gbeaird

iTrader: (1)

I've done a fair amount of searching but haven't found any viable information updated since about 2008. If there are, please point me to it, because my search-fu is failing miserably. I'm going into the brake system on our 1992 B4C 1LE Camaro RS and figure I might as well replace the brake hoses while I'm there. I'd like to get braided steel, but if I have to settle on rubber, that'll work, too.

It looks like the last few posts on the matter listed an Earl's kit P/N 28A190 ERL. I'm not finding any vendors listing that P/N anymore. I've gone to the Holley web site (the multi-national conglomerate that bought Earl's), and the more _specific_ I get on the search parameters, the _less_ specific the results get! I've been on the Russell Performance web site, but to download their 'online' catalog just results in a spinning icon. Goodridge doesn't seem to list a 1LE kit anymore, either. I see Hawks 3rd Gen lists a set for 'performance brakes', and while they do list other kits that are specifically 'except 1LE', they don't state if the 'performance' set will work on a 1LE. I'd think that would be kind of an important fitment, but who am I to judge?

Anyway, does anyone know of any, hopefully specific part number, brake hose kit that will properly-fit a 92 Camaro 1LE? Thanks!

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Think I got my last set from goodridge but it was a long time ago. I called them directly but still got the wrong thread pitch banjo fittings for the rear calipers. I'd give them a call, may still have them or could make them?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

You can have brake hoses made to length. Measure up what you have and start making some phone calls. If you don't know how to get that done then a place like Kore3 can do it for you.

gbeaird

iTrader: (1)

I found what I think are 1LE rubber hoses on Rock Auto. I have a set on the way. I talked to Hawks and they stated that the braided set for the 'performance' option will fit the 1LE, so I have a set of those on their way, too. I'll report back success or failure when the stuff arrives and I get under the car.

gbeaird

iTrader: (1)

It's been raining here since before I posted the original query. That, and after work, I've been herding a new pup we rescued through her day, trying to teach her that outside in the wet is where she does her business. So far, all she's wanted to do is run through the puddles, and into the house to relieve herself.

Anyway, no time in the shop yet. All the parts are in, and I hope to get some time to at least get under the car to compare parts with what's on the car after our autocross event this Sunday.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The performance package is the 1LE, front and rear (to include non-1LE cars with rear PBRs, 89-92).

https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/bra...e-option-5-pc/

JamesC

gbeaird

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, they finally responded with a 'yes'. I have both sets in hand now, and can confirm that at least the dimensions look good. We'll see when I try to actually bolt things in.

Finally got some time in the shop today. I _think_ we have successfully fixed the 2 sensor issue in the Caprice, and then I got down to doing work on the B4C. Bench-bleeding a MC does NOT make for a clean install. But the MC is on, so I went to work on the other bits. I figured I'd 'just swap out the pads right quick'. WRONG!!

Baer Sport front pads do NOT work on a 1LE. Those little stamped steel cups that fit into the holes in the caliper are .012" TOO FREAKING BIG!! No amount or filing, bending, or anything else would make them fit. Fsckers!! Do NOT buy Baer Sport brake pads for the front of your B4C Camaro!!

So I'm off to the local parts house this weekend to get a different set.

gbeaird

iTrader: (1)

I think I'm finally done with this project. It wasn't easy. People don't seem to be quite so careful about their OEM-replacement parts like they used to. As mentioned above, the Baer D0412 pads have the aligning cups that are too damned big to fit into the sockets in the calipers. Don't use these! With that fail, I picked up a set of PFC Carbon Metallic pads, P/N 0412.20, from our local parts house. they lacked the notch for the locking pin on one side each. I tried to notch them with my bench grinder, but still couldn't get things to line up (a PO had replaced the stock locking pins with some coupler safety pins, which, I think were a little larger diameter). Since I had ordered a hardware kit from Rock Auto, along with another set of front pads, just in case, I waited.

I got a set of CTek-brand, P/N 102.04120, from Rock Auto. Those, and the replacement anchor pins dropped right in, and I was on my way.

Since I had everything open anyway, I installed a set of braided brake lines. They fit okay, but lack the collar midway down the front hoses to clip onto the strut bracket. Because of that, it's easy for the hoses to loop downward and get pinched between the spindle and the steering stop on the lower control arm. I had to McGuyver a 'clip' using a combination of hose clamps, plastic conduit and zip ties to keep the hoses out of that pinch area. This will bear monitoring with use. I do have a set of factory replacement hoses, though, just in case.

I had a heck of a time getting the rear caliper banjo bolts to seal, even when using new gaskets. I ended up having to loosen the bolts a bit and wiggle the hoses around a bit before tightening them back up. I discovered the rear line on the master cylinder was also a bit weepy. I think I finally got that one tight enough, too.

I picked up a Griot's Garage vacuum-operated 'one man' bleeder. While it seemed to move fluid, I couldn't get just fluid in the bleeder hose. I was hoping I was just entraining some air from the bleeder screw, so bled the brakes with it, but then later had my co-driver assist with pressure bleeding. One of the front calipers seemed to still have air in it, so that was work that was not wasted. I guess with these one-man things, it's okay to use them to get most of the way there, but you'll want to finish with a foot on the brake pedal.

Anyway, now, I hope I can get the thing inspected, so can get it back in the air to tackle the pinion seal. That's going to be a bisch, since the torque arm has to come off to get to it.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Never had a bit of luck with vacuum based brake bleeders on these cars. There's just too much slop between the bleeder and caliper threads, you'll pull air through the threads all day long and still have air in the system. A bleeder system that pressurizes the reservoir should work well, if you can get the bleeder to seal to the top of the reservoir. The stock cover doesn't cut it, you'll never get enough pressure to force the air out of the bleeders. Tight fitting vinyl tubing on the bleeder screws into a jar or bottle of fluid, and slowly pumping the brakes while keeping the reservoir topped off works OK. Get enough of an arch in the tubing, and enough fluid in your container, and you'll be able to pump all the air out, and close the bleeder. That said, it's still easiest to train a helper monkey to run the pedal while you lay under the car manipulating the bleeder. That way you're in control (relative) of the air pushing out, and sucking back in. Still can take a few tries to get things good...

gbeaird

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I've tried the 'one-man' pressure bleeders, too, and those were total fails. I even tried modifying many of the parts to make things work, but had zero luck. I had thought about getting a garden sprayer tank and modding up a set of factory caps to see if I could get that setup to work, but haven't yet. I need to readdress that so I can have an easier way to bleed brakes so I actually bleed the brakes on our collection of cars.

I have an old EIS bleeder tank, but that requires you to add fluid to part of the tank, and pressurizing it with air. I see that as making a huge mess hooking and unhooking the apparatus, and by now, I bet the rubber bladder is full of cracks.

My wife is good at the pump and hold, but it would be nice if I could just go out and have a bleeding session when I get the mind to do so without having to schedule things. That, and foot-bleeding really messed up the ABS on our 98 Dakota R/T. It took some work to get the system reset so it turned off the ABS light. I think using air pressure would be best for that system, specifically.