Alright so I basically got everything in place for my system and it will be finished tonight. But I have a question for you audio junkies out there, how will all this sound?

These are in the kick panels:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19755

These are in the sail panels:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...00SPR69C&tp=91

This is what is powering them:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=16883

Then for the subs I got:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...7C12VR4&tp=111

And... the subs are powered by this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...6ZX7501&tp=115

So guys im basically wondering how hard this system is gonna pound, and sound. thanks a ton

 

Most of the pound will come from your subs. And your subs will only be as good (or bad) as the type of enclosure they are mounted in. What kind of ideas do you have for a sub box (well size vs sub requirements vs vented of sealed, etc)?

 

You're running DVC subs with a mono (2 ohm stable)amp

Might want to change the subs to single voice coil or go with a two channel amp.

Sub box will make or break the subs. Need to be aware of type of enclosure and amount of space you have and the subs need.

Personally I'd go with two 10" subs vs 12" but its your choice. In the right box the 10" will hit very hard.

Are you doing the install yourself? If you are I'd recommend the Big 3 as well.

http://www.icixsound.com/iv/view_vid...e=&category=mr

 

i used the plans on the site, ill try and upload the pdf

 

i cant figure out how to put the pdf on here but anyways, project crutchfield gave me a diagram that allows me to do this...

 

It all looks good to me
Do the big 3 like The Project said and you should have no problems.

 

It looks like you have good components there but there is an issue with the subs if you want to run your amp at 2 ohms. That diagram is for single voice coil subs and those comp's are dual voice coils at 4 ohms per coil. You could wire it this way

or go with the same sub with dual 2 ohm coils and wire it the same way to get this

 

alright so i can wire mine this way and be fine right? im getting worried b/c it seems like i bought the wrong ones. but these WILL work? i got another question, whats the big 3? the video wont load for me

 

Yes you can wire them that way and work just fine. There won't be as much power transferred though. But if you already have them then I wouldn't worry about it.

I believe the "Big 3" are your cables from the alternator to battery (+), battery (-) to chassis ground, and engine to chassis ground. You want to use thicker cable to replace these. I haven't done this and have no problems, but I only have a Kenwood 450W amplifier and single 12" sub.

 

how much do u think all that will run me? and where do i buy it?

 

You can either make them yourself out of 0 gauge or 4 gauge wire. I used 4 and its fine. Just buy some wire, terminals, shrink tube and measuring tape.
Or you can probably go to your local car store and they might have them pre-made for you.
I'm from Canada and I bought all my wiring pre-made from Canadian Tire cost me 20 bucks more but saved me a hour or so of my time and I know these aren't gonna crap out on me anytime soon. (They look quality lol)

Also upgrade your Alt and Battery. You will probably need this once your subs hit hard and your lights still might flicker. I have almost the same system power wise maybe a little more power and I got all these and I am good now

Trust me Big 3 IS HUGE you will notice a big difference.

 

i actually just replaced my alternator not even 2 weeks ago. I went w/ a bosch but now i cant remember how many amps

 

It will sound fine, personally I would get rid of the 6X9's in the sail panels and get an active crossover for the fronts, then run the 4 channel as an active setup. Those subs with that much power will be very VERY loud in a sealed well enclosure. The components are good, really the only big mismatch is the Alpine 6X9. If you do keep them I would run a LOW pass crossover on them to neutralize the highs and use them as midbass drivers. You should enjoy this system quite a bit, it's some high quality stuff.

 

not quite sure what u mean by active crossover, the fronts have a crossover network so... and i personally really like the 6x9's they sound great. but thank you very much for your compliments about my system to be, make me feel good like i made the right choice on all this stuff

 

An active crossover takes out the passive network and you use 1 channel to run each driver of the front stage (2 for mids 2 for tweeters). You would need a crossover at that point that has a multiplier, this will give you a high enough high pass for the tweeters. A full active setup gives you alot more control over the front stage. On the rear stage in a Camaro, you just can't get good imaging out of those due to the way the seats sit and the direction the speakers point. It's really a matter of personal preference, either you want an SQ system with a powerful accurate front stage or if you're after a setup to keep up with the subs. In this case the 6X9's will help with that but you'll suffer in the accuracy department.

 

Here is the BIG 3 write up. Also don't waste your time on a cap.


Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread
________________________________________
It’s been discussed and searched for many times. Congratulations, you’ve come to the right place. All your answers on it get answered now. If you still have a question after the tutorial, please feel to ask it! Someone will jump in to help out.

We’ll start out by explaining exactly why you’re doing this upgrade. As you should know, the bigger the power wire in your sound, video or lighting system, the better it will perform and you should experience less dimming and/or voltage drops. The Big 3 is..

1) Alternator Positive to Battery Positive (optional fuse)


2) Battery Negative to Chassis


3) Chassis to Engine Block


Replacing/adding larger wire to these three critical spots can reduce or rid your electrical system of dimming and voltage drops. Overall, giving your charging system a larger surface area to travel over, will stabilize power and relieve strain on the alternator and battery.

If you have little cash to spend on a High Output (HO) alternator at the moment.. and the thought of even buying a new/better battery is daunting to you, this is a cheap and quick solution for your voltage issues.

