383backinblack

If you've ever done a rear brake/parking brake upgrade you probably struggled with connecting the brake cables (I sure did back in the day). Most aftermarket parking brake cables end in an adjuster with a clevis. That's fine if you have the whole console out of the car and you want to run both cables all the way up inside the car, mount them, and connect the clevis to the handle directly.

But, no one really wants to do that and generally, the short, front cable is in good shape (it's the rear ones that always get torn up). So I made a part to mount a clevis on one end, and the factory-type crimped ferrule on the other end. It works great. I already have a better idea for a simpler, one piece aluminum version that would be even smaller.

If anyone wants to do this I'm happy to make a couple up just to try it out. I think I'm going to make the aluminum version this week. I'll drop that in here, too.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

Interesting. I'd like to add discs to the rear of my car at some point, but had not thought the cables through yet.

383backinblack

It's a pain in the butt. Of course there are worse things, but if you don't at least have some steel and a welder it's a hard problem to solve.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

You might be making it more complex than needed. If I'm understanding correctly you should just be able to TIG weld on some new "ferrules" and then use all the existing bracketry Like what Rob did: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...1z-ls1-11.html

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JD...w1509-h1006-no

383backinblack

You can certainly do that, if you have a welder. But it doesn't fix the slides that chew up the factory cable jackets. So, eventually those will tear up and get stuck again (like they always do), even if the brakes themselves function well.

Also, if you're using aftermarket cables part of the reason is to get something that adjusts correctly, isn't caked in rust, and is easier to assemble/disassemble. My point with this was if there was a part (like the one I made) I totally would've paid 30-50 bucks for it rather than have to make something myself to do it (it took a little time, too). I already built a single piece CNC aluminum block version of this in CAD that I want to punch out (it just looks cooler and it's easier to make, if you have access to a CNC mill).

(That dude does great work btw).

But there is always a neater, better way to do something, and that's a big part of why all of us do this in the first place. The only reason one way seems "sufficient" is because it's already there, meaning someone else already did the work. Eventually that can become something else that's the "easy" way, too.

383backinblack

Oh for clarity, that aluminum block would replace the black steel piece in the picture above.

383backinblack

Speaking of excessive, unnecessary complication, I ran a simulation on this and it looks like it'll take several tons of tension