Crisp Clear bass
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Crisp Clear bass
Ok...alot of my friends have systems in there cars but they don't research what they are doing before they do it....they go by what it says in the Crutchfeild Mag and more is better. Yeah they do sound ok but the bass is no crisp and clear....like in a home system when the bas hits it HITs but it does not sound muddy or...i dunno...do u know what i mean. I am thinking this is b/c they are takes there subs and pushing them to the MAX.....Now i am to put 2 12s in there and i want it crisp and clear....Alipine Type Rs? Infinity Kappa?? RF Punch(not sure what one...i think the guy at E-town said something like DX or something....he had Type Rs and said they sound good and look GREAT but the RF sounded better. Can anyone help me out....also would a smaller encloser get me that bass that hits but does not sound muddy....like the Type-Rs only use .8 and the kappas 1. I really don't know what i am talkning about and want to know.
EDIT: It would be cool if ne one in the area could show me their system....i mean you can't screw up if you like a setup and you dumpicate it from a car just like yours. Also...do they sound muddy from trying to play bass that is at the "upper end" of their range or what?
EDIT: It would be cool if ne one in the area could show me their system....i mean you can't screw up if you like a setup and you dumpicate it from a car just like yours. Also...do they sound muddy from trying to play bass that is at the "upper end" of their range or what?
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Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 355 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Well I'd have to say go with your Type R's. Try to get an old style rockford amp or even a JBL 600 and it will push em nicely. And when you set up your stuff to sound good and crisp, first turn the cd player the volume of normal listening volume and then set your amp from there. Just play around with the gain and bass boost untill you like the sound your getting.
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i just read something that Jim85IROC posted about 10s and 12s ans the "speed"of the subs....ans he said that it is the real low octives that "stick around for half hour" that make it sound sloppy and you can put in an equilizer and play with it to get rid of that....that long low is what i dislike...it just mudds things up..i was also thinking of use the V12 amp..not sure if i sould get the one with 240 RMS when bridged into one for 249.99 or 300 for 299.99. would it make sense for me to give the subs all the can handle?
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While it's true that you can screw with 10s and 12s to make their sound change, the reason that most people's systems sound so thick and heavy is because they have stuff set up wrong. They don't know how to work the bass boost & gain control, and they stuff the subs into boxes that are too small. All that translates into crap sound. If you hear a well tuned system, even one without equalization, it will sound very crisp and clean without the drone that most teenagers' bass machines have.
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well jim....how can i obtain that????????????? What size box do you recommend...i know i can make one but the size is confusing to me...what subs and what amps....how much power? Just answering those basic questions would be very helpful. yes i did the search feature and i am still using it....
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The box size depends on the particular sub. Contact the sub manufacturer to see what they recommend. In terms of subs and amps, that's way to broad for me to make a suggestion. Go to a local shop (not a chain store), listen to stuff, and ask a lot of questions. If the salesman has half a brain, he'll figure out what will suit your tastes and will play it for you.
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sounds good....never thought of that even tho it does not take half a brain to figure that out....i am more into the mechanics of the car but i want to get into steroes too.
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Car: too many ...
So you're a sound quality man!! Good man good man!! Hehhehe .. I'm a SQ kinda guy myself. I would rather it sound clean for me inside the car, than sound loud for people outside the car. For good bass I would highly recommend JL Audio W6's. I have a single 10w6 in my truck and its the best sounding sub I've ever heard (better than my old setup 2 12's). The thing about good sound quality is its hard to find the right mix. Its easy to make stuff loud but when you need the right harmonics it becomes tough. Just make sure to run the correct sub in the correct box (like mentioned above). Lots of times people dont think about the enclosure even though the correct enclosure is just as important (if not more important!) than the sub itself.
Case in point ... Sound Demo @ a local audio shop ... 1000 watts rms to each enclosure ... first contestant is 3 12" Kicker subs (the square ones) in a bandpass box. The guy turns it on and it bumps ... then he goes over to contestant number two ... single JL audio 10w6 in a computer designed box made for home theature .... turns the single 10 on and not only does it drown out the 3 12's, it also rattles some of the roof pieces loose and they fall on people. The craziest thing is how the bass sounded .. not boggy ... not shallow ... very tight and very clean (straight to the heart!!) Now that might not really apply to our cars (being a computer designed box and all) but it just goes to show that how the enclosure is designed can play a really big part in how the sub will sound.
Good luck!!
Case in point ... Sound Demo @ a local audio shop ... 1000 watts rms to each enclosure ... first contestant is 3 12" Kicker subs (the square ones) in a bandpass box. The guy turns it on and it bumps ... then he goes over to contestant number two ... single JL audio 10w6 in a computer designed box made for home theature .... turns the single 10 on and not only does it drown out the 3 12's, it also rattles some of the roof pieces loose and they fall on people. The craziest thing is how the bass sounded .. not boggy ... not shallow ... very tight and very clean (straight to the heart!!) Now that might not really apply to our cars (being a computer designed box and all) but it just goes to show that how the enclosure is designed can play a really big part in how the sub will sound.
Good luck!!
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Install is the *key* part...that will make or break any system. A well thought out system will do awesome, and make any product sound amazing.
Any bad install will kill any speaker.
