Ok Ive searched this to no end! I have swapped to the manual master, pedal relocated and is hard as a rock!!!! Im going to swap to the smaller bore and hope it helps. I want to re do the lines soo... how does it work?

Do both the front and rear of the master provide the same pressure/ volume? will i need a prop valve? If i do do i need a dual in out or single on one side? If the drums outback are extended all the way could this be not allowing the calipers to compress when trying to stop?

 

I know after my swap to manual brakes with a '68 vette master cylinder I wasn't a fan, but have grown used to how they are along with the manual steering. Although stiff, I still can push my pedal to the floor if I push hard enough. I've been using the stock proportioning valve, but it'd probably be better to use an adjustable one on the rear line and just a splitter for the fronts. I believe I have my pushrod connected to the pedal 2" away from the pedal pivot measured center to center. Usually the bigger line/fitting on the master cylinder goes to the rear brakes, just in case that got mixed up. I know if you cap the rear line that it will basically limit down how much the fronts can grab, but as long as fluid is going into wheel cylinders/calipers that shouldn't be an issue.