finally its done, back seat amplifier
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From: okotoks Alberta
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: T-56 LT1
Axle/Gears: 3.42
finally its done, back seat amplifier
here it is boys and girls. i'm happy with it, might do something about the cut edge of the carpet around the plexiglas, thinking might sew some vynle which i used inside the box and have it wrap around to the back. so I will have the material actually cover a little more of the plexiglass as i had to pull it tight and use some 2 sided tape. and I will put velcro on the back as well
hope you enjoy, cheers
blake





for my full system outline, you can visit my page at
my 91 camaro site, on the stereo page
hope you enjoy, cheers
blake





for my full system outline, you can visit my page at
my 91 camaro site, on the stereo page
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,800
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From: Bremerton, WA
Car: 1992 RS / 1989 RS
Engine: 3.1L MFI / Vortec 383 TBI
Transmission: T5 / LS-T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open / 3.73 Eaton posi
Looks great!
I wish I could do the same with my amplifier, it's about the same size, but I have a 4-piece back seat. I'm thinking of redesigning the sub box and "flying" the amp over the woofers. Maybe sometime after tax return.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Very nice work
I actually converted over to a solid rear so that I could mount my amps back there. I wouldn't have problems fitting them in a split rear (they're fairly small), but I also wanted room to mount my crossovers, distro blocks, etc
Originally posted by Al Hasse
Looks great!
I wish I could do the same with my amplifier, it's about the same size, but I have a 4-piece back seat. I'm thinking of redesigning the sub box and "flying" the amp over the woofers. Maybe sometime after tax return.
Looks great!
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 960
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From: Wichita KS
Car: 1987 GTA/1998 Explorer
Engine: 355, trick flow heads, zz409 cam, 3
Transmission: 700r4, shift kit, valve body
Axle/Gears: precision 3.73's, auburn diff
mines bigger
i'd like to do that, but i've got split seats, and i dont think either one of my amps would fit in one, MAYBE the diamond. i think im gonna have to build an amp rack and some more weight in the back
i'd like to do that, but i've got split seats, and i dont think either one of my amps would fit in one, MAYBE the diamond. i think im gonna have to build an amp rack and some more weight in the back
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,800
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From: Bremerton, WA
Car: 1992 RS / 1989 RS
Engine: 3.1L MFI / Vortec 383 TBI
Transmission: T5 / LS-T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open / 3.73 Eaton posi
Originally posted by Gummie
Very nice work
I actually converted over to a solid rear so that I could mount my amps back there. I wouldn't have problems fitting them in a split rear (they're fairly small), but I also wanted room to mount my crossovers, distro blocks, etc
Very nice work
I actually converted over to a solid rear so that I could mount my amps back there. I wouldn't have problems fitting them in a split rear (they're fairly small), but I also wanted room to mount my crossovers, distro blocks, etc
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Thread Starter
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From: okotoks Alberta
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: T-56 LT1
Axle/Gears: 3.42
its not o gauge its actually 4 gauge into the dist blocks, then 8 gauge (2) for each pos and negative into the amplifier.
other amplifier (4 channel one) I'm going to put in the back cubby hole area. just hidden away
other amplifier (4 channel one) I'm going to put in the back cubby hole area. just hidden away
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,281
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
what kind of power are these amps? 8AWG is actually a little small for some amps... 4AWG is pushin' it sometimes... but as long as it's not too long 4AWG it's alright...
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From: okotoks Alberta
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: T-56 LT1
Axle/Gears: 3.42
viper d.2500.1
something like 2000 rms @ 2 ohms bridged
it has dual connections for Positive and negative
so two 8 gauge in, 2 8 gauge ground
I see the connections are bigger, can accpept 4 gauge,
something like 2000 rms @ 2 ohms bridged
it has dual connections for Positive and negative
so two 8 gauge in, 2 8 gauge ground
I see the connections are bigger, can accpept 4 gauge,
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
so you are powering, what, (5) 18" Brahmas?
and you would for sure need 0AWG or bigger...
your amplifier draws over 160 amps... so I guess you probably have two yellowtops along with at least one powermaster alt, or some custom high amp alternator?
and you would for sure need 0AWG or bigger...
your amplifier draws over 160 amps... so I guess you probably have two yellowtops along with at least one powermaster alt, or some custom high amp alternator?
