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I've used it, and i'm one of the few people on this board who will tout it's success.
I'm not sure that reflectix is the same stuff, is it about 1/8" thick and has an incredibly sticky side? I think it's just a foam insulation or something, I couldn't tell.


I used peel-n-seal on my roof, every visible floor area, rear hump walls, etc. I haven't done the doors yet. I still have 1.5 rolls left.

Granted our summers up here are nothing compared to yours, but I have left it outside (black car!) during a few of our hottest days (32°C, 90°F) with absolutely no ill effects - no sagging, no smell etc.

I just scrubbed the dust out of the car, then put it on. I used a heat gun to help it conform to the metal. Also make sure the metal is warm, if it's cold it won't work so well. I also used a rolling pin to help roll it down. It smelled because I used a heat gun to install it, the smell was gone in 3 days or so.

Lowes is the only place i've seen this stuff, and it's only in USA. It was a hassle for me to get the stuff up here.

It was $12/roll IIRC, so if you want to prove it to yourself (inevitably many others will post in this thread saying it's garbage because it's chemical content is xyz instead of abc, etc etc) but for $12 you can prove it to yourself. Fold down your rear seats, and lift the carpet up. No fasteners to remove, 3 minute job. Get some soapy water and clean the area, scotch brite if you think it needs it. Maybe a last minute spritz with alcohol or brake kleen. Use a heat gun/hair dryer to warm the surface up (if it's december cold outside eh?) and lay out a few foot long pieces. Roll them on good with a can of soup or something.
Leave the car like that overnight.

Next day, put the carpet back and fold the seats down. You won't have done enough to get any results, but leave it be for a week or so. After that, see if anyone else can smell anything "funny" in your car. Then try to remove the peel-n-seal Use any tools you want, just try to remove it. If it's anything like my install, you physically won't be able to remove it. It would take hours to SCRAPE it off, 1" at a time. That should prove to you how well it'd stick.

 

I've used it also, and found it to be a pretty good substitute to the name brand sound deadners.

It is an asphalt based material, so the chance of smells in the car are greater. I haven't noticed any in mine yet, but I do live in Washington so I don't see the heat that you do.

I would suggest doing what the poster above me stated, and try it out in a easy to access spot, and see how it performs.

I've done most of my car with it about a year ago and haven't seen any problems with it, and with it being available at Lowes really makes it something to look at.

 

I wasnt to sure about the reflectix either thats why I asked, I will stick to the peel and seal to be safe and I think I will take your advice and start with one roll and see how it does. As far as stopping rattles and road noise how was it?

 

Didn't seem to do anything for rattles per se. I never noticed rattles before, or after so...

If a plastic panel is rattling against a piece of metal, replace the screw that's missing But if *something* (whatever it is) it rattling against sheet metal, and you now have peel-n-sealed that metal, the rattle will be gone. Oh, it also helps for sound insulation, as far as road noise goes.

 

Ok cool, Im thinking I will do the hatch well and that area up to the passenger walls to start with. Im mainly looking to quiet some of the road noise and maybe deaden some of the noise from my system from outside of the car. That will also give me a chance to strip and re install panels making sure all screws are there.

Are there any areas I shouldnt use it? Im not gonna do the roof....On the passenger floorboard if I decide to do it there, will the exhaust running right under that make it nasty?

Is it ok to do the doors too? If so should I just make a solid shield of it under the door panel minus the panel clip holes?

 

I didn't have any problems with the exhaust running right below the floorboards there.
For other places, like for example the license plate, put 1/8" thick foam behind any metal to metal places - that'll keep down the rattles. Basically look for a 25' roll of 1" thick single sided adhesive foam.

Yep, doors are fine to do. I'd just do the door panel (ie not the door skin). Just cut some pieces to cover the bulk of it, and cut off the excess. Then just push a phillips screwdriver through where the holes were to re-open them.

 

So like just the part the door panel covers and not the inside of the door?

 

Not the cardboard cover, no I wouldn't put anything on that.

When I did mine, I did the outer skin of the door, and also the part just behind the door panel (not really sure what that would be called)

Basically I did all the metal pieces of the door.

I did it all because I plan on fiberglassing in some door pods for some mids latter on.

 

That's correct, put it on metal only. Or maybe plastic interior panels if you wanted to, I haven't tried that (thinking wheel well covers, might help insulate sound). But yea, no cardboard.

 

there are many types of SD material. As far as the peel and seal yes IMO it is just as good as the name brand.

However I like to use HushMat 1/2" foam cover on top of that! As well as on the roof panel.

IMO the spary on stuff is crap unless you coat it Supper thick.

As far as most inportant spots to SD. I would say roof,wheel wells,firewall,then doors and quarters.

 

I haven't used it, but I've heard from many that it melts at high temps and makes a MESS

 

I would like to know if it keeps noise down just as much as the fatmat or dynomat.

 

If you use it in the same thickness (not sure how thick "fatmat" is), then it'll do the same job.

Yea, it's one of those things that a lot of people have "heard" of that happening, but very few have actually seen it happen eh?

 

sweet! going to Lowes and getting a roll today!

