stereo help needed!!
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From: Wall Township, NJ
Car: 1987 "1991 Z" Sport Coupe
Engine: LG4
Transmission: TH700R4
stereo help needed!!
hey....i know nothing about amps and subs and all that.......i am running tight on money and i was wondering how good of a system i could get for like 300-400 bucks......could u guys build me a good one of like a 4 channel amp and 2 12" subwoofers and maybe a capitior (spelling), that is if it is possible.....thanks a lot
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From: Somewhere around the South Side of Chicago just crusin' in one of the Niteriders
Car: 92RS 25th Anniv./88 IROC Z28 Vert
Engine: 305 TBI w/Tpi Air / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: Posi
YOU WON'T GET ALL OF THAT FOR $400.00.
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iTrader: (10)
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From: Somewhere around the South Side of Chicago just crusin' in one of the Niteriders
Car: 92RS 25th Anniv./88 IROC Z28 Vert
Engine: 305 TBI w/Tpi Air / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: Posi
Start with a good radio for about $250.00 to 350.00, a amp for around $150.00, Subs for $100.00 plus the box(who knows what his can cost). If you want to replace your rear 6x9 sail panels figure another $150.00 plus those front speakers for $60.00. Go to www.crutchfield.com and you will find it all. Send for a catalog. Visit some stores, you know Best Buy, Circuit City, etc. listen to some systems. Do some research, etc.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Wall Township, NJ
Car: 1987 "1991 Z" Sport Coupe
Engine: LG4
Transmission: TH700R4
oh wait, u thought 400 for all that.....no.....i already have a new headunit and speakers.....all i wanted u guys to do is pick me out a good 4 channel amp and 2 12" subs for me.....thanks tho
Last edited by bubbakutz; Dec 27, 2002 at 11:38 AM.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Wall Township, NJ
Car: 1987 "1991 Z" Sport Coupe
Engine: LG4
Transmission: TH700R4
the thing im confused with is like the wattage of the amp and then the wattage of the sub.....how do i figure that out.......for a 2 channel....what would be a good wattage for 2 12" subs?
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From: Huber Heights, OH
Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Well the subs really don't have a "wattage"... the "watts" rating on a sub is the speaker's maximum power handling capability... how much it can take.
If you really want to get into it check out this site: http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/ it has EVERYTHING about EVERYTHING about car audio.
Check out "Ohms Law" to help answer your question.
If you really want to get into it check out this site: http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/ it has EVERYTHING about EVERYTHING about car audio.
Check out "Ohms Law" to help answer your question. Thread Starter
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From: Wall Township, NJ
Car: 1987 "1991 Z" Sport Coupe
Engine: LG4
Transmission: TH700R4
ok, thanks for the info......i guess what i wanted u guys to do is like build me a 4 channel amp and 2 12" subwoofers......like give me a brand and model number......for 3 to 400 bucks...thanks
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From: Wall Township, NJ
Car: 1987 "1991 Z" Sport Coupe
Engine: LG4
Transmission: TH700R4
how does this setup sound....please hurry with an answer though....thanks....
2 Alpine Type R 12" SWR-1241D Subwoofer
Dual Voicecoils (4 ohms + 4 ohms)
Power Handling 1000 WATTS /300 WATTS RMS
1 VOLFENHAG ZX7180 2-CH 1600W COMPETITION AMP WITH DUAL VU METERS
AMP IS FULLY BRIDGEABLE AND 2 OHM STABLE. THIS IS FAN COOLED
SPL dB METERS FOR LEFT AND RIGHT ON TOP
2 x 800 Watts Max (2 Ohm)
2 x 320 Watts RMS (2 Ohm)
2 x 220 Watts RMS (4 Ohm)
1 x 620 Watts Bridged (1 Ohm)
Variable Bass Boost Level & Frequency: 0-18 dB @ 30Hz-100Hz
Variable High Pass Filter: 50Hz-1Khz
Variable Low Pass Filter: 530Hz-250Hz
2 Alpine Type R 12" SWR-1241D Subwoofer
Dual Voicecoils (4 ohms + 4 ohms)
Power Handling 1000 WATTS /300 WATTS RMS
1 VOLFENHAG ZX7180 2-CH 1600W COMPETITION AMP WITH DUAL VU METERS
AMP IS FULLY BRIDGEABLE AND 2 OHM STABLE. THIS IS FAN COOLED
SPL dB METERS FOR LEFT AND RIGHT ON TOP
2 x 800 Watts Max (2 Ohm)
2 x 320 Watts RMS (2 Ohm)
2 x 220 Watts RMS (4 Ohm)
1 x 620 Watts Bridged (1 Ohm)
Variable Bass Boost Level & Frequency: 0-18 dB @ 30Hz-100Hz
Variable High Pass Filter: 50Hz-1Khz
Variable Low Pass Filter: 530Hz-250Hz
Last edited by bubbakutz; Dec 27, 2002 at 11:56 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Wall Township, NJ
Car: 1987 "1991 Z" Sport Coupe
Engine: LG4
Transmission: TH700R4
please....someones gotta know if those 2 subs and amp will go good together???? i need to know like right away.....ebay.....thanks
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Wall Township, NJ
Car: 1987 "1991 Z" Sport Coupe
Engine: LG4
Transmission: TH700R4
ok, i am full of damn questions......as u can see i dont know crap.....for that amp that i mentioned above.....what type r's would be better......ones with 4 ohms + 4 ohms or ones with 2 ohms + 2 ohms???
