I have had some spongy brakes for a while now and I am going to bleed the brakes.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
This is the tool I am thinking of getting to do the work, since it needs to be a one person job. Now I am just curious to know what is the best way to use this product. I know it is similar to the mityvac but wanted one that was a little better quality. In the instructions for this product, it states, that after you have everything hooked up you crack open up the bleeder valve before pumping up the vacuum to just pull the air and fluid out. I have also searched on here and others pump up the vacuum first to get some pressure built up then crack open the bleeder screw to cause a suction to pull the air and fluid out.

For those that have more experience in bleeding brakes with this type of device, what is the better way to use it, the way the instructions say, or the way others do it on here. Just looking for some info. Any help from anyone is greatly appreciated.

 

IMO Don't waste your money.

 

It's a piece o junk - don't waste your money.

For a bleed job, you need a person (any person with at least one leg will do - your mom, your sister, the neighbor - anyone), a mason jar, 2ft of clear tubing that fit the bleeder valves, and a fresh QUART of brake fluid.

1) Cut hole in mason jar lid with pocketknife the size of the tubing.
2) Fill mason jar 2/3 with fluid, insert hose into lid, screw on lid so that hose end is down in the brake fluid.
3) Attach other end of hose to bleeder valve on pass rear.
4) Take cover off resevoir, make sure it's full - wrap rag around base of resevoir, gently lay resevoir lid back on top (don't snap it on).
5) Get that one-legged friend to pump up brakes SLOWLY 3-4 times, then hold SLIGHT pressure on pedal. Instruct them to GENTLY press pedal down as pressure allows, but not all way to floor.
6) YOU get under wheel, loosen bleeder valve SLOWLY to allow some fluid/air out - but NOT FAST, and NOT ALOT.
7) Tighten bleeder valve.
8) Repeat 5-7
9) Check fluid level in resevoir again.
10) Repeat 5-9
11) Do this 10 times for each wheel, starting with pass rear, then driver rear, then pass front, then driver front
12) Then, do it again - all 4 wheels, all over again - making sure to check resevior level after every 2 bleeds.

The whole process should take 40-60 minutes - any less time spent and you didn't do it enough. It's tedious, and exhausting, but it works everytime. Get all the fancy tools you want - the only way to get it right is to just do it right - meticulously, and carefully. Just make sure the 'person' helping understands very slight pressure, and not enough to make the pedal go to the floor. In the event they do go to the floor, the hose end in the brake fluid will not allow any air back into the system - instead it'll suck up brake fluid. You just have to keep doing it and doing it until the air gets out - that's why I said 10 times per wheel, and then repeat. I've tried every other way - nothing else works like persistence.

 

Frankly you don't need all of that. If you work on your cars by yourself a lot like I do, you would like the Motive Products Power bleeder. Its super simple to use. You put a 2 quarts of brake fluid in it's tank, take off your master cylinder lid, attach the motive lid, pump up the pressure to 10-12 psi. Then start at your passenger rear bleeder, allowing it to bleed. Then driver rear, passenger front, and then driver front. Once the fluid coming from your caliper changes from dingy black fluid to semi transparent clean fluid, you can tighten down your bleeder and switch to the next axle. Check it out at http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive-Product...0105/10002/-1#

 

I read somewhere that places like Advance and AutoZone will loan those things to you (w/ a deposit of coarse). Wouldn't hurt to try that instead of buying one, if it doesn't work you won't be out of any money.

 

I've worked on cars alone my whole life. I like to call this the i.v. of brake fluid theory it is a 100% way to bleed brakes.

you must have the car up on stands, so it's safe and you have room to work.

1. start from the rear pass side. then left rear, then pass front, and then drv front
2. have your bleeder screws clean and easy to turn never open more then 3/4 turn
3. use a fitting wrench
4. set up a container, with a hole in the top, stick the tube in it. fill the bottom with fluid until the end of the tubing is submersed.
5. Hang your bottle/container 2 feet higher then the fender-wheel--away from the paint- like an i.v. so you can see it from the driver's seat. this may require 4-5 feet of clear tubing.
6. pump brakes slowly, watch the fluid push it's way up to the bottle, and release. wait for the air bubbles to stop
7. Keep the cover on the brake reservoir, unless you're adding fluid.
8. When the line is solid-no bubbles and you have about 2 feet of vacuum, get out and tighten your bleeder screw.

I have done it many ways, this is the easiest. wish I would have thought of the i.v. stand long ago.

 

my master cylinder bubbles up when i push the pedal and has no pressure hence no breaks will a simple bleeding job fix or.... i already replaced master cylinder