First of all thanks to all those you've provided info/links to the various sites and threads detailing the big brake conversions.
While originally contemplating the 1LE conversion on my 87 Coupe, I've had a change of heart and decided to go the LS1 route. Bigger is better yes?
At this point I've purchased servicable calipers and abutment brackets from the auto wreckers ($90). Ed Miller at Flynbye has shipped my conversion brackets. ($75).(Yes he can be reached!). Spindle mod info courtesy of James C and LukeSkaff.com.(free). I know more than a few millwright/ machinists that will convert my OEM rotors into hubs. ($?)
All that's left is assembly.
As an alternative, I even managed to find C5 calipers on line for $200 (front and rear). If I can get ahold of the seller I may jump to the C5 conversion as it takes the same abutment brackets.

 

Thats awsome dude good luck with everything and make sure to take a bunch of pics.

Tony.

 

nooooooooooooooooo,ask around,ask eb.. the c5 caliper set up needs a c5 abuttment bracket. your ls1 bracket wont work. the calipers are techincially the same but the brackets arent. if you want the c5 brakes on front keep your ls1 calipers and get the c5 abutments. the only diff between calipers are the ribs on the top. ls1 only go half way c5 goes all the way across. its for strength but you got a street car,youll never know the diff or need the extra strength. while bigger is always better for a street car thre diff between ls1 and c5 brakes would be nimial depending on how much $$ you have in ls1 parts. the only parts you can reuse are the line.calipers and hubs. i think even the pads are a tad diff...ask eb

side note on rear,rears do 30-40%braking tops!!!!!!! therefore huge rears are not required. if you want bigger brakes front and rear id look into the ls1 kit. if you get a boneyeard set up or ebay with backing plates,rotors sercivable calipers its a direct bolt on to your rear.no brackets,welding,cutting and it comes with a neat internal ebrake sysytem and all parts can be had at gm autiozone..anywhere.. only thing you need are the e brake cable which eb finallyyyyyyyyyyyyy sells,.

 

From what I've read, the LS1 and C5 calipers are interchangable in that a C5 caliper will fit in a LS1 abutment bracket. The C5 bracket is different from the LS bracket in that it has different mounting holes where it attaches to the spindle.
You may be familiar with this article.

http://www.lukeskaff.com/car/brakes/faq.html

It would be a shame to pass up on a full set of C5's going cheap. Perhaps another call to Ed Miller IS in order.

 

need to be more specific."from what" covers everythign from tiger woods' over usd ***** to lay leno forcing conan out.

 

Typo. Previous post has been edited. (Stupid fingers)

 

No matter which way you go you will be very happy. I went the c5 way. Some people dont like the c5 because they say corvette and weigh a little more. I have done several of these for local guys, one thing I have found is make sure when the hub is cut the front lip is no more than 5.89" wide. The inside of the rotors (after market) can be smaller than stock c5 rotors. The second one I did I gave the guy stock(c5) rotor so he could make sure they fit and he did. The person I was doing it for brought me a new set of D/S/Z rotors and they did not fit the hub right, but factory did. Had to have the hubs recut. I now have the hub cut to smaller size and never had problem again. Good luck, enjoy the new brakes.

 

Thanks for that. I'll have the rotors when I head to the machine shop.
As far a C5 vs LS1 calipers go, looks like my chance to pick up an inexpensive full set of C5's fell through so I'm going with the LS (at least for now ).
Although this swap is well documented both here at thirdgen.org and other sites, I'll post a few pics as I progress. Maybe someone will get something out of it. I'm a few weeks away from starting the mods as I should have all the components gathered by then.

 

freindly reminder youll need 16" or bigger wheels for the ls,17 for the c5......i dont kniow why guy want the 1le set up anymore. the mods are pretty much the same but the 1le parts are harder to find and more costly. check with eb about the abuttments,he told me i needed some for my swap ..not saying hes god but i think hed rather build a set of brakes than make love..i think he pisses brake fluid.

 

Funny you should say that about the 1LE's. I was heading for the 1LE mod when a racing friend made the same comment you did. So LS1 it is.
I have a full 1LE rear set up now so I may stay with that until the right parts come along at the right price.
As far as Mr Miller goes, speaking with him briefly revealed that he certainly does a have a lot of technical knowledge. He also seems to be very thorough, offering me some advice on the conversion brackets I ordered.