Each wire serves its own special purpose, so you need to upgrade/replace all three for maximum potential of this mod. The Alternator Positive to Battery Positive wire is pretty small on a stock electrical system, so quite obviously upgrading that particular wire will increase power flow from the alternator to the battery. In DC power systems, power flows negative to positive. So upgrading the main grounds is just as important as the main power wire is. And lastly, since the alternator is grounded to the engine block, you need a way to transfer that energy back into the system.

Items You Need


You’ll need a varying assortment of tools and supplies to successfully complete this job. Depending on how large your engine compartment is you’ll need between 5-10ft of wire. I recommend you use the absolute largest you can afford. 1/0awg is a very popular choice for completing this upgrade, although others have been known to use 4awg. Remember that anything over stock is still better, but while you’re under there... you might as well go big[gest].

You’ll also need several crimps sized for whatever wire you use. A normal amount would be 6. If you upgrade your stock battery terminal to something with set screws, you’ll need one less crimp.


To get the crimps on the wire you can use several different methods. I prefer to use either a giant crimping tool

or a table vice

Either one will work fine, and there are various other methods available as well. As long as the connection is secure and not moving about. Don’t fret it. Also make sure that the whole thing is taped or covered with a rubber sleeve.

To cut large wire, most wire cutters should be up to the task. If you don’t have a set, you can use a common hacksaw, a set of tin snips or a set of bolt cutters

Again, however you cut it… just make sure that the wire has a clean edge.
If you decide to fuse the Alternator Positive to Battery Positive wire, you’ll need a fuse and fuse holder. Try to fuse for the maximum amperage of your wire.

Lastly, you’ll need an adjustable wrench, a good socket set or a few open-end wrenches to loosen any bolts or nuts that come your way.



Beginning the Project

1) Start out by disconnecting your Battery Negative. This will interrupt power through the whole system allowing you to safely work on the vehicle without danger to you or the cars more fragile electronic devices.

2) Sand down the potential grounding point for the new Chassis to Battery Negative point. This should be shiny metal when you’re done. You want as clean of a connection as possible. If you use the existing ground point you may not have to drill a new hole for a screw. Sand around it to ensure a good connection, you may also want to smear some anti-oxidation grease on the uncoated metal to prevent rust. This connection must be tight and secure when you’re done.


4) Screw the new ground wire in place but DO NOT reconnect it to the Battery Negative yet. Lay it down on a piece of cloth or paper and wait to connect it till after you finish the other elements of the project.


5) It’s time to add onto the existing Alternator Positive wire. This can be a bit tricky due to a small plastic collar around the positive lead coming off of the alt. It really only allows you to use one ring terminal terminated wire on the alt. That is perfectly fine though. Break off a little of the plastic if the extra wire refuses to fit. There should be a rubber gasket over the existing wire that will protect it.


Again, make sure that the wire is hooked snug on the terminal and not exposed to the elements.

6) Take the other end of the Alternator Positive wire and if you so choose, run it through the fuse holder. If you’ve decided to not get a fuse holder, then run it straight to the battery positive.


7) Attach the wire along the way to something that won’t get too hot and that won’t vibrate too terribly. Go ahead and connect the wire to the positive battery terminal.


8) The last step is the Chassis to Engine Block wire. Remember to sand both points well, just like the when you did the Battery Negative to Chassis. All you need to do for this step is to find a non-essential bolt on the engine block to attach the wire to. Non-essentials are those that don’t hold a liquid in. For example… using the Oil Drain plug as an attachment point probably isn’t the smartest place.

9) Take the other end leading off of the engine block and sand a smooth place on the chassis. If you want to do more than one lead off of the block that would be fine as well. The more the merrier.


10) You’re just about done. Re-check all of the new and old connections you just fiddled with to ensure stability, safe connection and good contact. After you’ve made sure everything is safe, you may re-attach the Battery Negative wire to the negative terminal on the battery.



Congratulations! You’ve just completed the cheapest and easiest upgrade to your electrical system that there is.

 

thanks a ton for the write up project, i think this is my weekend project. by the way you guys ill get u pics of my new setup soon, its gonna be sick as hell

 

sounds good i have all those components and im sure youll enjoy the way your bass hits. good luck

 

yeah man, you have some great speakers. i personally would have upped to the kicker ks series 6x9's, but if you thought the alpine's were more pleasing to your ear, that's what's important.

the amp will power those subs fine, i dont remember, but im not sure the comp vr's come in a dual 2ohm. but even at 4 ohms, those will hammer. what he said about the box is absoloutley right. can make or break your bass. yout got a speaker that only requires 1.25cf, so thats a plus. (thats of course for a sealed box)

my main suggestion is sound deadening. i know not only on older cars but even newer, that it makes a HELL of a difference. and you dont need the overpriced dyamat necessarily. they do make a GREAT new under carpet kit, but it has the dynamat price. a friend of mine went to lowe's or home depot, and bought enough of that roofing material (same as dynamat pretty much, not exactly...but works) to fill is whole trunk in a scion tc with two layers for like $45.

im personally putting two layers of it down on the whole floor of my car, the outside door skin, and the inside. if you have the qform kickpanels, i would put a couple layers behind those, and behind the speakers in the sail panels. this will make a tighter mid/bass response.

my $.02