MECP must be more of an American thing.

I know what Dynasorb does but it still seems like overkill and I see lots of world class competitors winning without using Dynasorb in their builds.

 

Well im not going to start an argument, And to an extent I do agree that in a non-competition stereo it would be slightly overkill (more pricey than what the improvement you hear is worth) but i am going to stop at that, like I said, Im not going to start an argument on here.

 

check this link out, http://www.mecp.com/masters.asp
yes, we are in Canada as well

 

"MECP" is such a waste of time, it's hardly recognized as anything anymore....

I was MECP certified at one time, did nothing for me, or anyone else I knew that also had the certification. The concept is good, but the follow through just wasn't there.

An as a very experienced installer (over 16 years in the industry, longer if you include hobby previous to that), I can say without a doubt that I have NEVER seen a speaker damaged by an object sitting on the grill over a speaker. Sound quality may have suffered while that object was there, but never any damage.
For further proof, look at Aperiodic Enclosures that use a flat panel mounted very close to cone of the speaker.

 

MECP is a waste of time? really? ROFL My customers appreciate the fact that I took the time to get my Certs. and it makes them feel more confident with the install. If I am just going to be attacked when I post something on here, I am done trying to share my knowledge. Just goes to show that no good deed goes unpunished!

 

You must have skipped over the rest of my post that said I was once also MECP certified, and that in theory it is a great idea, in addition to the rest of what I said.

If your customers knew how easy it was to write a simple test to get "certified", they too would see how pointless it really is.

My customers appreciate the recommendations by their friends and colleagues, and the experience that I have, which is worth far more than a piece of paper hanging on the wall.

I'm also "certified" by the Ontario government, which means far more than M.E.C.P., yet, still no one cares, they just care that the job can be done, and done well. The only cert I care about the government cert, an only because without that, I'm not legally allowed to install remote starters an alarms for other people. In the 10 years that this cert has been around I have only been asked for it once by a ministry inspector.

Basically if you're going to throw around "certifications", at least make sure it means something, better yet, have fact and experience to back up what you say. I can tell that you're new to this game, because of your response about speaker damage, when an object is sitting on a grill above a speaker. My 2+ decades of audio experience shows otherwise. Any sound "reflected" back to the speaker from that object will not in any way damage a speaker. If it did, just using a speaker in an enclosed environment, such as a house, or a car would damage it, if you want to get real technical, that would mean that a speaker in an enclosure, single or double reflex, would cause the speaker to be damaged, due to the rear wave of the speaker being reflected back unto itself. Band pass would only make it worse, since this has another object, this time also in front of the cone that will "reflect" the sound back to the speaker itself. Again, like I said before sound quality will likely suffer, but I have never seen damage to a speaker from something being place in front of it, not directly touching the cone of the speaker.

 

yup, **** THIS SITE, no, i am not new at audio and video installs, (8 plus years now) and I HAVE seen subs damaged from stuff sitting on them (it has to do with the lack of air movement and not allowing the speaker to move freely)... you must ONLY do alarm and remote starters. Learn the audio world. BUT **** THIS SITE and its members like Six shooter. IM DONE!

 

Interesting, one Master in all of Canada, but none in Ontario or Quebec which is home to several IASCA world champions.

Good luck elsewhere.

 

Yep.

LOL @ the "lack of air movement damaging speakers", that's a good one.

I've probably forgot more about the audio side than you will ever know with that attitude....

Learn about acoustical physics before you try an come up with a theory.

I've built many different types of enclosures, some that you will probably never get a chance to build, unless you build them for yourself, like I do.

I'd like to hear the physics explanation on how "lack of air movement" can damage a speaker.

Before you try to explain that, go and read up on how "acoustic suspension" enclosures work, you probably know that enclosure better as "sealed". If "lack of air movement" would damage a speaker, every speaker installed in a sealed enclosure would be damaged. You may not want to walk in front of your home speakers while you're listening to music, the "reflection of sound from your leg may damage your speakers. With this thought process every speaker in a car should be damaged, since there are always objects (grills/door panels/seats/legs/arms/etc.) placed in front of speakers.

 

Which is why I asked if anyone had put hinges on their board/box to put things underneath. You may not be able to get much in there but having a few tools hiding down there for a rainy day may come in handy, without sacrificing sound quality and appearance.

 

It's very possible to build what you want.

Have a look at subs made by Stereo Integrity (or SI for short). Great performance in a very small box.

Or you could go with 3 8" subs which would take up about 1.2 cu. ft. total while still giving decent output. the JBL GTO8 comes to mind or Polk Audio MMs. This way you could still utilize the bottome of the hatch.

 

Lack of air movement

So underpowering a sub will cause "lack of air movement" and thus will damage the sub?

Sorry but you're just plain wrong.

 

so this blew up really quick.... so as ANOTHER MECP certified installer....it doesnt mean much anymore lol yeah ive got it but...whoo... it doesnt take much to pass the test, you can go on JL's website and study up on their FAQ page to pass lol and just touching on mr blowup's post, you CAN damage a sub by putting something on top of it....like a cinder block.... if you have a grille on there then as the project said the sound waves form around the object, and just one more.... the original post that sparked this asked for a compartment on the side so you can store things... which i thought about myself but mr MECP took it the wrong way....

Now wasnt this thread about sub boxes? not whos certified in what and the urban legends of the car audio world?

oh and 91camrs707 incase youre still hovering the boards you should look up JL's school of sound, new training put out by them to debunk your urban myths maybe theyll give you a bit of extra info you can use in the real world

im done. Now back to topic!

 

lol @ this. Children these days...

Anyway, Bill! I want a box that sits about the same height as the lower portion to the trunk area, yah know? I've seen a few pics in here that display that but don't know if I could buy something similar. More then likely I'd have to make it. Having 2 subs isn't important, I can rock 1 sub and be totally fine with it. Any thoughts? I don't want the tall "run of the mill", "typical" 3rdgen sub box.

EDIT: Saw this picture posted in another thread and loved it.

 

You will have to choose a sub that has small enclosure size requirements. Usually it is found that the taller sub boxes are barely big enough, air space wise, for many subs out there. Not saying that can't be done effectively, just that careful selection of components will be needed.

 

I had just that done for the system in my 92. I've posted these several times before, but anyway, here's how it looks with and without the cover.




Maybe a bit taller than what The Project has implied, but with the cover flush with the cargo compartment floor, I can still put things on top without damaging the amp or woofer.

 

Nice setup Al Hasse, dimensions for that? PM me.

 

Thank you, but I couldn't tell you the dimensions as I had the box built. It is made from MDF and fiberglass loosely using the dimensions from the sticky atop the forum. The air space in it is ~1.5cf as required by the sub and the box leaves some dead space on the passenger side of the well (doesn't use all the space in the bottom). I have a thread that somewhat details the build

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...amp-build.html

 

Glad to see you're back in a 3rd gen.

Sent you a PM.

 

did the sub thing too many times. wanted something a little different. it is open underneath. its enough bass for me. and i have 5 1/4 two way in the dash. no sail panel speakers. this looks clean and sounds a lot better than you would think.