My rear line from the prop valve to the rear spliter is coroded and looks ready to bust (already happened to me on another car).

I need to replace that line but I am afraid of removing the line and having air enter the prop valve and MC when I do this. Any tips on preventing this?

Thanks.

 

make sure the master never runs out of fluid. If you can, cut the line off the master, dont unscrew it, then cap it with something or tape the hell out of it to prevent/slow down the fluid loss. the run the new line, connect everything and then remove the old fitting and swap it over. The again when you bleed the new system, make sure the reservoir never runs dry and you should be golden

 

Should I buy a fitted pre-bent line or take the old one out and bend a replacement line myself?
Is it feasible to bend one to match?

 

you CAN make your own, but it will look it. the biggest issue is getting the right size line and flaring it. ISO bubble flare, kind of a pain to make. Plus if your old fittings are shot, good luck finding new ones. I would just get a new prebent line, they dont cost all that much and you can get them in stainless so they never rust again

try finelines

 

how do you install a prebent line with out taking everything off the shell or bending the line to fit?

iso bubble flares easier to make then inverted double flares. The iso requires one less step. You can make a flare that will work with a iso flare with a regular double flare tool. You do every thing the same, but you just dont do the last step of pushing the flare in with the 45degree cone. Is it exactly the same no, will it work leak free, yes.
Or you could buy a iso flareing tool(harbour freight) and metric line (carquest ). These days they are not that hard to find.

Carquest also sells adapter fittings.


And to answer the original post. Fill up the master as full as you can get it, and then put the cap back on and leave it. It wont drain as fast. Make sure you keep the master full. It realy doesnt matter that much, cause your going to have to do a normal full bleed on the rear brakes anyways.

 

If you leave the cap on it won't let air into the MC from the top, and for the most part will hold the fluid in the lines.

 

I already have an ISO bubble flare tool that I used when I replaced the same line on another car. I just had some brake line and bent it myself. It was crude but it worked as I didn't care how 'clean' it looked on that car. Not sure how I kept air out of the MC on that car. Just lucky I guess.

I have been searching and they have brake line bending tools for $30. I may go this route since you never know when you need to bend more lines.

 

If you are careful and don't need to make a real tight bend you can use sockets to bend the lines around. You just have to go slow and be careful.
That is how I have been doing it for several years.