TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I've got Ed's 13" rotors with 6 piston calipers, but they don't seem to fit. I just set the rim on to get dirt on the caliper to see where they hit. Even if I could gain a little room, these don't look they fit. Anyone have a similar prob or fix?

Brian

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

The Wilwoods FSL calipers have been tested and known to fit on stock IROC wheels, but not GTA wheels, not sure about Formula wheels.. I imagine the 6 piston calipers have slightly different fitment than the FSL 4 pistons. I think you are treading new water with your setup. Will a small spacer work?

Also, its hard to tell from the pics but does your pad overhang the edge of the rotor a bit? Several of us Wilwood users have had this problem.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I'm also having a prob on the driver's side. It appears the bolts holding the caliper to the bracket is slightly crooked - a pic would not show it.
I believe I may have to shim this side. Is it ok to shim between the bracket and the caliper - I need the caliper outboard a little more? When I fully tighten the bolts, I can't move the rotor. When I loosen it up a little, I can move it. I've measured the races, bearings, spindle, even the pads.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

a shim between the bracket and caliper should be fine, so long as its a good shim and not just a cheap grade 0 washer. The bolt should not be angled, maybe its bent? it threads into the caliper right? hopefully the caliper is not cross threaded.

was this an assembled kit from Ed, or just parts that you have put together and bought from him?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

This is a kit from Ed. This is nothing Ed has done wrong - just vendor fitment issues I believe.
Plus, I'm starting with a small knowledge base, myself.
I'm beginning to think it could be the race pressed into the hub? In this pic you can see the uneven pad pressure on the rotor just from turning it by hand.
I don't think the caliper is the culprit. I think I'll shim on the spindle-to-bracket so I keep a good flat contact bracket-to-caliper.
I keep trying to upload the pic, but that isn't working, either. What a day! The pad wears on the inside next to the hub, but no wear in the middle or on the end.

Guest

Brian, what if you take the hub assembly off and fit the rotor itself down into the rim with the face of the rim downward. See from the back side if the rotor itself fits fine fiirst. If that looks good them slip the caliper over it (nbot mounted to the spindle, just loose and slip fitted over the rotor- then again fit the rotor and caliper down into the wheel. If that still looks good then try and carefully support the caliper from banging around (maybe stuff a towel inbetween it and the rim to temp hold it in somewhat position ) as you try and get three kugnuts onto the rotor and bolt things down- again without the spindle attached. Once this is down, see if you can lay it flat on the ground again with the rim facing down and remove the towel or rag and see if you can move the caliper around the circumfereance of the rotor freely without interference. This will rule out any wheel bering or race issues and will give you an idea if this enitire assebly will fit within the boundries of the rim inside diameter you are using. Note that once you do actually mount the caliper to the spindle the caliper MAY move outward in diameter and hit the wheel- but a dry fit upside down like I suggest will show you how much clearance or play if any it has.

Next step, file away a little bit of the caliper if needed and can be done safely IF in fact there is clearance issues.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

I had to shim out my bracket as well with my Wilwood kit from Ed. I used some hardened washers, they seem to be working well.

Guest

I would agree with you guys about shiming the Caliper inward track width wise IF that were the problem, but by looking at his photo it is not the problem. Shimming the caliper would show clearance in the direction of the blue lines I sketched on his photo below. No marks in his photo there.

What is hitting is the areas I circled in red which is the radial height. Those calipers unfortunately are NOT radial mount calipers so you can not shim the height. THe brackets would have to be machined slightly less radial distance for caliper mounting IF in fact the caliper will sit lower in radial position on the rotor without the rotor hitting the pad retension bolt. I still suggest him dry fiting the assembly like I described in my first post to see if in fact the caliper will fit within the wheel on the rotor dryfit without the bracket and spindle attached. If so, then he either has some issue with his bearings and races like he was trying to describe (which I really doubt though) or it is just plain a radial clearance issue and he needs to see if there is room to machine a lower radial distance caliper by lets say .100-.200 to relieve contact onto the inner diameter of the rim circled in red.

I've also attached my dimensions of the brackets I made for my setup where I used Wilwood radial mount calipers with Narrow outer sections. These deminsions put a willwood caliper onto a thirdgen spindle with an offset for a radial mount of 12.90 caliper unshimmed, and radial shimmed it could go past the 13.06" rotor if needed no problem on my setup.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

The shimming I was referring to was in regards to him saying the rotor was not centered in the caliper. I had that problem too.

