how did you bolt your amp down?
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
how did you bolt your amp down?
well i sold my old sony amp and my new profile 2000 watt amp is coming in tomaro. i want to get it all wired and bolted down b4 i leave friday for the power tour. i dont want to bolt it down to the metal b/c the gas tank is right there. idk how i should go about bolting it down... ill attach the pic of where i had my sony mounted and where the new one will be mounted. thanks in advance for the help.

also what did you guys use to keep your side mirrors and license plate from rattling...? also that black piece that runs along the top of the door panel rattles in mine too anyway to fix that?

also what did you guys use to keep your side mirrors and license plate from rattling...? also that black piece that runs along the top of the door panel rattles in mine too anyway to fix that?
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From: Dalhart,Texas
Car: '88 Trans Am/'96 Trans Am
Engine: L98/LT1
Transmission: 700R-4/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42/4.10
I usually get industrial velco to keep my amps in place, it works pretty well. When the top pieces of my doors would rattle it's either because the edges started to bow upward (in which case you replace them) or they came seperated from the door panel itself ( which you can reattach with some epoxy or replace the door panels). There is a company that makes reproduction upper door plastics but they are pretty **** poor and I sent them back. If they need to be replaced there are usually some good sets offered on e-bay of the classifieds here. New door panels are easy to find a some companys do a good job at making them, you just have to see which ones you like
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
Originally Posted by mgomez
I usually get industrial velco to keep my amps in place, it works pretty well. When the top pieces of my doors would rattle it's either because the edges started to bow upward (in which case you replace them) or they came seperated from the door panel itself ( which you can reattach with some epoxy or replace the door panels). There is a company that makes reproduction upper door plastics but they are pretty **** poor and I sent them back. If they need to be replaced there are usually some good sets offered on e-bay of the classifieds here. New door panels are easy to find a some companys do a good job at making them, you just have to see which ones you like
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 259
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From: Groves, TX
Car: 2001 SS
Engine: bolt on LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Make sure you put a drop of super glue in each of the holes you made for you old amp becuase it you more than likey drilled through the tank when you mounted it.
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
Originally Posted by 87CIZ
cut a piece of mdf to fit in the area then bolt your amp to that. Then you can make a cover plate to hide your wires
Originally Posted by kingdaddy305
Make sure you put a drop of super glue in each of the holes you made for you old amp becuase it you more than likey drilled through the tank when you mounted it.
Originally Posted by gon8go
my amp is bolted to the back of my sub box so not to block t-tops.
thank you all for the comments and suggestions. but does anyone know what to do with these mirrors to get them to quite rattling so bad? and what did you do with the license plate.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Groves, TX
Car: 2001 SS
Engine: bolt on LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally Posted by maroon88iroc
idk if you read the post or not but i did not bolt the amp to the floor b/c i didnt want to hit the fuel tank nor did i want to bolt it too the floor which was my reason for this thread to ask how other people did it...
.
.
It sure looks like your sony amp is bolted to just above the gas tank.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I restored my car, so I had the rear axle out, so it was easy to remove my gas tank. So I did.
Then I placed my amps where I wanted them, drilled mounting holes. Then I used button head, pin in head allen drive (tamper proof) sheet metal screws, and screwed them down. Then from under the car, I used an angle grinder to cut off excess screw length, so I had ~1/8" long protruding through the floor. Then put everything back. It'd be a hassle, but it's an idea. Plus tamper proof screws are a nice idea to help prevent theft.
Then I placed my amps where I wanted them, drilled mounting holes. Then I used button head, pin in head allen drive (tamper proof) sheet metal screws, and screwed them down. Then from under the car, I used an angle grinder to cut off excess screw length, so I had ~1/8" long protruding through the floor. Then put everything back. It'd be a hassle, but it's an idea. Plus tamper proof screws are a nice idea to help prevent theft.
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
Originally Posted by Sonix
I restored my car, so I had the rear axle out, so it was easy to remove my gas tank. So I did.
Then I placed my amps where I wanted them, drilled mounting holes. Then I used button head, pin in head allen drive (tamper proof) sheet metal screws, and screwed them down. Then from under the car, I used an angle grinder to cut off excess screw length, so I had ~1/8" long protruding through the floor. Then put everything back. It'd be a hassle, but it's an idea. Plus tamper proof screws are a nice idea to help prevent theft.
Then I placed my amps where I wanted them, drilled mounting holes. Then I used button head, pin in head allen drive (tamper proof) sheet metal screws, and screwed them down. Then from under the car, I used an angle grinder to cut off excess screw length, so I had ~1/8" long protruding through the floor. Then put everything back. It'd be a hassle, but it's an idea. Plus tamper proof screws are a nice idea to help prevent theft.
