I'm converting my '89 Camaro to manual brakes using a kit from manualbrakes.com . I have it all set up as per the instructions - which has you drilling the hole for the pivot pin 3/8" in from the forward edge of the pedal arm - and now the pedal arm is wedged up against the retainer for the stoplight switch when the adjustable pushrod is adjusted all the way in and the brakes are bled. This makes it so you can't screw the switch thru the fitting like I believe GM intended so it is securely held in place, not to mention the pedal constantly bumping the thin sharp metal edge of the retainer. Seems to me it would have been better to drill the pivot hole in the center of the pedal arm and not right on the edge of the arm, and if it's a little loose then adjust it with the adjustable pushrod. (What's the point in having an adjusted pushrod then.) I checked on my '78 Firebird's brake pedal arm which came with factory manual brakes and the hole is in the center of the arm, more or less, and there is plenty of room to screw the stoplight switch in to get good thread engagement and adjustment.

I tried to call the owner David Schultz about this but he hasn't returned my call. Anyone here done a manual brake conversion and how did it go? Anyone see why I shouldn't re-drill the hole for the pushrod in the center of the pedal arm so I can screw the stoplight switch in properly? The only other solution I can think of is to try to find a shorter pushrod or to a thicker spacer than the one supplied with the kit to go between the pedal box and the firewall, which seems like if would be more hassle.

 

not my kit but usually you move the pivot point UP not forward

 

The instructions already have you moving the pivot point up about an inch or so to allow for the different pedal ratio needed for manual brakes.

The owner of the company finally got back with me and said he is going to send me a shorter clevis to allow for more adjustment. This saves me having to redrill the hole and reset the pivot pin, but I still think it would have been better to have people that do this drill the pivot hole in the middle of the arm, not the edge.

 

I just saw this post.

If anyone has any questions about the install please call, text, or email.

David Schultz
manualbrakes.com
832-264-5566

 

According to the instructions in the kit I just got, the new hole is offset towards the front so the clevis doesn’t bind in travel.

 

I welded the old offset hole shut and drilled a new hole in the center of the brake pedal arm. Then I used a 3/8" heim joint instead of a clevis. This worked well with the rest of the parts in your kit. I really think you should redo your kit and instructions for 3rd gens like this.

 

This didn't work out very well for me.