well some of the companies offer warranties but its only from professional installations. That means I should have some pro place install it for me and give me a slip and I should be good? I dont know why I should pay the extra money on an install I could do myself. damn I hate that. Im gonna end up looking into it.

Nate

 

Nate,
Usually that is speakers, there are so many ways to get the install wrong (wiring, box, application, etc.) and they have little ways to protect themselves.

An amplifier has a number of protection circuits, like short circuit (your speaker wires touch), dead short (your power wire shorts to ground) reverse polarity (you hook up the 12 volt to ground and ground to 12 volt), over and under voltage (voltage too high and too low) and too low impedance (you try to push the amp harder than you should).

Most of the regular lines out (MTX, Rockford Fosgate, JBL, Infinity) don't punish the DIY guy.

Juan

 

well I was looking at the ebay store thing warranty. Not the actual jbl one.

Nate

 

anyone got anything else to add?

Nate

 

I was thinking a Xennon 600.1 monoblock and a pair of Tantrum 300 RMS subs. Single coil. Wire it for 2 ohms and get more or less exactly what the amp/subs push.(300rms per sub). I was also thinking of a JL audio box with the red oval in the middle they look pretty sweet. But I dont know if I neccessarily want ported. I might just have a local shop make a knockoff non ported for me since I dont know if I should try myself. Though I might do that If someone can think of the dimensions and such. I may ask Jim about making me something if the shipping doesnt kill me. Im gonna look around for prices on the box today.

Let me know what you guys think. I was going to go for JBL but Id rather match up the amp with the sub.

Nate

 

my suggestion:
2- Resonant Engineering RE-10's www.reaudio.com $69/ea direct from them if there is no retailer in your area.
They handle 175WRMS.
Paired with a Phoenix Gold Octane-R 5.0:1 http://www.cbrstereo.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=484
That should leave you money left over for a proper box

But I don't think it has been mentioned, Punchy tight bass is a function of inductance not diameter of the driver.
Check this... http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Tech...ooferSpeed.pdf

 

na thansk i think ill go with PG for now. Anyway I really havent decided for sure yet.

 

as for the comment about 10s being just as fast as say 12s 15s hell lets even say 18s. Look theres more woofer to push and the bigger the woofer the more sloppy its gonna sound. We all heard 15s and 10s and there is clearly a difference.

I skimmed through that article a bit but it seems that woofer size IS a factor. There is a reason why theres different sizes of woofers you know.

Bah..Ill have my opinion, youll have yours. But a 8inch a 10 inch and a 15 inch will sound totally different even if they had all the same drivers and such.

Nate

 

That's like saying a 4 banger that runs a 15.1 quarter mile is "faster" than a V8 that runs a 15.1 quarter mile.

Hz is cycles per second. If a 10" sub is playing 20 Hz and a 18" is playing 20 Hz, they are both playing 20 Hz. They are both as "fast" as each other.

Now, bigger drivers are usually not as efficient, so they aren't as "punchy", but "fast" isn't the word you want to use.

Either way, I would use 10" or 12" drivers.

Juan

 

ya. Maybe I worded it wrong whatever anyone wants to take it as but there is clearly a difference between 10s and 15s. Snappy, puchy, sloppy, whatever you wanna say. Different sizes have different sounds.

Nate

 

now lets get back to the original topic...

I looked into the sub box I kinda want today. Tweeter or curry audio would both charge me 300.00 to build a JL HO wedge knockoff sealed. Im gonna be filling it with 2 10inch PG subs (TX10s) and a 600.1 Xennon amp.

If anyone can build me a JL knockoff(the one with the red inside.) for less then 300 shipped let me know.

Jim said it would prolly be like 225+50 shipping. so beat that please. Id be willing to spend like 150-225 including shipping.

Nate

 

The topic is education--- which you seem to need a lot of...
The bigger diameter woofer will play louder--lower.
The inductance and BOX are the determining factors of slopiness.
The box controls the woofer. The inductance moves the woofer.

You ask for help, then you come off as a total fuçking ***.
Whatever man, Take you money and blow it instead of doing the research.
Later

 

I dont think I ever came across as an *** but its all good. like I said youve got your opinion Ive got mine. I just dont prefer a 15 or 18 over a nice 10. The reason like I said Im getting rid of my sonys is well Im tired of them.(looking for something better) and Im looking for 10s for more snappy, tight bass which I MYSELF dont believe alot of 15s or even 12s can offer.

Look I didnt mean to come off as an *** but I just disagree that 15s and above dont sound sloppy and bad.

I DO appreciate the help and would appreciate a little less hostility.

I dont think Id be neccessarily blowing 500+$ on quality stuff. I am getting like a 600.00 amp and 200.00 each subs at alot lower of a price. Phoenix gold is nothing to laugh about.

ehh im done my little rant.

thx.

Nate

 

I would like to point out that I have never heard a 15 or 18 in a sealed box that didn't impress the crap out of me... low bass and tight response... but as you said earlier, it's your own opinion...

good luck

but I'd say that our cars are harder to get the "punch" because all the rattles, and the fact that we have a hatch to reflect the bass off of, reduces our punch ability... since all the bass pretty much has to reflect off the glass first... when I open my hatch, my bass sounds like it is completely turned off, even when I turn it up... the more the glass vibrates, the more bass you lose, that's why I'd go with down or rear-facing subs.

 

ya Ive got a trunk right now obviously in the cutlass Ive got them facing toward the trunk lock. Should I cut some holes in the rear deck to make it sound better? What would that do? Maybe like some home made ports there?

Nate

 

ahhhh the cutlass...

well I would put the box as far close to you as possible, and point them towards the rear of the car... firing horizontally...

I would not worry too much about the rear deck, unless you never plan on puttin in the 6x9's which help fill in that missing midbass you lose because your subs are in a trunk...

get some good 6x9's in the deck, and depending on your setup, get some nice 4" coxials for each door, then the standard 4x6 plates for up front... all of these can be cheap

or even the 4x6 coaxials if are doing this for REALLY cheap...

A car with a lot of speakers can blow you away! my '84 Buick Park Avenue had 8 speakers stock, and even on its last leg, the headunit still packed a punch!

I was sadly disappointed when I upgraded the headunit, because it turned out that in that year, the 8 channel amp was built into the headunit, not externally... man that was bad! I only had front door and rear deck sound...

and if you don't cut the rear deck and leave it intact... you can get deeper bass, because that annoying midbass won't reach your ears... a natural bass cutoff in combination with your deck/amp cutoffs can work well... sometimes I REALLY wish we had a regular trunk, it seems to 3x the bass volume and increase the bass frequency (low-end)

 

hehe cool. Ill prolly just keep the system the way it is for a while after I install the phoenix stuff. Im prolly gonna get a new car after the winter and cold weather is bad time to install car audio stuff also. I think I might look for a 350 cutlass or monte carlo ss. I was leaning towards a national but theyre expensive and prolly alot on insurance.

Thanks for the advice though. Ill prolly do that kinda stuff to my next project.

Nate

 

did u mean put the box towards the backseat more firing towards the opening to the trunk? Cuz the way I have it now theyre basically next to the trunk latch firing away from me so it bounces and comes back.

Nate

 

no no no... you want to put a huge space between the speaker and the rear of the trunk, so the wave has more to travel and spread out... I don't know the exact physics of it all, but I know that the more space between YOU and the WAVE, makes it deeper and louder.

push the box towards the rear seats, firing towards the rear bumper, and I bet you'll be happy.

 

ok Ill give it a try.