pulls to the left
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Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 800
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From: Temple City, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: V8 305 TBI
Transmission: W/C T5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
pulls to the left
'90 RS 305, disc fronts, drum rears
It pulls to the left when I brake sometimes, what's causing this? It feels really dangerous driving because the front right tire is low so it pulls to the left while driving, but when I brake it pulls to the left so naturally I correct the wheel to the right while I'm braking but when I release the brake it goes back to the low tire pressure and pulls to the left and causes the car to veer off the right dangerously.
Caliper issue?
Thanks alot for the help guys
It pulls to the left when I brake sometimes, what's causing this? It feels really dangerous driving because the front right tire is low so it pulls to the left while driving, but when I brake it pulls to the left so naturally I correct the wheel to the right while I'm braking but when I release the brake it goes back to the low tire pressure and pulls to the left and causes the car to veer off the right dangerously.
Caliper issue?
Thanks alot for the help guys
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iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
From: Temple City, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: V8 305 TBI
Transmission: W/C T5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: pulls to the left
Alright, I read your post, thanks alot ed, but you mentioned bleeding the brakes, I thought bleeding the brakes was the action of forcing the old fluid out by pushing the caliper piston in, what comes after that?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Re: pulls to the left
Pushing the piston in simply forces the old fluid back up into the lines and reservoir and keeps the old fluid in. Bleeding is the process of removing the old fluid and any air inleakage from the system. Here's a simple how-to found online:
1. Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
2. Using a turkey baster, suck out as much of the old dark inky fluid as you can.
3. Clean any sediment out of the reservoir with a clean, lint-free rag. (Do not spill any brake fluid on any painted surfaces, it will remove the paint immediately.)
4. Fill the master cylinder with clean brake fluid.
5. Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Pump the brake pedal several times (15 or more).
7. Using a box wrench that fits the bleeder bolt, loosen the bleeder valves, but leave them closed. (A little penetrating oil drizzled on the bolts the day before will help to loosen them).
8. Using a piece of clear plastic tubing (aquarium tubing works fine), push one end of the tube over the brake bleeder bolt.
9. Put the other end of the tube into a small, clear bottle with an inch or two of clean brake fluid in it. (This will keep air from being sucked back into the brake cylinder.)
10. Put a piece of 1 x 4 lumber or some other "spacer" under the brake pedal to prevent the pedal from traveling too close to the floor.
11. Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
12. Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid.
13. Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
14. Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and slowly depresses the brake pedal with an even force and hold it down. The helper should shout "down" when the pedal is down as far as it will go.
15. Starting with the rear passenger wheel (back right for righthand drive cars), turn the bleeder bolt to the left one quarter-turn. Old fluid and air will go down the tubing into the bottle. When the fluid stops, close the bleeder valve.
16. Shout "up" to your helper, who at this point should remove his foot from the pedal allowing it to move up.
17. Repeat this process until new, clear fluid comes from the bleeder tube. (After every five (5) times the brake pedal is depressed, top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid. Never let the reservoir get too low, or air will be sucked into the master cylinder.)
18. Tighten the bleeder bolt.
19. Repeat steps 14 to 18 on the left rear wheel.
20. Repeat steps 14 to 18 on the right front wheel.
21. Repeat steps 14 to 18 on the left front wheel.
1. Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
2. Using a turkey baster, suck out as much of the old dark inky fluid as you can.
3. Clean any sediment out of the reservoir with a clean, lint-free rag. (Do not spill any brake fluid on any painted surfaces, it will remove the paint immediately.)
4. Fill the master cylinder with clean brake fluid.
5. Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Pump the brake pedal several times (15 or more).
7. Using a box wrench that fits the bleeder bolt, loosen the bleeder valves, but leave them closed. (A little penetrating oil drizzled on the bolts the day before will help to loosen them).
8. Using a piece of clear plastic tubing (aquarium tubing works fine), push one end of the tube over the brake bleeder bolt.
9. Put the other end of the tube into a small, clear bottle with an inch or two of clean brake fluid in it. (This will keep air from being sucked back into the brake cylinder.)
10. Put a piece of 1 x 4 lumber or some other "spacer" under the brake pedal to prevent the pedal from traveling too close to the floor.
11. Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
12. Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid.
13. Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
14. Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and slowly depresses the brake pedal with an even force and hold it down. The helper should shout "down" when the pedal is down as far as it will go.
15. Starting with the rear passenger wheel (back right for righthand drive cars), turn the bleeder bolt to the left one quarter-turn. Old fluid and air will go down the tubing into the bottle. When the fluid stops, close the bleeder valve.
16. Shout "up" to your helper, who at this point should remove his foot from the pedal allowing it to move up.
17. Repeat this process until new, clear fluid comes from the bleeder tube. (After every five (5) times the brake pedal is depressed, top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid. Never let the reservoir get too low, or air will be sucked into the master cylinder.)
18. Tighten the bleeder bolt.
19. Repeat steps 14 to 18 on the left rear wheel.
20. Repeat steps 14 to 18 on the right front wheel.
21. Repeat steps 14 to 18 on the left front wheel.
Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
From: Anchorage, Ak
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 5.0 TBI
Transmission: W/C T5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi
Re: pulls to the left
Also check out your rubber flex lines going to the calipers. It is common for the rubber to seperate iside the hose, and cause a pull to either side.
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