I would also suggest to follow the manufactures recommedations.
Problems nowdays is that most do not, and just spend alot of money on a good woofer, then add a cheap amp, cheap small wire, and the wrong sized, or type of eclosure. then blame the manufacture for building a terrible product.
Rule of thumb, we don't run into battle with the guns blazing without some thought of how we should do it.
Any bad install will kill any speaker.
I would also suggest to follow the manufactures recommedations.
Problems nowdays is that most do not, and just spend alot of money on a good woofer, then add a cheap amp, cheap small wire, and the wrong sized, or type of eclosure. then blame the manufacture for building a terrible product.
Rule of thumb, we don't run into battle with the guns blazing without some thought of how we should do it.
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Originally posted by Polecat
Install is the *key* part...that will make or break any system. A well thought out system will do awesome, and make any product sound amazing.
Any bad install will kill any speaker.
I would also suggest to follow the manufactures recommedations.
Problems nowdays is that most do not, and just spend alot of money on a good woofer, then add a cheap amp, cheap small wire, and the wrong sized, or type of enclosure. then blame the manufacture for building a terrible product.
Rule of thumb, we don't run into battle with the guns blazing without some thought of how we should do it.
Install is the *key* part...that will make or break any system. A well thought out system will do awesome, and make any product sound amazing.
Any bad install will kill any speaker.
I would also suggest to follow the manufactures recommedations.
Problems nowdays is that most do not, and just spend alot of money on a good woofer, then add a cheap amp, cheap small wire, and the wrong sized, or type of enclosure. then blame the manufacture for building a terrible product.
Rule of thumb, we don't run into battle with the guns blazing without some thought of how we should do it.
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holy crap....never looked into the 10w6s.....
Nominal Diameter: 10 inches (250 mm)
Continuous Power Handling: 300 Watts
Voice Coil: 2.5" diameter, 4-layer, Kapton former
Impedence: Dual 6 ohm
Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.47" (11.9 mm)
Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.40-0.80 cu.ft. (11.5-22.5 liters)
Ported Enclosure Range: 0.90-1.25 cu.ft. (25.5-35.5 liters)
So you say that I should go for the largest box recomended by the manufacturer? That would be .8 or should I aim for something like .7 or .6. Now it says they are Dual 6 ohm? How would i go about wiring two of these up and what ohms would i come out with?
***EDIT***
And for the amp to power it...what about 2 of these....??
https://www.onlinecarstereo.com/cara....asp?sku=11725
***2nd EDIT****
From what i can figure out the "bottom well" (the smaller area in the trunk at the bottom of the well) will provide me with JUST over 1 cubic foot of space with 5/8" MDF board and about an inch or so left on the outside of the box just as a "buffer zone" so i know it will fit..... so right there i have about .5 cu feet for two subs each....now if i go up some and extand out i have yet to figure out the vol i can get buy that....i want the subs to sit as low in the well as possible so i can keep as much room back there as possible. I remember DJ Sexay had made a box for his wifes thirdgen for 2 10s" and it sat low in the well and he put a 16 gauge grill over the whole thing so stuff could be put ontop of it. I like that idea. He sold that box to a member on this board before i could get my money out for it...i think he said it had around .7 cu feet of space per sub.....
Nominal Diameter: 10 inches (250 mm)
Continuous Power Handling: 300 Watts
Voice Coil: 2.5" diameter, 4-layer, Kapton former
Impedence: Dual 6 ohm
Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.47" (11.9 mm)
Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.40-0.80 cu.ft. (11.5-22.5 liters)
Ported Enclosure Range: 0.90-1.25 cu.ft. (25.5-35.5 liters)
So you say that I should go for the largest box recomended by the manufacturer? That would be .8 or should I aim for something like .7 or .6. Now it says they are Dual 6 ohm? How would i go about wiring two of these up and what ohms would i come out with?
***EDIT***
And for the amp to power it...what about 2 of these....??
https://www.onlinecarstereo.com/cara....asp?sku=11725
***2nd EDIT****
From what i can figure out the "bottom well" (the smaller area in the trunk at the bottom of the well) will provide me with JUST over 1 cubic foot of space with 5/8" MDF board and about an inch or so left on the outside of the box just as a "buffer zone" so i know it will fit..... so right there i have about .5 cu feet for two subs each....now if i go up some and extand out i have yet to figure out the vol i can get buy that....i want the subs to sit as low in the well as possible so i can keep as much room back there as possible. I remember DJ Sexay had made a box for his wifes thirdgen for 2 10s" and it sat low in the well and he put a 16 gauge grill over the whole thing so stuff could be put ontop of it. I like that idea. He sold that box to a member on this board before i could get my money out for it...i think he said it had around .7 cu feet of space per sub.....
Last edited by camaro6spd; 06-21-2002 at 09:03 AM.
#13
Look for some JL subs. mine may not be the biggest or baddest out there, but they sound great ... even when loud. They are pretty crisp and def loud. I think if you wanted reall really crisp bass your best bet would be 10's and not 12's. 3 10's would be sweet. my .02
#14
search the forums over at sounddomain.com, thats wat convinced me to get Image Dynamics IDQ subs, i was kinda skepitcal, then i listened to em in a friends car and all i can say was WOW lol very nice sub, awesome SQ imo.
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