Hey guys and gals whats up. I got a lil extra cash and now i want to put a 10 inch sub with an amp to make a little more bass over stock. I will still be using the stock headunit so having inline connections is a plus to the amps you suggest. Also Im not lookin to spend more than 350 dollars and i will be making my own box. The box what do you guys thing should i use 3/4 mdf or 1/2. Well thanks for the answers ppl . The system is for a 02 sentra just to give you an idea of the space available.

 

My rockford amps have the regular speaker wire (whit and gray) inline connections along witht the rca connections, That way you should be able to use the stack HU. I use 3/4 inch MDF for my boxes, and liquid nails to give it a perfect air tight seal.

 

The reason i asked this question is because ive been out of the audio scene for like 8 months and was wondering if ne new subs or amps were out for a decent price.

 

In my opinion, you would be happier getting a used amp from Ebay or classifieds, and buy a new sub. If you spend $50 on a box, and $100 or so on a sub, then that leaves enough for a good used amp, or a not so good new amp. Use 3/4" MDF for the box. 1/2" splits to easily.

 

ebay is a great resource for used stuff. i had gotten an old mtx amp for $75 that was spectacular. couldnt have bought anything close to it new. 3/4" MDF is a must. you can pick up a type-r 10" for around $100 (my personal favorite) and it'll be more than enough for what you're lookin for.

 

Try and take a look at the Infinity Basslink.

It's an all-in1 unit, box, amp, and 10in sub.
It's a super deal for the price, and it sound like exactly what you are looking for.

Plus it is under your price range

 

Yeah i was lookin at the infinity basslink(spelling?) , but i figured for the same amount of money i could maybe get something to hit harder that wasn't an all in one unit. I had something like the bass link in my formula made by alpine but i didnt like the fact that if i cranked up some of my music the amp would go into protect mode. Idk on monday im gonna go to my friends place of work and see what they have for sale. But the type r's hit good? I was thinking of gettting one of those and an alpine amp. Also should i go dual voice coil or single and should i wire it up 2 ohm 4 ohm exct.

 

See this is a hard one to do.
Reason one, if you turn up the music for extended periods of time, they will all go into protect mode, no matter what amp you have. Unless you got some kind of freezer on it.

If you go type r, defiantely get a 2ohm DV-Coil.

 

Thanks for the info, but how come my friends amps dont go into protect if you have it up for a while. Ive noticed some do and some dont and how you state it , it seems that it just the amp running hot so if i were to be able to cool it it would be ok (sorry for hte bad grammer just got home and its late)

 

You can put a fan on your amp to help cool it if you have overheating problems. But in my experience I've only had the thermal protection kick on if I'd left my car in the sun for several hours. If you get a more efficent amp, like the JBL series, you shouldn't have as many heat related problems. With the previous alpine unit, did it quit as soon as you went to max volume or was it over time. It could be that your power wire wasn't big enough. I'm surprised KJ didn't mention the volfenhag subs. The 10" ones can usually be had for about $65. A JBL 600.1 runs about $200. Figure about $50 for materials to build your box, maybe another $30 for a wiring kit. That would put you right about $350 after everything was all said and done.

 

Hey thanks for the info. I actually helped my friend install 2 15"volfenhagen subs in his cougar , they hit pretty hard but im not sure where to get em cause he got em at a swap meet. About my old system i has a 10 gauge set up which i thought was adequate for a 70 watt rms amp? and it would quit like maybe a minute or two and kick back on by itself. Are the jbl amps good because i havent seen ne in action and im gonna be purchasing all my stuff this week. Thanks for the info guys.

 

Is this sub good? Kicker 02S10L5 its there 10 inch square sub. or should i just get somether better in the traditional style that will pound better.

 

Volfenhag subs: www.cmttrading.com
JBL amp: www.ikesound.com or www.etronics.com
I have the JBL 600.1 and am very pleased. A lot of people on the board here have one and I have yet to hear one complaint.

I've run amps that were in excess of 70 watts rms with 10 gauge wire without any problems. You will need to run new wire for something like the JBL. At least 8 gauge maybe even 4 gauge, depending on how much power you're expecting the amp to crank out (i.e. if you're running the amp at 2 ohms I'd go with the 4 gauge).

