Hey doing a complete brake overhaul on my 83 z28 with pretty much new everything. I have front disc and rear drum brakes and was looking at purchasing this new proportioning valve

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Brand-New-Universal-GM-Brass-Finish-Disc-Drum-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-/161031995024?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257e413e90&vxp=mtr
just wondering if I will have the same size threads on my lines for this I know I can do the wilwood adjustable but would like to keep my warning light switch hooked up....

Yeah?...I'd like to know the same thing too, I just ordered one form Summit Racing, it's labeled as a PV-2, and to me there is a huge difference in both designs of the old factory vs. the after market version!!!!

I just got this one today and it will need a custom to fit brace and specialty "U" shaped with a custom "J" turn joint to join it up from the bottom for the front brakes!...so off to the shop to see what I can find???

I ordered one of those from Ebay and when I got it I was suspicious of what was inside so I took it apart. Guess what - it had no proportioning valve built into it. The side with the nut is supposed to have the spring in it that reduces pressure. Mine had nothing. It was just a straight through tube with nothing in it.It was a dangerous piece of Chinese crap. Just make sure you got a legit one because the one I had could have had serious consequences had I installed it.

If I get a chance I will snap some pics of it so you guys understand what I mean.

I am just gonna end up cleaning mine up and doing the spring upgrade..

I got it, but had to find some lucrative parts to be able to mount it, find an extra 12" brake line and a line former, it took two hours to remove the old one then I will begin to retrofit everything A.S.A.P.!

Not sure why you are going with that prop valve on your car. It is a repop of a prop valve used in the 70's on GM vehicles. It has sae threads and if you are putting it on the car in your sig you have metric threads. You would be better off trying to find a good used one. You will have to make custom lines or adapters to get it to fit.

Also - do yourself a favor and take off the nut on the side going to the rear brakes and make sure that it has a prop valve in it. A big giveaway if it is fake or not is it should have a weep hole built into the nut with a little rubber seal over it like in this pic:

If it doesn't have that then chances are there is no prop valve in it.

Yeah!...just found out minutes ago, so I will get all new lines that allow this to connect and mount it up!...I'd rather have a whole new one that is reliable that a problematic part that could repeat bad performance way down road away from home!

That's what I got too!!!!

It has the weep hole? Then it should be good. I would take the nut off and check inside anyway. Better to be safe then sorry.

In addition to the whole rip-off kind of bogosity thing above, be aware that 82 & 83 had SAE threads, but 84-up had metric. Therefore there is no such thing as "universal" regardless of how tempting the ad copy appears.

Measure twice, assemble once.

In the last three days, I learned that this prop valve would require all new lines to connect from the M.S. and also that in the process, to also but all new line connectors and that would require some disc cutting and use of a flare tool (if you have one?)...It took me a couple of hours to form a couple of tube rods and flare on so0me newer tips and I only have one line that still needs to be joined in and then a full bleeding to go!
P110713_1920_zps0dac394e.jpg?t=1373609482//P110713_1917_zps9a21a78b.jpg?t=1373609478

As I start fixing, I quickly realize that a double flare tool is needed as the single flare tool does very little in terms of fixing any of the lines and that is most important to use as much of the original equipment as much as possible*

And also try to get the prop valve to balance directly under the master cylinder*