Installing Ed Miller's 12" rear disc kit - Questions
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Joined: Apr 2000
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: modded LB9
Transmission: Pro Built 700R4
Installing Ed Miller's 12" rear disc kit - Questions
My axle project has been on hold over winter and I'm now looking to get it finished off and installed on the car. I'm trying to install Eds 12" rear pbr kit. I'm having problems installing the calipers.
Each caliper bolt came with 2 washers, the thickest one seems to go between the caliper and the bracket to prevent the bracket sitting in the recess machined into the caliper bolt area, is this correct?
The other thing I'm wondering is what is the purpose of the large bolt in the pictures? It's making contact with the LCA bracket and preventing the caliper from being bolted up correctly. I've searched through other threads but have not been able to find a picture with this lage bolt on. Is there any reason why I couldn't either cut it short or reverse it so it is sticking out the rear?
I came across JamesC's thread which helped explain the brackets for where the hardlines and flexi lines connect together. Here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...iscs-89-a.html
Thanks for the help, I've attached pics to try and show what I'm referring to.
Edit:
Not sure if I should gring the edge of the bracket or caliper down slightly sh that it sits fulsh with the washer installed?
Each caliper bolt came with 2 washers, the thickest one seems to go between the caliper and the bracket to prevent the bracket sitting in the recess machined into the caliper bolt area, is this correct?
The other thing I'm wondering is what is the purpose of the large bolt in the pictures? It's making contact with the LCA bracket and preventing the caliper from being bolted up correctly. I've searched through other threads but have not been able to find a picture with this lage bolt on. Is there any reason why I couldn't either cut it short or reverse it so it is sticking out the rear?
I came across JamesC's thread which helped explain the brackets for where the hardlines and flexi lines connect together. Here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...iscs-89-a.html
Thanks for the help, I've attached pics to try and show what I'm referring to.
Edit:
Not sure if I should gring the edge of the bracket or caliper down slightly sh that it sits fulsh with the washer installed?
Last edited by RMK; Apr 16, 2011 at 10:41 AM. Reason: Problem unploading pictures
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,807
Likes: 108
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Installing Ed Miller's 12" rear disc kit - Questions
does that large bolt hold that big counter weight thing for the parking brake?
as for the interference, if thats not correctable with a washer, i would grind the bracket a little. if you grind the caliper mount, and its not perfectly flat, if will nto torque down evenly and can fail.
as for the interference, if thats not correctable with a washer, i would grind the bracket a little. if you grind the caliper mount, and its not perfectly flat, if will nto torque down evenly and can fail.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Installing Ed Miller's 12" rear disc kit - Questions
OE: http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/s...20DSZ%20rotors
Non-OE: http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/s...hardware%20kit
I have no idea of the what or why to the bolt (there certainly isn't one attached to the OE piece).
EDIT: ED may have had the bracket fabricated for the sake of reinforcement. At any rate, note the OE in the following pics for a better appreciation of the difference:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...-did-yall.html
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; Apr 16, 2011 at 03:13 PM.
Re: Installing Ed Miller's 12" rear disc kit - Questions
There were counter weights on 4th gen lt1 pbr brakes. I had to cut off that bolt. I read that people removed the weight with no effects, so I ended up cutting off that bolt
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Re: Installing Ed Miller's 12" rear disc kit - Questions
Red, thanks for the head slap to wake me up. While there are no counter weights, there is a vibration dampener on the LT1 version of the PBR (93-97), which is unused on the 89-92 PBR's. The dampener isn't necessary.Check post #13 for a pic and the link for more info:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...4-lt1-ls1.html
BETTER pic:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...1t:429,r:3,s:0
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; Apr 17, 2011 at 06:29 AM.
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: modded LB9
Transmission: Pro Built 700R4
Re: Installing Ed Miller's 12" rear disc kit - Questions
Thanks for the advice everyone.
With regards to the caliper not fitting flush with the bracket, assuming I have the washers on the correct way round and they are not supposed to be doubld up to combine their height, I'll take a little off the bracket with the die grinder. Thanks for that 86TA, I hadn't thought about torquing issues if it didn't sit flush.
While on the bracket, the lower two holes on each don't line up with the holes on the axle flange so will have to elongate the holes in the flange to get a new bolt through and lock it with a nut on the other side. If anyone has any other ideas here let me know. Only one I can think of is using a very thin bolt that fits though the small gap, but feel a drilling it out and using a 6mm bolt is better. I put the fitment down to differences from the factory with regards to the holes on the flange and not in the brackets themselves as one of the large holes on the flange has to be enlarged slightly for the bot to go through.
As for the bolt, I've attached some pictures (excuse the quality, taken on my phone) and it is as was highlighted by Redlava and explained by James. I'll try shortening the bolt and see how I get on with that-would rather not have to dismantle it just to remove the extra piece of bracket. Wont have a chance to work on it again until Wednesday but will hopefull be in a position to report back then how I get on. I have a feeling that I may also have to rotate the steel braid hose where it connects to the caliper as it looks close to hitting the relocation bracket too.
Robert
With regards to the caliper not fitting flush with the bracket, assuming I have the washers on the correct way round and they are not supposed to be doubld up to combine their height, I'll take a little off the bracket with the die grinder. Thanks for that 86TA, I hadn't thought about torquing issues if it didn't sit flush.
While on the bracket, the lower two holes on each don't line up with the holes on the axle flange so will have to elongate the holes in the flange to get a new bolt through and lock it with a nut on the other side. If anyone has any other ideas here let me know. Only one I can think of is using a very thin bolt that fits though the small gap, but feel a drilling it out and using a 6mm bolt is better. I put the fitment down to differences from the factory with regards to the holes on the flange and not in the brackets themselves as one of the large holes on the flange has to be enlarged slightly for the bot to go through.
As for the bolt, I've attached some pictures (excuse the quality, taken on my phone) and it is as was highlighted by Redlava and explained by James. I'll try shortening the bolt and see how I get on with that-would rather not have to dismantle it just to remove the extra piece of bracket. Wont have a chance to work on it again until Wednesday but will hopefull be in a position to report back then how I get on. I have a feeling that I may also have to rotate the steel braid hose where it connects to the caliper as it looks close to hitting the relocation bracket too.
Robert
Last edited by RMK; Apr 18, 2011 at 02:15 PM. Reason: Added middle paragraph re. bracket holes.
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