When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello, I have a leak on the rear calipers, how can I do this job correctly, if you have any recommendations? It is my first time and in my country (FRANCE), this car is exotic
If you can get a Haynes or Chilton manual for these cars, they actually do a pretty good job on the overhaul procedure on calipers. It looks like your leak may be solved by just the gasket under the parking brake actuator arm. TBH, calipers are usually so cheap it's not worth overhauling them.
Also have the 1LE's available too if you are interested in an upgrade.
yes I had already seen but I told myself that as soon as possible to fix it, this will be the 2nd solution but for an upgrade I must to get new discs and other stuff ?
You need mounting brackets, calipers, emergency brake cables, rotors, and pads. Once you make the change, parts and maintenance are so much more accessible, not to mention the performance and appearance improvements.
The 89-97 PBR rear calipers are getting scarce too. Right now Rock Auto only lists one remaining right rear PBR with the 89-91.5 parking brake setup, and one with the 91.5-97 parking brake. Without the parking brake hardware, you're kind of screwed, because the parts aren't offered separately, and they're NLA from GM. Worse yet without a core, the PBR calipers get spendy in a hurry.
Rock Auto along with others have been purging the 1LE brake parts for years at this point. With dedication and patience, or unlimited funds, a person could probably source all the parts, but it's not at all safe to say the parts will still be available in the future. It's hardly worth the expense to upgrade in hopes of continued parts support when that support is already drying (dried) up.
The 93-97 PBR rears look to still be available. They're basically the same caliper with the fins milled down. But again, expect it to be spendy and the future parts support to be iffy.
You need mounting brackets, calipers, emergency brake cables, rotors, and pads. Once you make the change, parts and maintenance are so much more accessible, not to mention the performance and appearance improvements.
This is correct, but the good news is there are other options for upgrades out there.
For the originals, there is always the option of posting on here that you are looking for one. I see on FB and here where there are part outs going on and so forth. I guess timing is the key if that is how you get parts.
However, for the OP saying speed is the key here, replacing the seals may be the best option.
This is correct, but the good news is there are other options for upgrades out there.
For the originals, there is always the option of posting on here that you are looking for one. I see on FB and here where there are part outs going on and so forth. I guess timing is the key if that is how you get parts.
However, for the OP saying speed is the key here, replacing the seals may be the best option.
Hello, the reparation with a kit of gasket it is OK, just changed two copper washer on banjo, and the seal on axle of parking brake ...
But after a check up here in France for get the immatriculaton, they find again only one problem, the parking brake it is not suffisant...
I have adjust with the set bellow the vehicule I screwed on 1 inch approx and the cable is more tight, but I hope what It will be OK...
The parking brake is poor on the car GTA 87 ? a commun problem ?
Hello, I fixed the leak with a new seal, set the cables, but after the legal control in France but the rear braking is not effective and the ebrake is completely weak ....
I have passed the test OK because I know the person and I can run with this car, but I must to fixe that for the future.
I have 3 solutions :
restauration of calipers with a kit, it will get a better rear braking but the ebrake........
an upgrade with PBR but I live in France, it will not be easy for do that
There is a procedure to adjust those iron calipers. I don't know the exact process, but you have to ratchet out the piston before you install them so the parking assembly is within adjustment. There is a possibility that you might get them to work properly.
I found this to work on it thanks you for your help, this forum is gold, stay at home, difficult period for everybody covid19time................stay strong !
Ah ok c'est déjà ça ! ci dessous le process, dommage que je puisse pas mettre le pdf que j'ai :
If your brakes don't work one day, are you grabbing the parking brake handle to help slow the car down? Yes... and it can be used in this manner in an emergency. I used my Parking brake lever to give a bit of extra squeeze while bedding in the new rears.
Cadmaro, if you have no leaks and you have travel in the pads, the calipers are fine. Do you use your parking brake every time you park the car? If not, this is why they are out of adjustment.
1. Jack the rear end up, put the axle on jack stands
2. Loosen the equalizer bar until you can remove the cables from the calipers.
3. *Do one side at a time
4. Remove the return spring, actuation arm, and seal. Hold the actuator arm to prevent anything moving while removing the nut.
5. Mark where a flat of the adjuster screw is on the caliper body so you can align the screw in the later steps.
6. Now the adjuster screws can go right into the calipers if you twist and push. So to adjust them, I put a thick washer against the caliper housing. Put a box end wrench on the screw and use the nut that was retaining the arm to retain the wrench (This allows the adjuster to spin, push the pads out, and allow the hex on the double lead screw to poke out enough to get the arm back on.)
7. Turn Clock wise to extend the pads to the rotor. Turn until you have resistance and you can't move the rotor. The pads should be set to just about dragging.
8. Check mark... if it is not lined up, you won't get the lever arm back on in the right spot. The level arm should go back over the adjusting screw and rest against the stop on the caliper, when pulled away there should be no more than 1/8" of gap between the arm and the stop.
9. If the alignment is not correct, turn the screw counter clockwise. With the double lead, this will release pressure on the pads but not pull the back. Rotate a bit further so you are starting in a different location, and turn it back in again with the washer, nut, and wrench
10. You will repeat this process until you get it right. No magic here, just have to get it right. If there is some fluid leak around the seal during the rotation of the screw, it is perfectly normal. Right is pads almost dragging the rotors and less that a 1/8” of travel between the stop and the parking brake actuation arm before it hits resistance.
11. Put seal on screw, place arm on screw, and tighten retaining nut
12. Do the other side.
13. Reassemble return springs and parking brake cables.
14. Tighten equalizer bar until the hand leaver is difficult to get to 14 clicks (I believe the Factory Service Manual calls for 125lbs. of force on the parking brake arm to achieve 14 clicks)
15. Check that the parking brake works and when released it is not holding the pads against the rotors.
16. Optional step, but I recommend it in case any air seeped in while adjusting the screws. Pull parking brake on and off multiple times and push the brake pedal down each time they are extended. Leave parking brake set and bleed the rear brakes.
17. then use the parking brake every time you park the car to keep them in adjustment.
There is a procedure to adjust those iron calipers. I don't know the exact process, but you have to ratchet out the piston before you install them so the parking assembly is within adjustment. There is a possibility that you might get them to work properly.
This and it should take about 125lbs of force to reach 14 clicks of the handle. Mine works ok following the book procedure. When setting the pads/caliper to rotor, I had to adjust multiple times until I was able to be where the pads would just barely touch with the arms in the right locations... the bolts relationship or "clocking" to the right position with the pads tight.
I still want to stress it is OK. It holds the car in gear, but doesn't take much gas to get it to start creeping.
Also, in this car it would be a parking brake... not an emergency brake. It would be absolutely a last resort in an emergency as it could lock the rear and cause the rear end to come around. Though, for that to happen it would have to be capable of locking the rears 🤣
