and I called a couple of the local dealerships and they do not sell tools either-they suggested contacting snap on or mac tools. the cost for the tolls would be around $90! So I just picked up a 8mm 3/8 socket and I had a 5/8 wrench-after a little grinding to fit the socket into the wrench head I took it over to a local welding guy and had it welded together and I can fit a flexible hose into the end and loosen and bleed then tighten...Works great and for less than $3 bucks.

Fivestar

 

Has anyone found a good solution about this matter?
How do you guys with drum brakes bleed rear brakes?

 

I eventually just went with the easy option of getting my dad to press the brake pedal while i undone the bleed nipple to get the air out, and just repeated it until only fluid was coming out.

My car stops pretty damn good these days so id call it a success

 

I just good old gravity bled mine,put a pan under each wheel and let it drip for a few hours while I did other things,haven't touched them since.

 

So you are using a clear tube?
If so, while the pedal is pressed, you unplug the tube and tighten the nipple?

 

Easiest way is gravity bleed. Going to have to do my rear brakes AGAIN once I get the right flare adapter for the tool kit (like an idiot, I bought metric and it's too late to send it back ).

Take the bleeder screw completely out of the wheel cylinder (easiest if new cylinder OR it's been done before), clean up the threads so the thing spins easily with just the hose, and put it back in. You're going to have to wait for the fluid to come out of the cylinder anyways, so why not? Anyways, once the fluid comes out of the hose, twist the hose, closing the bleeder. Take the hose off and use the socket to tighten the bleeder so it won't come loose again, and move on to the next one.

 

There are two J-28434's on ebay right now.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=J-2843...d=432679356844

 

Made my own using a cheap Chinese 6 point socket, an old offset wrench that came from who knows where and my mig welder. I dressed the weld with a grinder to make it look a little nicer. Works like a charm.