i need a pair of subs that can handle between 600 and 800 watts rms and they have to be in my price range. Any suggestions?

 

What is your price Range? That wiill help us give you ideas/opinions!

 

yeah, most subs that can handle that kinda power are in the $500-$800 range, if your looking for a brand name sub anyway.

 

Id go with Kicker... But then again, its really a matter of preference. Kicker subs are relatively cheap and last forever. I have two 12" in a big sealed box with an old Orion 2150 pushing them bridged(about 600w rms, or 300 a piece).....and they sound great for me. Just remember to get some dynamat for the trunk area if you havent already. That REALLY helps work out the rattles. Just my .02.

 

What amp are you going to use, what head unit do you have and what is your price range. Also how big of a space is there, do you need a vented, bandpass, sealed or free air woofer.

 

http://www.diamondaudio.com/MobileAu...age=Subwoofers

M6 10D4

General
Titanium Magnesium cone
3" voice coil
Dual Nomex spiders
Lead wires woven in Spider

Specifications
Power Range (W RMS):800
Impedance (ohms): Dual 4
Sensitivity (dB SPL): 90 (2.83-V input @ 1 meter)
Freq. Resp: 22Hz-250Hz(±3dB

800W RMS ..... Check.
Price range ?? Helps to specify, but at the shop near me they're $179 each for the 10" we know what my cars getting.

 

i was thinkin about getting 2 12" Kicker L7 which are $350 each. That is about my price range. I need a custom built sealed box with about a cubic foot because i cannot fit dual bandpass. I will probably have sealed box with a boult in amp rack. My head unit is a sony Xplod CDX-CA700X with a Boss Audio Ripper 1600 Amp.

 

Telling us what amp you're planning on would be more helpful than giving a power range. Power handling numbers for subs are such BS that you can basically ignore them. The truth is, the only sub that is going to have more output at 800 watts vs. 600 watts is a sub with huge excursion capability, but those are such power hungry pigs that they NEED all that power to play as loud as a more efficient sub with 200 watts.

 

The sub is a good choice, is it a solarbaric? Kicker solabaric 10 only needs .5 ft of airspace. I would steer clear of sony xplod products and amps that use the name Boss Audio Ripper, or Earthquake. These amps claim huge wattage outputs but are not mosfet power supplies and produce very unsharp large watts. There are similar to the power supplies found in washer and dryers. Look for a MTX or Fosgate amp, maybe a phoenix gold. Youll be much more pleased with them. Anytime some stereo company has to name something like xplod its your bet that it some kind of marketinfg strategy, I have not been impressed with these low cost and supposed high output head units whenever I have worked with them. You do get what you pay for in the stereo industry.

 

2 Adire Brahma 12". They will have better SQ and should be very comparable in total output to the L7's. $379/each.

www.adireaudio.com
www.ampmanaudio.com

 

I'm going to post the same thing I always post for these kinds of posts.

Choose the sub that sounds the best to you, in your price range. I can take the label off of a AutoZone or Walmart brand sub and write 10,000 watts RMS on it. Don't ever choose a sub by its power handeling rating. Like Jim said, they are complete BS.

-Matt

 

You cant always rely on what stuff sounds like at stereo shops because of their boxes and listening space! Talk to people you know with systems. I have had good luck with punch speakers, mtx 6000 series dvc's, IMPP pioneer series, JL audio w6's, and solarbarics.

 

You can still get an idea of what the sub will sound like. High frequencies are going to behave very differently in your car than in a booth, but a sub won't be much different. The sound waves are so large that they don't get effected by the shape of your car. The only difference is that in the car you'll have the transfer function, which will change the output volume around a certain frequency, but won't change the overall characteristic of the sub.

My point is, if one sounds clean in the showroom, and another sounds thick, chances are they'll have the same characteristics in your car. Listening to them in the store may not be a perfect solution, but it's better than relying on your friends.