*searched* Removing front speakers
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From: Tulsa, Okla
Car: Yellow '92 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
*searched* Removing front speakers
Bah, newbeee alert!
Anyway....front speakers in my '92 'bird rattle a bit....was wondering how to get to them? Chiltons says I need to remove the cluster, disable airbag, drop steering column, remove the whole dash basically. Surly there's an easier way. On a Fiero I used to have, all you had to do was pry up the speaker cover (broke the dash doing so, that's why I'm here asking before I do anything!).
Can someone help out a petty fool??
Anyway....front speakers in my '92 'bird rattle a bit....was wondering how to get to them? Chiltons says I need to remove the cluster, disable airbag, drop steering column, remove the whole dash basically. Surly there's an easier way. On a Fiero I used to have, all you had to do was pry up the speaker cover (broke the dash doing so, that's why I'm here asking before I do anything!).
Can someone help out a petty fool??
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
ive never done it, but id imagine you just have to remove the top dash pad.... a quick search confirmed that...
dash pad comes off pretty easily... you can see the screws if you look at it from undernieth.
dash pad comes off pretty easily... you can see the screws if you look at it from undernieth.
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
For a formula to get to the 4x6 dash speakers you have to remove the 4 screws by vents near center of windshield that attach dash pad to firewall. (Put down a rag so you don't drop them in the vent openings!) You will also have to remove most of the screws under the lip of the dash pad near the cluster and all the way do to the passenger end. There's screws that go up through the plastic and hold the dash pad on once you remove all the screws you should beable to lift the pad off giving access to the 4x6's. There will be 3 screws holding each one.... there's no screw hole for one corner up near the windshield. (too tight of area!).
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
all you need to remove is the dash pad and then the speakers themselves. If you plan on installing aftermarket speakers, check the tech article under the "TECH" section of this site. Fitting different speakers into firebird dashes can sometimes require special modifications.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Tulsa, Okla
Car: Yellow '92 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Well it already has nice Eclipse speakers up there....thing is something rattles by the driver 4x6 and I wanted to try to fix it.
Thanks for the help, BTW.
Thanks for the help, BTW.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Tulsa, Okla
Car: Yellow '92 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Originally posted by no1kicker
First get rid of the chilton's manual
First get rid of the chilton's manual
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From: Salem, NH
Car: 1999 Chevy Cavalier
Engine: 2.2
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: it's part of the transmission
get yourself these tools to make it easy:
cordless screwdriver, anything will do, just dont use too much power to re-install the screws.
everything you will be removing (in the dashpad and most everything else) will be 9/32" hex head screws, so get a 9/32" 1/4" drive socket or nut driver tip. a nice long extension helps too for those front screws, you can catch those with your hands, but the rag stuffed in the defrost vents is a good idea too.
the previous posts mentioned where those screws are, I'm sure there is more than 4 but they are all easy to get to and it's much easir than it looks.
find yourself a 45 degree 1/4" hex shaft joint (it's like a small differential for small drivers, it's fixed unlike a swivel so it doesn't move around too much) that's the best tool I've ever used for those hard to reach scwrews near the front and rear windows in cars. I don't own one, but I believe Northern tools carries them, snap-on more than likely has them too.
otherwise, you can use a 1/4" drive ratchet and 9/32" socket, or a small wrench or pliers if your not interested in new tools.
cordless screwdriver, anything will do, just dont use too much power to re-install the screws.
everything you will be removing (in the dashpad and most everything else) will be 9/32" hex head screws, so get a 9/32" 1/4" drive socket or nut driver tip. a nice long extension helps too for those front screws, you can catch those with your hands, but the rag stuffed in the defrost vents is a good idea too.
the previous posts mentioned where those screws are, I'm sure there is more than 4 but they are all easy to get to and it's much easir than it looks.
find yourself a 45 degree 1/4" hex shaft joint (it's like a small differential for small drivers, it's fixed unlike a swivel so it doesn't move around too much) that's the best tool I've ever used for those hard to reach scwrews near the front and rear windows in cars. I don't own one, but I believe Northern tools carries them, snap-on more than likely has them too.
otherwise, you can use a 1/4" drive ratchet and 9/32" socket, or a small wrench or pliers if your not interested in new tools.
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From: Northern NV
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27
What kind of rattleing are you hearing. It could be a number of things. There could be something stuck to the voice coil of the woofer like a screw. It could be a blown surround that is making noise. It could also be the woofers are being pushed too hard and the cone is rattleing on the wire (voice coil leads) that goes into the center of the speaker. I recommend taking the speakers out and inspecting them. Ounce out have them out hook them up to an amp so you can see them move and see if anything is upstructing their movement.
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