 

FYI, I bought 6 rolls, and have 1.5 left over, not doing the doors (yet).
Did the roof, all floors (ALL), and the rear well completely.

 

how much of a noise reduction did u get sonix? big noticeable change? I'm just looking to probably do the back section where the fuel pump would be if I did this at all. Maybe the back seat area too after the tubs.

 

I can't really say. I didn't really get a chance to drive the car when I bought it, before I tore it down to the frame, and did the peel-n-seal during the buildup.

 

well that's no help then.

I can't decide between this stuff or the super expensive stuff if it'll only make a minor dB difference if it's not going to be $600 better then I'll do a minor amount of the cheap stuff.

 

I have some of the hatch area done and I can say it is much quieter. I hear less "splash" noises form the water and when i get it all done hopefully tomorrow then I'll give a report.
I have to wait for a hair dryer to heat everything up. It sticks great on flat surfaces but on less than flat surfaces i'll need to heat them up good to get the asphalt to stick. The price is right so far and it's not messy at all.

I was also wondering if it's the same stuff you put in the valleys of the roof (water barrier) I saw it but could not tell for sure. It comes in a huge roll, prob. hard to handle. I know they are super sticky but very hard to work with even on the roof.

 

My money is spent on "go fast" parts, so I find it hard to convince myself to pay $600 for car audio/sound deadener stuff. I figured you're the same way xpndbl3, if it doesn't make the car go faster, why blow that kind of coin eh?!?

Make sure you wipe all the dust off first ryan. I like brakekleen as a final cleaner. Then yea, just make sure the surface is warm (warm sunny day, or since it's winter, light heat from small heater). A heat gun has a lot more OOMPH than a hair dryer, and is about $25. Or you can just use one of those ceramic house heaters, just leave it under the car kicking heat upwards on the metal panel.

 

no i'll spend the extra 600 if it'll make it quieter, car was WAY too loud inside this year, actually had to turn the cd player all the way up just to hear it. Next year that will change. the HUM from the fuel pump got annoying after 15 minutes as well. So I'll do whatever it takes now, if the real stuff isn't a ton better I won't worry though. Only doing flat surfaces anyways.

 

well i'm at school and bored so maybe i'll go get a heat gun, if not then it will be the hair dryer. lol. And i totally agree! 600 bucks is too much. I would rather spend that on drivetrain, paint or exhaust.
for 600 bucks it better be silent and go to work for me to make the cash back! I'm not looking to make it into a Lexus. I just don't want to hear every puddle i hit.

 

subscribing. i really want to quiet my car on the inside. my exhaust dumps under the car so its LOUD inside. i really dont want to spend 600. i hope the peel n seel works good on exhaust and road noise

 

well i bought a couple rolls and started to layer it on. The heat is really a must. I found for me doing small sections at a time help. I also did two layers near the spare tire area. It is taking quite a lot of time so far. With the spare tire side done i drove around the block with out putting back the panels. I was actually somewhat impressed. The noise level went down and it sounded just as quite as the other side and with out the plastic panel and the jute backing.

I will know for sure by the weekend if I really like it. Right now i have no garage and I'm finding it hard to remove the drivers side rear hatch panels. Is there a trick to that?

All together I have used two rolls just for the spare tire area half way up the wheel well and the entire area near the hatch pull down. I'm trying to fit a piece in every square inch i can to make the biggest change. I also used a small piece in between each of the legs where the hatch pull down bolted to the car. I no longer hear the motor from the drivers seat, which is nice. Honestly it took me longer to reline the hatch pull down then to put the peel and seal on. Did not see that Pandora's box coming.

I'll take pictures this weekend and try to finish it up.

 

i've put a roll of peal and seal in the hatch well, passenger side. covered the spare tire plastic panel as well. made a small noticeable difference.

haven't gotten around to doing the rest yet, trying to do eight things at once, lol.

peal and seal is def worth the time/money. would do it again. just need more free time!

 

well i got to the storage area and that took lots of peel and seal. Seems that it would not quiet down when i tapped it unless i used three layers. Also i need new jute backing b/c mine ripped when i pulled up the carpet in the storage area. I still hear the rain but the suspension is Cadillac quiet now. When i hit bumps the rear end is real quite in comparison. Thinking i will need a lot more peel and seal. three rolls used up already. I hope to hear a bigger difference when i finally get the drivers side wheel well started.

Also my exhaust is quieter. I now hear it from my window and not from the hatch area.

 

same thing i noticed, and i only have about half the trunk well covered.

 

do you guys think it would be worth it to put this stuff in my vert? would it help out at all being a convertible?

 

Now Im more anxious to get started on this! Keep posting results and pictures too, I plan on starting someone after the first of the year.

 

Ay idea how much weight you are adding with 3 layers?
I may use this instead of dynamat
Thanks,
Kory

 

well each roll i would say is maybe 15lbs. 10 rolls, 150ish lbs.about the same as dynomat. Andyou needto put down 3 layers everywhere to se a difference.

 

post more pictures of this if you have any everyone.

 

I don't consider mine overly loud to begin with... If anything, my Magnaflow exhaust isn;t loud enough!