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From: okotoks Alberta
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: T-56 LT1
Axle/Gears: 3.42
better to over power than under power. and its 2500 watts @ full throttle on the amplifer, gain will be turned down as well as no bass enhancment. subs are oly mtx blue thunder right, dont drive car, but worst case scenario when or if they blow, they will be replaced with 3 10" alpine type R's
they subs are parrellel , each is 4 ohsm, so it will actually e a 1.3333 load, so even more power.
and also I will be upgrading my alternator, so no worries there
fellow owner said he had 12" of 8 gauge from dist. block to amplifier and I have less that that, said it was fine. just less power(as he's into spl) I dont need that full power output.
I'm just a little familiar with stereo stuff
they subs are parrellel , each is 4 ohsm, so it will actually e a 1.3333 load, so even more power.
and also I will be upgrading my alternator, so no worries there
fellow owner said he had 12" of 8 gauge from dist. block to amplifier and I have less that that, said it was fine. just less power(as he's into spl) I dont need that full power output.
I'm just a little familiar with stereo stuff
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Well I'm sure the previous owner had good intentions... but do you seriously think that an 8AWG wire has any place on an amp that you have wired to (theoretically) push 2500WRMS (I don't think it would make it that high though.)
No offense but have you ever looked at one of these charts?
Wire Guage versus Amperage Transmission
without looking at the chart, in my own head, I would have said never use 8AWG (and I know you're using TWO,) on any amp with more than 300 watts...
heck, if you go to the store, you'll see the different wiring kits that show the wattage their intended for... the 8AWG kit goes up to like 400 max or something..
hopefully you'll upgrade your wiring before you ever turn the gain on your amp above 10%.
I mean this amp is a wicked beast... I'd probably run double nought from the 300AMP alternator to the main battery, and double nought to the back of the car where I have a solenoid controlling a secondary battery... then I'd run quadruple nought to the distro then double 2AWG to that 2500D... I bet you can squeeze them in...
I'm only dealing with ~1400WRMS and I'm running/was running 1AWG wire to the distro, as well as the 1AWG to the amp.... I'm only looking at about 150amps total... so I don't need quite as much...
but just in case, when I wire up my new car, I'm going to put 0 or 00 just for future flexibility.
No offense but have you ever looked at one of these charts?
Wire Guage versus Amperage Transmission
without looking at the chart, in my own head, I would have said never use 8AWG (and I know you're using TWO,) on any amp with more than 300 watts...
heck, if you go to the store, you'll see the different wiring kits that show the wattage their intended for... the 8AWG kit goes up to like 400 max or something..
hopefully you'll upgrade your wiring before you ever turn the gain on your amp above 10%.
I mean this amp is a wicked beast... I'd probably run double nought from the 300AMP alternator to the main battery, and double nought to the back of the car where I have a solenoid controlling a secondary battery... then I'd run quadruple nought to the distro then double 2AWG to that 2500D... I bet you can squeeze them in...
I'm only dealing with ~1400WRMS and I'm running/was running 1AWG wire to the distro, as well as the 1AWG to the amp.... I'm only looking at about 150amps total... so I don't need quite as much...
but just in case, when I wire up my new car, I'm going to put 0 or 00 just for future flexibility.