My advice is to get the Alpine subs. You can get them for about $130 a piece at Ikesound.com last time i checked. Then from the same site you can get a JBL 600.1 amp for about $200. You can either get the 2 Ohm + 2 ohm or the 4 ohm+4ohm models.... either will work with that amp. The 2ohm + 2 ohm model can be wired like so. Wire each speaker in series (thus making each speaker a 4 ohm load) and then wire the 2 speakers together in parallel. This would make a 2 ohm mono load. OR If you got the 4ohm + 4ohm model then you would wire each speaker in parallel (making the speaker become a 2 ohm load) then you would wire the speakers in parallel to make a 1 ohm mono load. Or you would wire the speakers together in a series and this would make a 4 ohm mono load. Got that? LoL
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From: Wall Township, NJ
Car: 1987 "1991 Z" Sport Coupe
Engine: LG4
Transmission: TH700R4
im sorry the man metz......i totally lost u......when it comes to amps and subs i am like retarted....is that amp u described a 1 channel cuz i was hoping for a 2....
sorry but that site i think confused me even more with the ohms section....
Originally posted by FyreLance
Well the subs really don't have a "wattage"... the "watts" rating on a sub is the speaker's maximum power handling capability... how much it can take.
If you really want to get into it check out this site: http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/ it has EVERYTHING about EVERYTHING about car audio.
Check out "Ohms Law" to help answer your question.
Well the subs really don't have a "wattage"... the "watts" rating on a sub is the speaker's maximum power handling capability... how much it can take.
If you really want to get into it check out this site: http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/ it has EVERYTHING about EVERYTHING about car audio.
Check out "Ohms Law" to help answer your question. Thread Starter
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From: Wall Township, NJ
Car: 1987 "1991 Z" Sport Coupe
Engine: LG4
Transmission: TH700R4
do u think that some one can explain to me what the ohm thing is in laiman terms......hah, something that i would maybe be able to understand? thanks
i will give you specific information on your subs; this applies to other makes and models as well, but anyway...
you said you wanted to get 2 alpine type-r subs, the 4-ohm dual voice coil (DVC) model. that means that each subwoofer has 2 voice coils, and each is rated at 4 ohms impedance. your wiring options for each individual sub are as follows:
* if you wire the coils of ONE sub in parallel, you get 2 ohms
* if you wire the coils of ONE sub in series, you get 8 ohms
multiple subs work just like multiple voice coils:
* if you wire TWO parallel-coil subs (2 ohms a piece) in parallel, you get 1 ohm
* if you wire TWO series-coil subs (8 ohms a piece) in parallel, you get 4 ohms
* if you wire TWO parallel-coil subs (2 ohms a piece) in series, you get 4 ohms
* if you wire TWO series-coil subs (8 ohms a piece) in series, you get 16 ohms
basically, parallel divides your impedenance in half; series multiplies it by two. how does this help you? amps generally give out more power at lower impedances. for example, the JBL BP600.1 puts out 600 watts at 2 ohms, but only 300 watts at 4 ohms. fortunately for you, the BP series amps also are stable at 1 ohm--so you could wire everything together in parallel and achieve a 1-ohm "system", and you would be receiving 300 watts a piece from the amp, which is the most power you can get out of it. sorry for the length, but i hope this helps to answer your question.
you said you wanted to get 2 alpine type-r subs, the 4-ohm dual voice coil (DVC) model. that means that each subwoofer has 2 voice coils, and each is rated at 4 ohms impedance. your wiring options for each individual sub are as follows:
* if you wire the coils of ONE sub in parallel, you get 2 ohms
* if you wire the coils of ONE sub in series, you get 8 ohms
multiple subs work just like multiple voice coils:
* if you wire TWO parallel-coil subs (2 ohms a piece) in parallel, you get 1 ohm
* if you wire TWO series-coil subs (8 ohms a piece) in parallel, you get 4 ohms
* if you wire TWO parallel-coil subs (2 ohms a piece) in series, you get 4 ohms
* if you wire TWO series-coil subs (8 ohms a piece) in series, you get 16 ohms
basically, parallel divides your impedenance in half; series multiplies it by two. how does this help you? amps generally give out more power at lower impedances. for example, the JBL BP600.1 puts out 600 watts at 2 ohms, but only 300 watts at 4 ohms. fortunately for you, the BP series amps also are stable at 1 ohm--so you could wire everything together in parallel and achieve a 1-ohm "system", and you would be receiving 300 watts a piece from the amp, which is the most power you can get out of it. sorry for the length, but i hope this helps to answer your question.
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,700
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From: Wall Township, NJ
Car: 1987 "1991 Z" Sport Coupe
Engine: LG4
Transmission: TH700R4
ok......that helped some since it was in laiman terms....thanks.....but which would be a better way to wire.....in parallel or series?
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