How are you guys getting a double-flare out of the about-1/4" metric line? It slides through the tool everytime in the 1/4" slot. I'm installing an adjustable prop valve.

 

first off its a bubble flare, a double flare is different, make sure you have the right one. Secondly, its a 6mm line, a hair smaller. thats why its slipping. What prop valve did you go with and how are you adapting to it? Im looking to do the same thing.

 

Going with a wilwood. The wilwood is 1/8" and comes with 1/8" to 3/16" adapters. I went to NAPA and bought 1/8" to 1/4" adaptors and am going to use those adapters instead. Cutting the ends of the stock lines and flaring them for 1/4".

For the fronts, I'm using a 3/16" "T", that I also got from NAPA. Then cutting off the ends and flaring them to work with 3/16" fittings. I can get the SAE flare tool to work on these smaller metric lines (approx 3/16"). Just need a new mini-tube cutter to cut it perfectly.

I can't find a metric flare tool and I think thats what I need.

The stock master cylinder uses a bubble flare but I think downward from that its a double flare to get this other stuff in. I don't know, I'm going off of this: https://www.thirdgen.org/propvalve

 

after 82? its all bubble flare on the whole car. I guess it depends on what flare the adj prop valve requires, its probably double flare come to think of it. I lucked out and actually found a metric bubble flare T fitting for the front lines. No cutting required

 

you'll have to summon all the strebgth you can muster and tighten the clamp till it feels like it's going to break. if you remove too much material from the line by slipping the tool down it repeatedly you can always go get an extra set of hard lines from the junk yard. cost me $8 for the full rear hard lines.... you should also practice on some lines from the j/y before you cut yours too much. some people suggest practicing on new line stock from Autozone but the new lines are soft and alot easier to flare than your 22 year old stock lines so your flaring technique will need to be changed.

 

i actually broke one of mine doing that

 

I know the feeling. I broke 2 of the rental ones from Autozone.

 

Thats sucks, I was hoping you guys had a metric tool. Maybe I'll try the rentals, the rental tools usually seem better than what you can buy off the shelves.

 

You can try wrapping the line in remnants of an aluminum can and hope it doesnt slip.

 

Not necessarily. I broke 2 of the rental tools from Autozone while flaring replacement lines on my 92.

 

I was at Autozone yesterday to rent their flaring tool and the guy asked if I wanted a metric or standard set. I guess they rent out both. Give them a shot. $25.

 

Autozone has both the metric and SAE sizes. Sometimes you can get away with using the metric one, because its alittle smaller. What I usually have to do, after a certain amount of flaring, is run a tap down through the tool with it closed. That usually sharpens it up some to give it more grip.

Speaking of it being closed...I break all of mine. On purpose usually. Those little pins are cheap soft crap metal. I get some little bolts and nuts and put them in instead. They will bend/break eventually, but hold up to a lot more abuse.

I couldnt wait to replace all my lines with regular SAE line. I used double flares and regular old line everywhere I could.

J.

 

Autozone sell and/or rent the metric sizes?

 

Autozone should rent a metric flaring tool; I don't think I've ever seen the tool for sale there.

 

I had the same problem trying to bubble flare a line. It kept pushing through i had tried 3 different flare sets. My car was off the road so i took the whole line to a shop and had them flare the line with a snap-on set. $20 tip for the mechanic which took him less then 3 minutes he was happy and so was i. Cheap tools don't work worth a damn sometimes.

 

i've been using a standard set from napa. life time waranty and you just need to tighten it in a desk vice to clamp it enough to keep it tight. Althought it does slip from time to time, and i have broken one set in the past (it was the cheap $25 kit instead of the $50 kit that i have now). Otherwise try autozone. Ask them for the rental, and if they have it...see if they can order you one so that you can have your own kit. Usually the guys behind the counter will get you the stuff you want, and if the stores can get it, they should be able to find you one for yourself.

 

Any alternatives to double-flaring the lines?

I've tried the metric flare tool set. I've also tried using a metric flare tool to start flaring then use a SAE tool to get to finish the flare. It didn't leak until I bolted up the brakes and tried to bleed them. Barely leaking though. Any alternatives? I don't care if its permanent either, like welded or something like that.

 

You could just keep the rental, the rental fee is the cost of the tool, and you have 90 days to return it, or it's yours. The parts guy at the Auto Zone here said that alot of people do that so they have the nice case to keep the kit in instead of the blister pack the ones they sell are in.

 

When this happens it is best to back off the flare nut and re-tighten. Many times that fixes the leak. I do this as a matter of fact anymore during the installation. Should also use a light coat of brake fluid on the flare (inside and out) along with the nut to help with tightening. And it isn't unusual to tighten it to the point where you think the flare wrench is going to break. Unless it is into aluminum, then need to be careful to not strip it out.

RBob.

 

I guess I could just add it here since I didnt see the reply to my question yet.

When you cut the tubing, make sure its square to the line. File it if you have to.
When using the tool for the first part of the double flare, make sure it stays square to the line. Also keep in mind you dont have to smash it all the way down to the block holding the line in place.
When using the tool for the second part of the double flare absolutely do not overtighten it. This almost always results in a line split. Tighten it down until it folds the end down and has somewhat of the seat it needs. Let the connection on the car do the rest.

In any case, keep everything as square and centered as possible. Force the tool around if you have to, to get it that way. Most of them while doing the flaring will try to lean over to one side, dont let that happen. When its done, the flare should be fairly close to equal distance from the edge of the flare to the side of the tubing. With practice you can get that to happen every time.

 

Really good advice guys. I thank you. I'll give it another try.

 

Cheap tools don't work, period. Spend the $$ on the right equipment and flare away. I wasted a day installing a line-lock on my rag, and the POS flare tool from vato-zone couldn't cut it. Borrowed a "real" flare tooling kit from a guy at work, instant success.

 

Discovered a little trick to cut the line perfectly square. Flip over the tool that has the holes in it and put the line in so it comes out the side that doesn't have the countersunk holes. Then have the line stick out just far enough so that you can run a file over and the file is parallel to the surface of the tool. Just make the tool tight enough to hold the line in place. The file won't file away the tool but will file the line.