My friend had an Accord with a DEI 250, (2 ch.) DEI 400, (2 ch) both running the highs & mids, and a Hifonics Boltar (2 ch) powering three Crossfire 10" subs. In the Accord, the system was really loud. He was selling the system, and my cousin wanted to buy one, so I bought it, and held on to it. My cousin didn't want to use this stuff so now it's mine, and I'm just wondering how I want to set it up. My friend had an extra battery, no cap, and a stock alt.

I need to decide wether I want to use the second battery, or get a cap, or both. I don't know what I want to do with the highs & mids yet, but I do want to use those subs with the Boltar. That amp was tested at 1100 watts, so it should bump!!

Any thoughts?

 

Wow!!~ Thirty veiws, and no comments?

Huh,.....

 

I wouldn't bother with the second battery unless you want to run the system with the car off for long periods of time. Defiantly skip the cap - they're worthless.

Crossfire makes some pretty nice stuff. What line are the subs from and what coils are they wearing? You might as well find a way to use the two DEI amps as well since you have them. Maybe bi-amp a nice component set?

I'm not sure what kind of comments you're looking for

 

Only thing that looks a little like a question to me. But Gummie got that one first. Defiantly going to want to do the big three. You may consider a bigger alt. if you're going to run all three amps. But I'd put them in and see.

 

Actually, the alternator just went out, so I was thinking about getting a 150amp (for $145.00). Since Autozone's lifetime warranty alt. is $200, I think that with this system I could use the extra amperage.
The subs are W10Ds. They have a 500 watt max rating, and with the Boltar, I should be putting just above 350 to each sub. I have to figure out the mounting for the box and amps, and I do believe that capacitors help alot. I have seen many different times where they stopped headlights from dimming, and the really help with the punchy-ness of the bass. And as for the DEI amps, I was thinking of some 6.5 components in the sails, and maybe making some kick panels. I'd probably put 5.25s in the kicks cause I need all the leg room that I can get, being 6'4" tall. I'm not into that whole "Only filler sound comming from the rear" crap, so that's probably the way to go. But I don't know about the second battery though. I do sit in my car and watch movies at lunch.

Oh, and last I checked, forums aren't only for asking questions, they are for conversating amongst other enthusiasts. But just for you Needaz, the question was "Any thoughts?". Iwas just looking for suggestions.

 

the extra battery will probably just kill your alternator... no matter how expensive / high-output it is... as long as you play your stereo with the engine running, you'll be fine...

 

You are absolutely correct, ignore my attitude, I'm a 'D'.

All they do is cover up the problem, not fix. 9 times out of 10 the problem could have actually been fix for less money then people pay for caps. It's really cheap to do the BIG 3. CAPS ARE A WAST! G0d, how many time do we have to go over this before people get it.

I'm a BIG fan of the simple well thought out stuff. Kicks are the way to go. Take the time to aim them. If you're creative you can get 6.5 with out too much trouble. But if you NEED the room, 5.25 is cool. But I think you could get the 6.5 to fit. I like one or two subs in the back with moderate power. No rear fill.

I like second batteries on solenoid isolates if you listen a lot with the car off.

There, I gave my opinion about something other then someone screwing up. I need a shower now.

 

Needaz, if you just have an isolator, how do you prevent the alternator from being damaged? do you have a regulator of sorts to slow the current draw?

I know that with a yellowtop, a SINGLE charge-up from, say 10v, is enough to cook the stator, or blow the regulator/rectifier.... EVEN on, say, an Iraggi alternator... they specifically don't cover excessive draw

 

The assumption that the standing voltage gives an accurate indication of state of charge will get you into trouble. It can give you an idea, but that's it. Even if you battery was dead shorted, as little as 0.145 ohms (given 14.5V) in the circuit would limit current to 100A. Most dead batteries aren't that kind of load. You are right that it CAN damage the alt. but it is a VARY uncommon thing. Think about how many people jump start a car, hop in and run for 50 miles. It done every day, and the vast majority do it with no problem.
On my old truck I had the coil wire for the isolator to the second battery, switch ground to pull it in. This way if the battery was dead, or had standing voltage that was below the pull in voltage of the coil, it would not turn on. But at the same time the isolator was told to kick in, a small 40A relay kicked on a 5A constant current controller and would slow charge the battery until the battery reached the pull in voltage of the isolator. The problem was the FET in my magic little circuit shorted (my bad design, only worked once), bad times, so i ran it with out that, used the under hood batter to supply the isolator and run like that for the next two years, no problem. When I do the new truck I think I'm just going to use a light bulb to limit current.
But the odds of having a problem are small.