89 camaro non-1LE with disk front drum rear, stock with 15" wheels.
Looking for drilled & slotted rear vented rotors for the front. Anyone know of a place where I could purchase them?

 

Summit Racing has them. Surface area is more important than heat dissipation. Think about it, how often are you baking full tilt on a road course? Bigger is better in a street car...

 

Not really, if you are already able to over power your tire of choice traction, bigger is a waste, they will just lock up earlier/easier.

 

agreed.

I was talking to a performance guru in my town who builds stockcars and said that i should be looking for drilled and slotted rotors of the same size and have a 20-30% increase of stopping power when going 75 and braking or around town. he was explaining to me about my silly ideas of doing a c5 brake conversion and told me it would be pointless around town unless im going 100+ then it would be sensible. He was also talking to me about green brake pads (which i never heard of) and said I should look into that as well.

He said that the amount of surface area from being drilled and slotted its very minimal towards how much of the heat is actually being dispensed from burning up the brake pads. he said that it would even prolong the life on them. So he said that drilled slotted rear vented stock size rotors would be ideal.

So i was just checking if anyone else knew where to get them. Thanks for the tid bit also on summit, ill check there!

 

Apparently I was the one who was misinformed

 

driller rotors have a tendency to crack, so i dont see what this "guru" thinks they are so great.

good replacement blanks and a set of good pads, like hawks pads or similar will get you more performance, without the cracking issues of a drilled rotor.

besides, you are loosing surface area because of the holes and slots, on a rotor thats already too small to begin with.

FWIW, i put a set of drilled and slotted stock type rotors on my 86 years ago and noticed absolutly no difference at all.

 

Well consider this [and im only half screwing with ya] if you have no trouble locking up the tires with all stock blank stuff, then drill n slotted should stop better as its not gonna lock up as easy if the loss of surface area matters.

If that is so, it should take more brake pressure to lock them, as locked up tires don't stop as well and thus drill n slotted would stop better.

 

well, thats a different way of looking at it, and, in all reality, probably correct.

however, ease of locking up brakes is no indication of their performance.

for the op, its up to you, but the drilled and slotted will not provide any gain you will notice over a set of blanks. Just buy quality parts and good pads, even ACDelco pads are pretty good, and you will be fine.

 

It would be interesting to do a side by side comparison of stock size drilled/slotted vs. stock vs. bigger....

 

So instead of getting better tires, adjusting brake bias, getting newer shocks/struts (all things you can do to reduce the likelihood of lockup) you want to reduce braking power and reduce rotor life? Maybe it's just me but going about it that way seems backassward.

Honestly though, in a street application I doubt you'll notice a difference with drilled/slotted. Unless you like to beat the crap out of your car all the time and then you're just going to kill the life.

 

Nope thats my whole point, if you can over powers your tires all stock, what's the point of bigger brakes.

Just slappin on bigger stuff won't help if you don't address the other issue.

It all comes down to that 5x5 section of tire that meets the ground.

 

Getting back to the original question, SSBC makes a rotor for our cars that is drilled and slotted...

 

the drilled and slotted rotors run cooler. they get the hot gas and dust. away from the face of the rotor. has for the cracking..lol. well. even the face of undrilled rotors can crack. (iv seen them) but with the camfer its a thing of the past with ss brake lines 2 piston calipers and drilled and slotted 10.5 rotors. my Z28 stops on a dime.
no need for bigger brakes. but thats just me.

i have them all the way around. and can brake with my big toe..

 

Running the same setup, it does work great....

 

thanks!

What is this setup? I understand it but is it a kit i can purchase?

 

So again, instead of improving the rest of the system you want to downgrade already inadequate brakes? This makes perfect sense.

And yes, I just said the contact patch hitting the pavement has a huge affect on braking distance.

 

Modern pads gassing is almost non-existant. Yes blanks can crack. From overheating. If that's the case then duct some air in there. Take a step forward, not a step back. I've cracked my 14" z06 rotors but I beat the snot out of my daily driver.

 

Bo to ssbc.com, the caliper kit is a A181, several rotor choices are available, search the site, don't know the exact model no. All the parts are available through Jegs or Summit...

http://www.ssbrakes.com/commerce/bra...s%20%26%20Pads

 

There is a use for everything, including cross drilled rotors. The holes themselves add area for heat dissipation, and airflow. They also reduce swept area, so braking force is reduced to a degree. On the stock brakes, if you were to cross drill one side and not the other, you could find out that they definitely run a lot cooler and that the car will pull under braking from the loss of swept area.