Originally Posted by kingdaddy305
It sure looks like your sony amp is bolted to just above the gas tank.
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From: Westminster, MD
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Put some MDF UNDER the carpet, bolt amps to that.
It's not that it will 'fry the inside or the amp', but it can rattle some solder connections loose. Bad connection in the amp are, well, not good...
...they say the bass notes from the subs over time can fry the inside of the amp...
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 249
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From: Ann Arbor MI
Car: '88 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally Posted by NEEDAZ
Put some MDF UNDER the carpet, bolt amps to that.
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From: Korea/Wisconsin
Car: 91 Firebird, (miss my 87 Formula)
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Originally Posted by syc0path
And if u'r still worried about it, use some metal-safe silicone to glue the MDF to the floor. It will hold securely, but u'll still be able to pry it up and remove it w/o tearing off the paint.
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From: East Coast
Car: '90 Firebird
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: Auto
I have just attached my amp on the hump over my gas tank ('90 firebird). I had it bolted to the back of my rear seats for about 2 years (thus making them unusable)and i finally got fed up with it. I looked for ways to attach it to the back area. I ended up putting some plywood underneath the carpet and then screwed the amp into that. I also ran the wires under the carpet and cut a slit to stick them through right next to the amp, so there isnt a clutter. I had home depot cut some 3/4 in. thick plywood 3 feet long, and 1'4" wide. It seems to work great. It doesnt even look like there is anything under there and the wood doesnt seem to move around at all either (i didn't attach it to the metal in anyway). A car audio place said they'd arrange some sort of amp rack for about 150 bucks (3 hours of labor basically), so i did it myself, it took an afternoon and cost me 20 bucks for the wood because u have to buy the whole darn board. Ill attach a couple pictures of the process if i can figure out how, (first post). hope this helps someone.
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
Originally Posted by Homer_J
I have just attached my amp on the hump over my gas tank ('90 firebird). I had it bolted to the back of my rear seats for about 2 years (thus making them unusable)and i finally got fed up with it. I looked for ways to attach it to the back area. I ended up putting some plywood underneath the carpet and then screwed the amp into that. I also ran the wires under the carpet and cut a slit to stick them through right next to the amp, so there isnt a clutter. I had home depot cut some 3/4 in. thick plywood 3 feet long, and 1'4" wide. It seems to work great. It doesnt even look like there is anything under there and the wood doesnt seem to move around at all either (i didn't attach it to the metal in anyway). A car audio place said they'd arrange some sort of amp rack for about 150 bucks (3 hours of labor basically), so i did it myself, it took an afternoon and cost me 20 bucks for the wood because u have to buy the whole darn board. Ill attach a couple pictures of the process if i can figure out how, (first post). hope this helps someone.
ill try and post up some pictures this weekend. but i also had to rerun my remote wire b/c b4 all i had was speaker wire for the remote wire and i figured that was way to small so i ran some 16 ga. i also ran the phone coard for the bass ****. but i have yet to figure out a permanent place to mount the ****.
just for kicks and gigles 87CIZ how would i go about making a cover for the wires? i thought about it for a while and i couldnt figure out a GOOD way to do it and im curious now as to how to do it.
Last edited by maroon88iroc; Jun 16, 2006 at 10:35 PM.
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From: East Coast
Car: '90 Firebird
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glad to hear that your amp mounting went well, took me all afternoon but im very happy with how it looks...i also need to find a place for my bass **** too. when i bought the amp, the bracket for the **** was missing so i never was able to get one. That style has been discontinued and i think that you have to buy the whole cord, ****, and bracket; when i only need the 2 dollar bracket. maybe i can figure out a way to make one...if you find a good place for it, let me know. mine currently hangs by my right knee when driving lol.
About the wire covers, dont they sell different style sheaths to hide cords on walls in homes? i'm not positive tho, but it might be worth checking in to if you could get one that looks decent.
About the wire covers, dont they sell different style sheaths to hide cords on walls in homes? i'm not positive tho, but it might be worth checking in to if you could get one that looks decent.
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
Originally Posted by Homer_J
glad to hear that your amp mounting went well, took me all afternoon but im very happy with how it looks...i also need to find a place for my bass **** too. when i bought the amp, the bracket for the **** was missing so i never was able to get one. That style has been discontinued and i think that you have to buy the whole cord, ****, and bracket; when i only need the 2 dollar bracket. maybe i can figure out a way to make one...if you find a good place for it, let me know. mine currently hangs by my right knee when driving lol.
About the wire covers, dont they sell different style sheaths to hide cords on walls in homes? i'm not positive tho, but it might be worth checking in to if you could get one that looks decent.
About the wire covers, dont they sell different style sheaths to hide cords on walls in homes? i'm not positive tho, but it might be worth checking in to if you could get one that looks decent.
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