WHICH WOULD BE BETTER CHOICE 3 12" RF PUNCH STAGE 2 OR 2 12" RF PUNCH STAGE 3 BOTH WOULD BE IN A SEALED BOX CUASE IVE HEARD RF SUBS GET SLOPPY IN PORTED I LISTEN TO RAP 99 % OF THE TIME ALSO WITH THE SUB AND ABP COMBINATION I GOT GOING I WILL SAVE 70 DOLLARS IF I GET THE 3 12" RF PUCH STAGE 2 SETUP 70 DOLLARS IS NOT A BIG FACTOR FOR ME BUT I WOULD LIKE TO SAVE IF I CAN I WANT MY SETUP TO BE AS LOUD AS I CAN GET IT TO BUT TO THE POINT WHERE I CAN STILL HEAR THE WORDS THANKS

 

just go with the 3-12'' subs if you like a lot of bass that extra 12'' will give you more poundage but also you can control the bass so it doesn't over power the words especially if you get a deal on it why not

 

RF is so entry level. especially stage 1/2 and any of the punch series. i actually think that was my 1st set of subs i ever got. haha. like $100 a sub or something close to that a couple years ago.

anyway, if your gonna go wtih 3 RF subs and your looking for a lot of bass. youd better be spending a high amount on a quality amplifier thats gonna push umm at least to there perspective rms rating. also, if your worried about not hearing your mids and highs, BUY NEW SIDE SPEAKERS! and hook up a 4 channel amplifier to them. will tremendisly help out if u go that route.

 

THANKS FOR THE REPLIES IS BOSS AMPS ANY GOOD I CAN GET GOOD DEALS ON THEM IF I GOT BOSS AMPS MATCHED UP FOR THEM THE FOR THE STAGE 2 EACH SUB WILL GET 200 WATS RMS FROM THE AMP WHICH IS THE RMS FOR THESE SUBS AND THE STAGE 3 WOULD GET 540 RMS FROM THE AMP AND THE RMS FOR THE SUB IS 500 IM GETTING 6BY9 INFINITY KAPPA IN THE REAR AND 4 BY 6 INFINITY KAPPA PLATES IN THE FRONT POWERED BY PANASONIC HEAD UNIT FEEDING ALL THE SPEAKERS 25 CONTIOUS WATTS SO YOU GUYS THINK THE 3 12" STAGE 2 WOULD BE LOUDER THEN THE 2 12" STAGE 3

 

If you want a SUB that is gona give you super base and such and you want one of the best go with the MTX Jackhammer.
22" accross at 23" tall. 320 lbs of speaker at 6000watts RMS and 12000 watts peak

 

lmfao. that sub is such a piece of ****(other word for crap). mtx is so damn desperate for retailers now. .. by the way i work in a car audio shop and talked to a mtx rep 2 days ago. kthx. mtx doesnt even have an amp that can push it. so far its "in the making" which pretty much means its a one shot deal. buy the sub then you have to buy the amp to power it. or vise versa. its rediculous. theres no point.

if u cant tell im not a big fan of mtx. they've never impressed me with anything theyve ever put out and really the company in intself has no general dirrection of where its going with its amplifiers and subs.


really though the only amp pretty much capable or powering something like that thats actually ont he market would be the new memphis mojo .. which i guess technically hasnt been released yet so i guess its not on the market yet. but it has a MINMUM of 340 amps of current draw. its garanteed to pull at least that much power whcih translates at 12 volts to a rough 4080 watts continious/MINIMUM

 

So basically the sub is junk in your opinion because there is not a single amp ap on the market that can drive it all by itself on the market. Which i would not doubt. but with so many different people out there i am sure if some electrical engineer got bored and deceided to build an amp. it could be done and then the power potential of the sub could be realized. I am sure that a car with 26 subs in it draws plenty of contant power as well. so if you are serious about car audio on a competition lvl, then power consumption is not a huge concern because you have already taken it into acount.


So basically saying a sub is crap just because there is nothing to power it does not say a whole lot really. because you would never have actually heard the sub perform to it's full potential. With tech in that field growning as it does, I am sure it will not be long until someone sees it and decides that larger amps to power subs such as that would be needed in the future.. or at the least a much more effiecint subs that give more performance for less energy used

 

Minimum? So this amp draws 340A at idle? I'm not sure what u'r trying to say, but I do know that a 340A draw at 12V is NOT 4080WRMS. Amps are not 100% efficient... a typical Class D sub amp would make about 3400WRMS w/ that current draw.