The problem with shimming the caliper down (less diameter) is that at least with my wilwoods (FSL caliper) there is no clearance to do that. The edge of the rotor ends up contacting the 'bridge' portion of the caliper. Again, there may be more clearance with these calipers.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Here's the caliper and rotor in the wheel. It is very close as you can see by the off-set center. I have pushed the caliper all the way to the side of the rim.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

The other prob has been solved. I was never told that by using the supplied ARP Wheel lug bolt, the hub holes had to be drilled out. That would definitely cause fitment probs. You can see from the first pic that uneven pad wear on the inside - I couldn't figure out the uneven pad contact. Uneven seatment of the bolts in the hub caused the prob - they looked like they were seated properly visually, BUT HEY, this is a learning curve for me. One more thing to watch out for. Ed is sending the drilled out hubs.

I bought a couple of boxes of washers. I'll put them over the lug bolts to keep the rim off the caliper while I move the car around the driveway. I'll have to go to 17" before it leaves the yard. Irritating, but I wanted to do that - just not forced to do it now. I'm glad I have bad rubber on the rims or irritation would be something else. Any ideas on rim sizes with the racecraft spindles with bump steer kit? I was thinking 17x9. These hats move out .300 so I have to take that into account on the offsets. I'm a purist and I desire an equal footprint. Lightweight and not too eye-catching as the red car does that.

Brian

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I feel like I've run into a tree, but there's no damage!
When there's nothing else to do, laugh

Guest

Brian, You must be refering to the "Hats" not the "hubs". When you say hubs, do you mean the ritir hats where the ARP studs go through? so as not to allow the hat to seat all the way onto the hub? That is what would make sense to me. The hat was not seated properly thus when you mounted the rim onto the unseated hat the wheel rotated oblong and brushed the caliper at places in rotation..

2 other points- 1)Looks like you DO in fact have radial mount calipers from the bracket you show, I thought you had Lug mount. 2)the offset of those calipers you have do not look like Narrow outer body. I had to run Narrow outer bodies to clear my 16" IROC wheels. and even then I had custom hubcentric press fit wheel spacers made with about a 5/8" offset since I also had custom G-body aluminum hubs so my total mount face offset was close to stock. The need for the 5/8"aprox wheel spacers was so I could run "REAR" IROC wheels up front- I ran 4 "Rears" on the car so I could rotate tires. If I ran larger offset FRONTS Irocs I would had adequate rim/caliper clearance without spacers.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

No Dean, I do mean the hubs. I punched out the stock GM bolts and used the supplied ARP bolts. Ed called me Thurs eve and said that the holes did need to be drilled out to accept the ARP bolts. He is shipping the hubs with the drilled out holes. The hats would not seat properly without the holes being drilled to accept the ARP bolts.
The calipers are close - the rims are cambered. The pic shows the room on the back of the caliper, but the calipers are touching on the front

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

My apologies, Brian, the issue is in the Wilwood application. That's a C5 spec brake setup and therefore has a hat with a thin offset and that's why the caliper hits. The hat normally used on the FSL kits has more offset which moves the caliper inward, giving more clearance to the wheel.

That said, your new wheels can cure this issue. Hubs will be on the way on Monday as discussed and I'll call you either tomorrow or Monday.

Ed

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

...... . . . . . . . . . . .

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Finally. . . .
The aluminum hubs and brakes are on. The pass side I had to grind the caliper slightly (& repaint by the outboard bleeder valve) - the caliper hit the inside rim, but using the fingernail test the contact was not indented at all. Did the same to the driver's as a precaution. It is VERY tight.
I'll post pics of suspension height on Tuesday to continue that thread.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Note on the aluminum hubs: the supplied wheel studs are way too short - I could only get the lug nuts on about two or three threads(the un-threaded neck at the end doesn't help, either). The knurl width is an unusual 13.41 mm or .5279 in. The ARP bolts (100-7708) are a good length (2.5 in), but the knurl is too loose at .509.
I've ordered ARP (100-7715) with .558 knurl and will have to file them down a little and press them in. More expense....more time waiting.....
It still cold here, so it could be worse. All the hard work is done!

monkey-leader

Nice brakes too, you're way ahead of me. I guess it's good that other people sort stuff out... :P

I'm thinking of using Porsche Cayenne Calipers with whatever rotor I can make fit. They can fit pretty much any size rotor I want and weigh in under ~5bs a pop.

They come with 368mm rotors that Id have to re-drill for 5x120.65 and maybe hone out the bore to get them to fit, but I can get the complete set (4 Calipers/Rotors/Pads) for 900 CAD. so like 500-600 USD used. I'm scared that they wont fit under 18' rims though.

My rational is that the pads take 8 minutes to change and I can get all different kinds. Also the Porsche mono block calipers are supposed to be one of the best.

monkey-leader

Wow, the rotors weigh a ton...

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=689&jpid=1

Second though, Those a re not a good option, the nominal thickness is too much IMO. Got another deal on a Rotora Street Challenge 6/4 Piston set-up... 500CAD