On the small distribution block that the hard line goes into with the sctew that goes with it. Does both sides if it get a brass washer? I can't seem to get it to stop leaking.

 

Seems to be leaking between the caliper and block...any help?

 

Yep, put one on both sides, check for torque specs too.

 

Any idea what the torque spec a are...I cranked it on super tight...I don't want to snap it off

 

Super tight is not at all what you want. Spec is usually 17-22 ft-lbs. I would replace crush washers with new and try again. Make sure nothing is preventing the banjo fitting from sitting nicely on the caliper.

 

Digging up an old thread.......I have the same problem with my 82 Trans Am.
I swapped the stock 10 bolt for a 9 bolt disc brake iron caliper 3.27 posi rear.

I cannot get the drivers side line to stop leaking at the caliper. I replaced both washers. One between the distribution block and caliper and the other between distribution block and the banjo bolt. I torqued it down, and it still leaks between the caliper and the distribution block. Does anyone know of a part number for an adapter that will thread directly into the caliper? That way I can eliminate the banjo bolt and distribution block. I'll make a new line and just plumb directly into the caliper.

It's the drivers side line pictured in this thread.....

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...bolt-hard.html



Any help is appreciated.

 

Make sure the surfaces are clean and not damaged. The factory commonly uses only a copper washer on the bolt head side. The brass blocks have circular machine marks for sealing but they won't seal up well if undone. An easy way to clean a caliper is to use one of those steel wire bristles/rotary brush, stick in in the hole and let it rip. IT'll clean up nice most of the time.

 

Ok, thanks for the reply. I'll try cleaning it up and ditching the washer between the caliper and distribution block. This is frustrating.........

 

Use a washer a new one or if copper torch the old one first