That said, with how most people use brakes and supply an adequate amount of cooling and tread on their cars they're mostly if not entirely cosmetic in nature.

 

Why wouldn't you do a c5 brake conversion?

 

the amount of money for the conversion and actually purpose for needs for it is pointless

 

 

ssbc calprs $435 summit alum 2 piston alum finnish
drilled slotted rotors with cramic pads $200 shipped R1 concps
wheel bearings $35
ss brake lines summit/russl forget what i paid (4 wheel disk set)

stops my 10 sec camaro just fine. but yet agen..thats just me

 

Got mine @ Jegs for a little less. The calipers came w/ the Russel braided lines....

 

my ss brake line set is the 5 pc. dont have any rubber lines left on the car.I do like my drilled and sloted rotors also

 

I have a set of EBC slotted and drilled brake rotors on the front, as well as a set of EBC red stuff pads.
This along with the 1LE calipers made a considerable difference compared to the stock brakes, but the difference is mainly noticable after building up some temperature, at which point the blank brakes started to fade and the slotted ones don´t.

Drilled pads do not quite make as much sense for street use. Slotted actually do, especially with rather heavy cars. Slotted and/or drilled brakes do increase wear on pads and rotors considerably.

 

Thats funny coming from someone who wants slotted and drilled rotors on his stock 305 Camaro.

 

How many times do you stop the brake pedal on the dragstrip? Once.

 

consideringive read the odds and its now pointless that i notice it.

 

I got c5 calipers and brackets, front and rear eradispeed rotors, hawk pads and stainless lines for $350 plus the ride.

Had to buy ed's brackets but overall not really that expensive.

 

2 to 3 times. then make the turn. then get back on it (return) lane race..lol. and when im driving it on the street. they also stop the car just fine. but then im not driving like the Dukes Of Hazard. just your every day 3300lb 10.20 sec street car.

 

the prices ive been coming up with are about 750$+ for c5 kit

 

ebay. you can find all of the name brands if you dont want to go cheap although the ebay brands are just fine when it comes to rotors

 

i pieced together my c5 setup for under 500 bux off ebay and here, complete, spindles, hubs, brackets, calipers and abutments, new rotors, and pads.

if you look around, and keep an eye out, great deals pop up from time to time.

but of course, if you are sticking with 15" wheels, your options are more limited

 

I have 17" c6 oereplica

i just never trusted ebay...

 

I have a set that came in a kit Raybestos Quiet Stop Ceramic Brake Pads, cross drilled and slotted rotors and calipers. They have lasted for 10 years. You can't turn them once you need to do that you have to replace them. As long as you torque the lugs to the correct amount they will last. I seen a huge difference in my stopping distance it was like night and day.

 

Summit racing has a pad and rotor kit rotors are slotted and dimpled insted of drilled, pads are ceramic. Part # sum-kar8213ps $207.90

 

wilwood billet single piston calip $98 ea (stock fitment)
ss brake line for the front $61.00 For above.
R1 drlled rotors front & back $200
ss brake lines for the back $100


this is for the front none 1LE
with 10.5 rotors

calipers $196 SET Wilwood
rotors with crmc pads $200 4 PC SET zink plate us made
ss brake lines $61.00 2 PC SET Wilwood

you can buy over time or all at the same time..
this also drops off anther 6lbs from the front of the car.

stopping your 3300lb 10 sec street car camaro with 4" wide front tires

PRICELESS!

 

remember:

if you want to add billet alum calipers Wilwood makes them

$98ea from summit

metric 120-7197 part # if i remember right

and you will drop off another 6 / 7 LBS off the car

 

Here's a article addressing this same subject that I thought was interesting.
http://reviews.ebay.com/Drilled-vs-s...00000005243690

 

Interesting, informative, Thx...

 

I was thinking as I was reading all the posts...hmmm, Mercedes/Porsche uses drilled rotors, they can't be that bad, and then I read the attached article and there at the bottom are the mfgs listed that I sell brakes for!

"...I believe that drilled rotors are better for street and highway driving. For most drivers, I recommend drilled rotors over slotted rotors, and this conclusion is supported by the fact that Corvette, Ford GT, Porsche, Mercedes and BMW come with OEM drilled rotors..."

...along with several other mfgs. Glad I bought drilled rotors for my car.