I've read in various places that if the master runs dry while bleeding, you must bleed the master, but I've also read that you must simply start the process all over again. Any insight?

JamesC

 

I've read and experienced that if you run it dry on accident, it is impossible to get ALL of the air out of the MC unless you pressure bleed it. If you're using the pump method, vacuum, or gravity, the air will stay trapped in there due to its angle. Air likes to rise in fluid and you will only be able to get air out of the lines with rebleeding. I just bench bled my MC the other day - took about 30 min with removal and reinstallation. It could probably be done even quicker.

 

I was going to post a similar question, since only the front brake side of my MC went dry, wasn't sure if I needed to bench bleed both halfs, but for the minimal time, might as well. Just PRAYING I don't twist a line/round a nut...

 

I've bled mine before with the rear wheels on ramps and the master loose so it would tilt to level and was successful. On another occasion I had to completely remove the MC to bench bleed it. I'd try the tilt method first, the only problem with it is you can't depress the plunger very easily with it disconnected, but still too close, to the booster.

 

Not exactly sure you can bench bleed just one half of the MC - you need to fill the whole thing with fluid and the plunger is going to open both the front and the rear lines. You can try it with the MC still on the car as mentioned, but removing it is really not too terrible. Hit up the lines and fittings with some PB Blaster or equivalent, go grab a drink/lunch, and when you return, the lines should be fairly easy to remove. Hope this helps.

 

yeah after reading further i think i was being paranoid. They shouldn't be too rusty, and bench bleeding seems very easy, so should be no sweat.