Anyway, getting back to the original question... if u want loud bass, u have to move a lot of air. The amount of air a sub can move is primarily determined by cone area and excursion. I'm guessing the Stage 3 have more excursion, but probably not enough to make up for the 50% increase in cone area of 3 12s vs 2 12s. So the 3 12s would be louder, but it will also be more complicated to set up the ohm load so it's a good match w/ the amp (are the Stage 2's DVC or SVC, and what ohm coils are they?) It will also be heavier, take up more space, etc. It's up to u if it's worth it or not, but it's just something to keep in mind before u make a decision.

I've never heard anything good about Boss amps. Their power ratings are way inflated, they distort easily, and the build quality sux.

The Panasonic HU isn't putting out 25WRMS... the only HUs that can do that are Alpines and they require a direct connection to the battery to do it becuz the stock harness can't handle that kind of current draw. It's probably more like 17WRMS. I agree w/ Ryan... if want to hear the words, amp the mids -- don't make the bass quieter! Sounds like u already have decent speakers, but they'll sound a lot better w/ an amp.

 

another thing about the mojo. if your gonna be running an amp like that. the people that are going to be using it are not going to be on a 12v battery system. they're more than likely to be running up n above around 18volt. the memphis mojo is actually discontinued at this current moment but will be released again when the upgrades are finished. have you ever seen the mtx jackhamer? its like a big chunk of aluminum. its ugly as fck. personally if i wanted to spent a butt load of money like that id just go wtih memphis mojo subs and then the mojo amp. would definitly rock anyones world.

 

Getting back on topic:
1. I'd rather have one good sub than even 3 crappy ones. If you're considering volume, look at Xmax and the diameter of the sub. Two 12's that have a 6mm Xmax will theoretically be as loud as one that has a 12mm Xmax (IF all other considerations are equal).
2. I'd also rather have an amp that sounds good rather than one that sounds like crap and brags about a high RMS it can't produce.

 

i dont think the Rockford punch stage 2 subs are crap since ive personally heard them in my freinds mustang and for only one sub 12" there pretty loud and really clean in his sealed box hes gettin his second one installed this weekend so i can only imagine it should be nice i never heard a boss amp personally but from the reveiws on sounddomain for boss riot amps they sound like some decent quality amps i mean yea there no ppi, jl or xtant amp but there no were close to a jenson or pyrimad so does anyone or has anyone owned a boss riot or boss amp period also
ok heres the combonation of subs im thinkin about getting and the price please tell me what would be the loudest setup in a sealed box clean sounding not the cleanest but clean and wisest choice also a sub that hits low
(3) Rf punch stage 2 12"-$248
(2) Rf punch stage 3 12"- $300
(2) Jbl gto 1220 - $243
(1) xtant x 12" -$254
(2) mtx thunder5500 12"- $255


(1) mtx thunder7500 15"-$255

 

ive also heard some good things about the orion p-series sub and the diamond audio cm3 sub how are those compared to the rest i would get 2 12" diamond audio subs for $222 and 2 orion 12" subs for $257

 

or 2 2002 kicker l7 factory renewed-325
does anyone have anyone of these products that they would like to sell or does any one have a adire brahma 12" or 15" they would like to sell

 

One 12 Solo Baric X will pound. A person in New York has one in his trans Am and he hits 168.00 DB he also has kicker 2 KX2500.1

 

RF is overpriced. Id look into something more higher quality and not overpriced

Ebay is a good place to look.

 

I'd buy an Adire Shiva - great bang for the buck and good sound quality, too.

 

You can get an Ascendant Audio Atlas 12" right now for $100...can't really beat that IMO...

http://www.ascendantaudio.com/

Other subs to consider:
Elemental Designs 13.Kv2 - $125
Resonant Engineering's RE12 - ~$70 or their SE12 - ~$170
Adire Shiva 12" - $125

 

Those are all good choices.

