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Experienced People come on in - noise and fiberglass issues inside

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Old May 29, 2006 | 06:34 PM
  #1  
KCobain147's Avatar
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From: Cheektowaga., NY, USA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI LO3
Experienced People come on in - noise and fiberglass issues inside

2 issues.

First: Amp issues I had before. System setup: Power run down pass side of the car to the back. (120 amp breaker under the hood - 12 inch run from breaker to batt). From the power in the back, it breaks out via a fused monster cable distro box to each amp. Signal goes down the driver side. 3 rca's. 1 prefade for the subs, 2 for interior (left/right, front/rear). All ends at the amps. Eclipse 2 channel running to 2 dvc eclipse 12's, stereo out of the amp to each voice coil. 4 channel powering the interior speakers. 1 monstercable wire loom (+/- for each speaker, plus 1 remote turnon - 9 wires in one sheath total) runs back up the drives side, spliced to a wiring harness (terminal connecters, crimped), then plugged into the stock wiring harness. Grounds for both amps are running to the ground bolt for the rear defrosters on the pass side rear quarter. Rear speakers are eclipse 3 way 6x9's, front stock for now. I get minor alt hum when the car is running, constant hum. Can't hear either at high volume (i'm assuming it's getting drown out). Switch amps, adjust crossover (so 2 channel in 4 channel spot, same wires), it stops. Had the amp looked at - came back fine. SOOOOO... ideas anyone? Please note i'm looking for people that have done this for a while - not "did you check the rca's man?" (yes, i did, i swapped out front and rear on the 2 channel, no diff). Also, when i step on the brake, or use the turn signals, there's a small (nothing to make you jump, but it's there) click on all 4 speakers (can't tell w/the subs at all - not that it's not there - that i cant hear it).

Second: Fiberglass. I've been making a custom enclosure. First 2 attempts - didnt work. 55-60 degrees, no humidity, lots of hardener, used fleece.

Third attempt - 75 degrees, fiberglass matt instead of the fleece - worked perfect. Is it the fleece not absorbing (doesn't look nearly as pourous as the matting), or the wrong temp. Once again, this is an expensive learning experience, i'm not looking for guesses. (i burned about 100$ between the first 2 attempts - i have a system that works, but wondering if fleece will work - ive been told it does, but it didn't for me).

Thanks ya'll.
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Old May 29, 2006 | 06:54 PM
  #2  
Rex Orr's Avatar
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From: Maryville, Tennessee
Car: 1992 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
Anything below 70 degress and the chemical recation does not happen. Rex
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Old May 29, 2006 | 08:54 PM
  #3  
89RJcamaroRS's Avatar
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From: ma
Car: 1989 camaro RS
Engine: RAMJET 350
Transmission: RAPTOR 700-R4
not true it can happen just needs some help. in colder temps i runs dma in my resin when doin any fiberglass work its an accelerator. reacts with the catyalist (sp) causing alot more heat. but not for your average joe. i dont know what was your mixture but it should harden either way no matter the temp just takes a longer time
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Old May 29, 2006 | 10:10 PM
  #4  
KCobain147's Avatar
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From: Cheektowaga., NY, USA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI LO3
In the colder temps, after a day and a half, it wasn't setting up, and i dont think it sunk well into the fleece - just wondering what the exact issue was without wasting more cash , because sq ft wise the fleece was cheaper - however if it doesnt work right, why bother?
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Old May 29, 2006 | 10:42 PM
  #5  
Rex Orr's Avatar
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From: Maryville, Tennessee
Car: 1992 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
Originally Posted by 89RJcamaroRS
not true it can happen just needs some help. in colder temps i runs dma in my resin when doin any fiberglass work its an accelerator. reacts with the catyalist (sp) causing alot more heat. but not for your average joe. i dont know what was your mixture but it should harden either way no matter the temp just takes a longer time
Well I guess you know better than me. I pefer to do things within their proper limits. Seems to make a better part. Alot depends on the promotor in the resin ,gel time, lay up thickness, age of resin. I could go on.
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Old May 30, 2006 | 07:47 AM
  #6  
NEEDAZ's Avatar
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From: Westminster, MD
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
The noise could probably be a different post. What model HU? Do you have a DMM and know how to use it to measure resistance?
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Old May 30, 2006 | 08:11 AM
  #7  
Jim85IROC's Avatar
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
All winter long when I 'glass, I need to set up a portable heater in a tiny space (in my case, the hatch-door stairwell in the basement) to heat the items, and I have to keep rotating the items so that they harden fully. Like Rex said, you need a certain amount of ambient temperature in order for the chemical reaction to occur.
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Old May 30, 2006 | 08:41 PM
  #8  
89RJcamaroRS's Avatar
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From: ma
Car: 1989 camaro RS
Engine: RAMJET 350
Transmission: RAPTOR 700-R4
im not saying there arnet limits just saying if ya need to make it work it can be done. hes not making a finished piece. his piece will still need work. hes not casting from a mold. i understand your pieces rex not bashing on your experience. i was stating it can be forced to react if need be.

i dont make show pieces i use to build boats so those things do need to be done within there limits as do your products rex.
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Old May 30, 2006 | 09:18 PM
  #9  
Rex Orr's Avatar
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From: Maryville, Tennessee
Car: 1992 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
I understand yes it can be done. I have used a heat gun many times when I am in a hurry to trim a part.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 09:21 PM
  #10  
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From: Cheektowaga., NY, USA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI LO3
bump - anyone else?
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