 

A number of years ago, aside from Baer, the 1LE conversion was the only game in town, which is why I went in that direction. AndyZ28, Dan Burke, and Bill Fong were the principle investigators at the time, but in a thread by Andy about 1LE's, you'll see the beginning of Ed's interest in brakes. As I recall, Ed converted to 1LE's, but it wasn't long before he became the leading brake man where thirdgens are concerned. If not for him, we might well be stuck with Baer and the 1LE conversion.

JamesC

 

correct,years ago the 1le was the only game in town but them days are over. no need anymore. its a no brainer.1le and ls1 for our purposes are equivilant brakes,dual piston calipers. some guys like 1le maybe because its a true "factory" set up.i dont know,me i just want brakes.

1le mod includes hacking up your spindle and putting a bracket on,same as the ls1 so why bother trying to find hard to get abuttments .calipers,and rotors for a 1le setup?

oh if you got 1le rear why change,again its an equal brake to an ls1 so i wouldnt swap it out either.

i hate going to ebs website,i look at them 14" caddy brakes and just drool.....................i can justify the cost to go from c5 13 to caddy 14...if i were starting from scratch yes,but now no........... i have to say them monster calipers are hottttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt

 

I love the hot rodding aspect of it all. Who would have thought to turn down a 3rd gen rotor into a hub and modify spindles to accept a conversion bracket?
I'm happy someone has been there before me because it certainly has made my car hobby easier.
To all those who have blazed a trail, Cheers!

 

keep all options open...dont know your $$$$$ situationor how much you want to spend but another option is to buy a complete kit,knock the ball joint and tie rod out,unhook the strut and boom...your braking like a fool.

they asking 675 for ls1 or 775 for c5. not bad considering all them parts and after you add it all up...http://www.bigbrakeupgrade.com/products2.htm

 

Just to satisfy my own curiosity, I looked up when I converted to 1LE's. The kit was ordered from Spohn for $850 on 4-9/2003, so Ed's brought us along pretty quickly in seven years. BTW, I'm astounded that Spohn's price hasn't changed since I purchased. For me personally, the 1LE set-up, front and rear, has worked well since I wanted a sleeper and all parts are thirdgen factory.

BTW, finding 1LE parts isn't difficult. Auto parts stores will order in calipers, pads, rotors, and bearings. Spohn can provide other necessary parts. Sorry about the sidetrack.



JamesC

 

There has to be some restraint regarding how much you're going to spend. In as much as I would like to have everything delivered to my door and ready to bolt in, I get some satisfaction doing the research (like this thread) and building a comparable system for less money.
As for dollars spent so far: calipers and abutment brackets ( will rebuild calipers though), conversion brackets, rotors and pads come in around $365. What's left is to machine the hubs and modify the spindles.
Researching the 1LE option, I did find most parts available through the conventional parts stores. In fact I built the rear 1LE's this way. Side tracks are always welcome.

 

I put my system together one item at a time, because I did not have the money. I also learned a lot this way. As far as cheaper it depends how far you go. I do it right first time and on to next thing. I did not remove my spindles, drilled and taped them on car. Saved a realiment of front end. I have 265/35/18 goodyear tires at over $200 each not fooling around.
I did new caliper boots, repainted calipers, abutment brackets, spindles and banjo bolts. New braided SS brake lines, new self bleeders, hawks pads, new bearings, new wheel studs, seals and d/s/z rotors. I went with stock rotors at first because I had them. After putting D/S/Z on another guys car I wanted them on mine. I cut the disc off my rotors before I send them out, saved me some money. I made my own abutment bracket adapter. The cost REALLY gets up there when replacing just about everything. The backs are really up there also. I buy eds kit(brackets), this way I get the ebrake setup. Backs are a pain because you have to take the axles out.

 

so can I get a parts list, and what could I pul off a 4th gen in the junkyard. also does it have to be an LS1 or can it be a 98-02 V6?

 

i saw somewhere that the v6 had the same brakes from 98-02.

 

i assume youre looking to do a ls1 swap?if its the fronts all you really need is the caliper and abuttment brackets.if you are bare boning it and the rotors look good grab them.i wouldnt use old pads. if the flex lines come off easy grab them incase.i believe your stock lines work. the rest of the parts needed are found aftermarket.

Saved a realiment of front end. I have 265/35/18 goodyear tires at over $200 eac

this was an earlier pos.if you pop the spindle off to work on it you dontttttttt need to realign the car.

 

Yes.

The front brakes on the '98-'02 F-body's are all the same. V6 or V8, it doesnt matter.