 

how much would a re se 15" be

 

wat do you think will be louder 2 12" atlas, 1 15" avalance, 1 15" re se

 

how much is a 15" re sx would that be louder compared to the rest

 

Keep in mind the bigger and more subs you use the bigger the box needs to be. IMO unless you want to do exstensive fabbing to trunk area at most you should go with a pair of 12s. You can fit 15s and even atleast one has done 18s but either you need to do alot of custom work which if thats what you want to do is fine or if you build a box that fits in the well area you will not get the full potential of the sub due to lack of airspace. so comaring 1 15 to 2 12s isn't as easy to compre as what your trying to do. Me personally biggest I have ever ran was 1 12 and got loud enough for me.

 

I'm happy with my single JL Audio 12" W3v2 at 300W RMS. It does the trick - box is about 1.25 ft^3. I still have a bit of trunk space for a couple overnight bags if I need it.

 

JL is another good choice, just quite a bit higher price range. I have a 12W6v2 in a 1.25 cu. ft. box powered by a JL 500/1 in my truck and I love it!

 

JL is a bit expensive for what you get, but you can't go wrong otherwise. They make high quality subs and amps.

 

uh... was his designed by NASA or something? powered by a jet turbine?



Read this article...

"Troy Irving's 18-year-old Dodge Caravan has a heck of a sound system: 72 amplifiers -- you got it, 72 -- and 36 big 16-volt batteries to put out the 130,000 watts of power needed to rumble his nine 15-inch subwoofers."

he got 158.2db

the WORLD record is 177db... something has me doubting that guy, with a SINGLE solo baric, in a TRANS AM is hitting 168db...

maybe it was a type-o?

 

Yeah, I agree w/ Scrap - it sounds like BS to me.

 

I could belive it if it was in a diff vehicle. 169 with a 10 has been acheved, but it wasn't in a hatchback car

 

two words, subwoofer effeciency....
1 guy with 1 dd sub hit 170, im not saying he did it or anything, but it is possible imo.....with the right box, amp, car, etc, its possible, sub effeciency is when 1 sub hits 150db then some guy with 2 subs hits 15?<---higher than 150, (or whatever), then another guy with 3 subs hits 15?<---higher than 153, im not trying to start anything, and correct me if any of that stuff is wrong, im trying to remember from some article i read way back.........traksta15

 

Show me the article. There is no way. Let's pick a sub with pretty good efficiency, say 93 dB, and look at the math:
93 dB = 1 watt

96 dB = 2 watt

99 dB = 4 watt

102 dB = 8 watt

105 dB = 16 watt

108 dB = 32 watt

111 dB = 64 watt

114 dB = 128 watt

117 dB = 256 watt

120 dB = 512 watt

123 dB = 1024 watt

126 dB = 2048 watt

I doubt there is a single sub that can reasonably handle 2048 watts AND transfer all of that power to making sound (none of it to heat), but let's say it can.
I'll humor you and double that power to get

129dB=4096 watts

We can add up to 16 dB for the transfer function of a hatchback

145dB

We can also say it's in a pretty big bandpass box (impossible in our cars) that adds up to 10dB

155dB

and add up to 6 dB for mic placement on the dash

161 dB
TOPS

That's if everything is perfect.
Not happening....

 

here this is a perfect example of its all on the install.

 

okay, can someone answer me this...

what frequency do these people play the sound at?

is everyone required to play the same frequency?

if not, then it seems trivial to me, because I could get a horn and play 15khz all day long at 200db and win the world record...

I'd think that an SPL competition should be below 30hz, because it's harder to get speakers to output high volume at high excursion low frequencies... you have to have quality speakers and a good setup...

what are the requirements? (not that I would ever dream of actually building a system that only plays one tone)

 

I was also assuming that he used a real car.... His alternator probably broke because the engine wasn't powerful enough to run it properly....
In all seriousness, the car was probably designed with a rediculously large transfer function. I would also guess that the better part of the car is used for the box, and the energy is focused at the point in the car where the readings are made. If you opened one of the doors of that car, it probably wouldn't reach past 140's or 150's.
This really makes me wonder why some competitors use multiple subs and hundreds of thousands of watts to get to 170dB when all you need is one sub, a couple amps, and the right clown car... But this isn't possible in a third gen.