OK i bought this PowerAcoustik 12" FUBR series sub, and i was wondering if u guys could help me out in pickin an amp out for it. I dont need a multi-channel amp, and it doesnt need to be like 1500watts. I just want something that will power the sub decently and sound good. also i dont need to wait up the neighbors 5blocks away, although 1 block would be ok. AND one big factor....i want it to be cheap. so if u guys could post up some amps that are cheap and maybe on the web i could order it!

you generally want to match the RMS of the amp with the RMS of the sub. Im sure some guys on here know what works well with your sub. Im not too familiar with it though.

Nate

ok...any of u other guys know what i need? and is ohms bad or good like the higher the number...is good right?

*** i hate to bump this....but i wanna order an amp today.

First off, there is no "good ohms, bad ohms." Ohms is jsut the level of electrical resistance. So your sub has a resistance of 2-ohms. Since you only have one sub, this shouldn't be a problem. It's RMS power reating is 900 watts, according to thezeb, so you could go with a monoblock amp thats 2-ohm stable and makes around 900 watts RMS. Buy a decent name brand amp. Dont buy crap like Sony, Legacy, Bazooka, Lanzar, Jensen, etc. Alpine makes good amps, as does Pioneer, MTX, Hifonics, JBL, etc.

Agreed; and the way you avoid cheap amps is by comparing their "output" to their price:

"1000 watts for $70" = cheap amp
"200 watts for $150" = good amp
"100 watts for $300" = excellent amp

Your sub has two voice coils, 2 ohms each, correct? That's going to limit you to buying either a 1 channel amp (you'll see a spec like 120x1) or a 2 channel amp (spec looks like 60x2, 50x2, etc). If you get a 2 channel bridgeable amp, make sure the amp is "bridgeable to [some number]x1 @ 4 OHMS". Make sure it's got that "@ 4 ohms" on the amp spec.

Connect a wire from the (+) of one voice coil to the (-) of the other voice coil. That puts your voice coils in series, and makes them act as ONE normal voice coil. Now you've got a (+) and a (-) left. These will go to your new amp.

If you have a single channel (something X 1) amp, just connect the (+) of the sub to the (+) of the amp, and the (-) to the (-). If you have a dual channel bridgeable, follow the directions for bridging the amp.

I'd say spend at least $150-$200. You might be able to get some good deals at stores since summer's over. Look for bonus toys like an "adjustable low pass crossover" or "adjustable bass boost". And remember to spend at least $30 on a set of RCA cables, and $20 for a power cable & fuse set. Never go cheap on wires... you'll only wind up with noise.

ok this is what i bought. http://www.cardomain.com/item/POWLT14402 its the power acoustik lt14402 rated at 720watts@1 at 4omhs...yea my sub is rated at 700watts rms...and 1800watts max. right now im havin trouble thinkin of a design for the sub box. because i want it to fit in the well on that second legde thing. does anyone have and blueprints or numbers they can give me to make a 1cubicfoot box that just takes up the lower well? Plzzzzz

Well everyones got their own opinions but I think the noise matters more on installation then the price of the RCAs and power cable. As long as the power cable is 4 gage and the RCAs are decent. I paid like 30.00 at walmart for a good set. I dont get any noise.

Oh ya dont put power and rcas next to each other that will solve buzzing noise issues too.

Nate

Nate, that's the figure I always say! $30 for an RCA set is my "motto".

I went a little insane on my car... power cables go down the driver's side, against the sill panel and along the side of the car. RCA's go down the exact middle of the car, under the carpet. Speaker wires go down the passenger side, against the sill and along the side of the car.

7plagues, looks like a good amp, especially since the retail was $300. (Price is more of an indicator of amp quality).

Tip: If you have to cross a power cable over an RCA cable, or RCA over a speaker wire, or any combination of crossing wires, always tape them to the floor in a "+" figure. Like Nate said, running wires next to each other will cause noise (it's physics). Crossing them in a "+" shape is also physics- and it ensures that absolutely NO noise will happen. (It's all about magnetic fields)

Example; screwing your amp to a carpet-covered board. After you drill holes in the board to poke the wires thru, on the bottom of the board that nobody sees, if the wires have to cross over each other, tape the wires in a "+" position where they cross. You can also use two plastic wire ties... see pic attached.

I didnt pay 30 for just the RCAs tomP. I paid 30 for RCAS, 4 gage power, fuse etc. Basically all the wiring.

Nate

If price is a good indicator for amp quality i'll sell you a 150watt amp for 300.00