I just bought a new bazooka amp (800W) I don't remember the rms off hand, I'll find out and post it later. Anyway, it was working fine for about 2 months and then it began cutting out sparadically. The subs would be working fine, then all of a sudden they would cut out for a little while and then come back on again. At first I thought it was just a loose connection with the wires connecting to the back of the subs. I checked it out and it was the actual amp. It wasn't getting power. I checked all the wires, all the fuses and everything else I could think of. Nothing I did works, so right now the subs are sitting in my garage until I can figure it out. I had the wires routed to a capacitor and to the amp from there. The cap wasnt working either, but the amp still got power. So now nothing works. If any of you guys have any ideas to what the problem is, I would really appreciate your input. thanks a lot,

Steve

 

almost sounds like a loose connection on the inside of the amp.. perhaps something on the board.. Is the amp being viberated at all by the speakers?

 

it shouldnt be.... it is mounted to the flat part of the rear hatch just behind the seats... if that was the problem, how would i go about fixing it. could i take it apart myself, or should I try bringing it back to circuit city?

 

Have you tried running the amp with out the Cap? and see if it still cuts out.. if it does end up being the amp.. ya I'd check with where you got it.. and see what is required to either have it checked out or replaced.. it all depends on the type of warranty you have. There usually isn't much the average guy could deal with on the inside.. sometimes a connection could look perfectly fine.. and it could be at fault. Plus if it is still under warranty.. taking it apart your self would of course void that.

 

are bazooka amps decent?

 

I have a Bazooka 8" amplified Bass cannon.. I like it.. it packs a decent punch with only 35watts.. I'm not into "high power" systems like others.. and this does a great job in providing the bass I wanted. plus it doesn't take up a lot of room in the back.

 

Have you checked the wires with a meter? Check them all with one, the turn on lead wire, power wire and ground wire. Also how did you have the subs wired? Are they dvc subs wired into an imp the amp could not handle?

 

It could be that your amp is not grounded good. The ground wire should not be more than 3' maybee 4'. Then make sure that where it is grounded is a good conection to the metal. You might need to use a wire brush or something, just make sure that it is not haveing to go through paint to get grounded. And touching just a little bare metal is not good enough, it is very important that it is grounded good.
Hope this helps.
Ryan

 

good sugestion slick00m. What kind of amp is it exactly. Brand? Power? Channels? Brand will make the most different. Alot of "internet" amps die for no reason other than poor build quality. Let me know what kind it is I may be able to offer some insite I have fixed a couple of crappy pyramid amps that had similar symptoms. They had caps that had been torn off the pcb, in an offroading accident.

 

I have had this problem,

First thing you should do is buy a voltage tester from your closest auto part store, the one with the needle works just fine for 14 bucks, the one for 50 that has a digital display, ehh not for me.

Anyway I used that to test for 12 volts where ever I poked it. Turned out the power wire wasnt getting but 3 volts. Just ya know, stab the wire with the red pin and touch some metal ground on your car with the black pin. So I traced it back all the way to the fuse box that was attached to the power wire. The fuse on the thick power wire that goes dirrectly to my battery was the problem. THe fuse was good, but the box that held it had a short. So I just cut that little box off, put the wires together, taped it up and it works fine. But I dont think I ever would have known if I didnt have that voltage tester.

Tip if you dont know how to use the voltage tester for this. Set the dial on 50 or somewhere around 50, look on the reading (dial version) that goes from 0 ( on the left) all the way to 50 ( on the right) thats the line you need to look at, when you test, make sure it goes near where 12 should be inbetween 0-50. All in all, they are pretty easy to figure out.

 

I did try running it without the cap, and it still had the same problem. I'll check the ground wire, but it's been fastened securely in the same spot and hasnt become loose, maybe it is the length like you said... I'm sure my dad has a voltage meter, actually i know he does. I'll play around with that for a little while and see what i can find. I guess if none of these things work i'll just bring it to circuit city and see if i can exchange it. I'll post anything as soon as i get to it... thanks for all the input, guys.

Steve

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by redbird_400

First thing you should do is buy a voltage tester ,,,,,,,,, Boy i wish i would of said that.

 

I Had the same problem with my amp it was because the amp was overheating it's A built in safety feature to keep it from burning up

 

If you wire your amp(s) correctly, like not driving a amp that is not 2 ohm stable to 2 ohms anyway,Your amps should not over heat to the point of shut down.