 

Hey guys i bought my system and installed it yesterday. Heres what i got. 1 Alpine dvc 10" type R 1 Alpine MVR t 320 amp and i got lazy and bought a 3/4 mdf box too. It sounds great even though im running it off my stock headunit. I have a question thoguh why does the sub cut out if i put the bass up too much on the head unit or put the volume up too hi and then come back after a few seconds. I have the sub wired up 2 ohm should i make it 4 ohm and the amp is bridged. All the settings on the amp are in the middle for bass and gain and i have it set at 28 for the frequencey. Also will i gain a lot of sound quality if i switch from 24 gauge speaker wire and go to 10 gauge. Thanks.

By the way with the box and wiring kit my total cost was 317 was this too much.

 

Congratulations on getting your sub and amp

It doesn't sound too bad. How much was the box?


I would definently recommend increasing your wire size. I'm using 12 gauge, my brother is using 10.

Is the amp 2 ohm stable? If it's not that could be the problem. When you say you have the frequency set at 28, do you mean the low pass crossover? You may want to set it higher than that. Depending on the music you listen to you may want to go as high as 100 Hz. The best way to do it is to put on your favorite cd and then set the LPF at just above wherever the bass sounds good. For example, I like nine inch nails, so I'll put on the song closer, and set the LPF to its minimum. Then I'll bring it up slowly until I hear the kick drum. I'll keep bringing it up until I can hear everything that I wanted to from the subs (i.e. maybe there is a low synthesizer line that I want the subs to produce as opposed to the 6x9s). Then I turn the LPF down until it just starts to cut off some of the music, then turn it back up just a little, and there you go.

 

The box was only 40 dollars so i thought what the hell might as well get it. Well my power wire is 10 gauge but my speaker wire is 24 so i should switch to 12 and it should sound a little better? Also yeah the 28 was about the lpf and im guessing its 2 ohm stable because it works but not at hi volumes. Ill try wiring it at 4 ohms this weekend. Thanks later

 

An amp that isn't 2 ohm stable can work at 2 ohms at lower volumes, but won't at higher levels. For instance, lets say the volume on your head unit maxes out at 30. And the amp is designed to provide 300 watts rms. When properly configured the subs should recieve 300 watts with the volume at 30. For argument's sake we'll say that the subs recieve 150 watts at a voume of 15. Now at 2 ohms of resistance the amp is trying to put out 300 watts with the volume at 15. That means that with the volume at 30, it will try to put out 600 watts, it can't do that, so it goes into protection mode. So you could run the system all day long at a volume of 15 at 2 ohms without a problem.

 

So what your saying is i should wire it up at 4 ohms. Also im running the stock head unit thats not that bad is it? Well thanks for the quick reply

 

Using the stock head unit is fine. What you need to know is if the amp is 2 ohm stable. It may say it on the unit itself, but for sure in the documentation (owner's manual). If it is 2 ohm stable, then you don't need to rewire it. If it is not, then yes, you must run it at 4 ohms. According to crutchfield, your amp is 2 ohm stable and has an output of 220 watts. Are any of the protection lighs coming on when the amp cuts out?

 

joezero thank you for all your help your were 100% correct about the ohm's on the speaker. Crutchfield must be wrong because i went on alpine's website and they say that the amp is NOT stable at 2 ohms. So i rewired it and the type r sub i got can not be wired 4 ohm but only 8 atleast thats what the manual says so i have it at 8 ohms but it still pounds. Thank you very much for all your help.

 

Glad to hear it's working :rockon: :rockon:

 

Gals to see you got it working too.

It's nice to have sounds.


I hate my G/F SunFire. ****ty stock delco.....
Yuck.....

 

Once again thanks for helping. Last question i promise you think its worth it for me to return my sub and get the one i can wire up 4 ohm or should i not even worry about it.

 

It would depend on the price difference.

 

You will see bit of increase in SPL if you ran it at 4 ohms instead of 8. Like KJ said, I think the cost difference is more important. It won't hurt anything to run it at 8 ohms.

 

That ain't bad. My dad's saturn just has the factory am/fm radio. I don't understand it, he refuses to change it out. I have offered to buy a cd player and put it in his car but he won't let me do it.

 

If you ran a 4ohm sub you would (in theory) get twice the wattage to your sub. It should be a significant increase in output. You should be able to exchange the one you have for no extra cost. Any decent stereo shop would honor that.

When an amp is listed as being "2ohm stable", it generally means 2ohms per channel. If you were running a 2ohm load bridged, then the amp would be reacting to a 1ohm load which would put it into overprotection mode. (I know that info comes a little late, but it's the thought that counts right?)

 

thanks for the info and yeah it is the thought that counts i think lol jk nah im gonna call pc richard cause thats where igot it from and see if they'll exchange it.