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From: okotoks Alberta
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: T-56 LT1
Axle/Gears: 3.42
fellow owner had 12" of 8 gauge wire from dist. block to amplifier, I have half of that
he has however 0 gauge from battery to dist block, yellow top optima and said he had a 105 amp alternator at one time. upgraded to some crazy one as he is totally into spl has two 18" RE in there. hes actually a member of this board. i'm moving onto bigger and better things. this can be delt with later, as I dont even drive the freakin car(no motor, no trany, no susp. doesnt' have a deck, so I couldn even listen to it, and doesn't have a battery. even when done, I wouldnt not be worried about the amplifier as minimal to no gain will be used. but eventaully dont worry I will upgrade
battery is goign to be in trunk. run 0 gauge from battery to amplifier, then dual 4 gauge from dist. blocks into amplifier
he has however 0 gauge from battery to dist block, yellow top optima and said he had a 105 amp alternator at one time. upgraded to some crazy one as he is totally into spl has two 18" RE in there. hes actually a member of this board. i'm moving onto bigger and better things. this can be delt with later, as I dont even drive the freakin car(no motor, no trany, no susp. doesnt' have a deck, so I couldn even listen to it, and doesn't have a battery. even when done, I wouldnt not be worried about the amplifier as minimal to no gain will be used. but eventaully dont worry I will upgrade
battery is goign to be in trunk. run 0 gauge from battery to amplifier, then dual 4 gauge from dist. blocks into amplifier
Thread Starter
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From: okotoks Alberta
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: T-56 LT1
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by stitchop
I just spent an hour looking at your car on the car domain link, great job, your work looks very good.
I just spent an hour looking at your car on the car domain link, great job, your work looks very good.
wont be painting, did that to my malibu. had enough of that, lol , I will paint engine bow however
I dont believe there were any fuses actually in the amplifier from what I saw, I didn't actually go over the amplifier too thourgoly , I had to ask previous owner how to take inputs for cables off, also found cross over etc is hidden under the viper snake head emblelm
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally posted by ScrapMaker
weird... no serviceable fuses?
weird... no serviceable fuses?
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
no offense.. but Memphis is crap.. I had the 1500D for like a few days until I swapped with eD
Last edited by ScrapMaker; Jan 13, 2006 at 11:17 AM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally posted by ScrapMaker
no offense.. but Memphis is crap.. I had the 1500D for like a few days until I swapped with eD
no offense.. but Memphis is crap.. I had the 1500D for like a few days until I swapped with eD
Personally, I don't know enough about memphis to comment one way or another.My point was that a few reputable (like it or not memphis is considered reputable) companies sell/reccomend running amps without fuses.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,281
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
All I know is that the 1605D I had was not 'defective' by Memphis' standards... but no matter how I hooked it up in my car, I would hear a light 'rumble,' that did not increase with volume (meaning, it wasn't an input problem.) even did it with no source connected.
Sent it back, got a new one, (even checked the serial number.) Same exact problem.
Redid all my wiring again (even though I knew it was good to start with since I have had several other amplifiers.) No difference..
bought the nINE.1, and now my subs hit harder, no static, and it looks much better in my opionion... cleaner...
I just think the memphis has really changed over the last year or so, and maybe they cut costs somewhere, resulting in the amps picking up interference... (like from the fuel pump maybe, or anything...)
and about the fuse thing... I can't believe anyone would recommend that... because then the amp could easily burn up, right? it seems that you would just put in a bigger fuse instead...
edit: oh yeah, and scratch my earlier reference to the 1500D... I have no experience with that, and I have heard EXCELLENT things about it... I only had this year's 1605D
Sent it back, got a new one, (even checked the serial number.) Same exact problem.
Redid all my wiring again (even though I knew it was good to start with since I have had several other amplifiers.) No difference..
bought the nINE.1, and now my subs hit harder, no static, and it looks much better in my opionion... cleaner...
I just think the memphis has really changed over the last year or so, and maybe they cut costs somewhere, resulting in the amps picking up interference... (like from the fuel pump maybe, or anything...)
and about the fuse thing... I can't believe anyone would recommend that... because then the amp could easily burn up, right? it seems that you would just put in a bigger fuse instead...
edit: oh yeah, and scratch my earlier reference to the 1500D... I have no experience with that, and I have heard EXCELLENT things about it... I only had this year's 1605D
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