what sub for my T/A?
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From: So Cal
Car: 1987 Trans am (SOLD), 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock
what sub for my T/A?
I wanna get a sub (maybe a pair) for my trans am
Whats a good sub for our cars considering the available space?
I want clean deep bass,I dont want my windows to rattle nor Im planning to have bass competitions with my friends.I want my bass to be deep,but not super loud.I hate when the bass is so loud that u cant hear the music, but I love deep clean bass, like say at the movie theater.
I dunno if i made myself clear lol.
So with that in mind
whats a good sub?
Ive been askin around and the brands people recommend are:
Alpine,Pioneer (of course)Cerwin Vega,Kicker,JL Audio,Orion,JBL,Infinity,Eclipse among others
I never had subs in any car before so any help or input would be appreciated.
Whats a good sub for our cars considering the available space?
I want clean deep bass,I dont want my windows to rattle nor Im planning to have bass competitions with my friends.I want my bass to be deep,but not super loud.I hate when the bass is so loud that u cant hear the music, but I love deep clean bass, like say at the movie theater.
I dunno if i made myself clear lol.
So with that in mind
whats a good sub?
Ive been askin around and the brands people recommend are:
Alpine,Pioneer (of course)Cerwin Vega,Kicker,JL Audio,Orion,JBL,Infinity,Eclipse among others
I never had subs in any car before so any help or input would be appreciated.
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 69
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From: Orwigsburg, PA
Car: 94TA 87IrocZ
Engine: 350 305
Transmission: 4L60e 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 3.23
Re: what sub for my T/A?
I have a 10" Kicker L7 solo baric in my 4th gen TA. I've been really digging the square subs the last few years. I listen to metal/hardcore and not much of anything else so I don't need earth shaking bass. Since it's a hatchback car, a pair may be overkill depending on the power you put through them.
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From: Independence Mo
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305 TBI (lo3)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Whatever is stock.
Re: what sub for my T/A?
What no polk? I have polk momo's in every speaker hole. Tens in the back. they are very good. But if you want a sub to take lots of power and last forever get jl w3's. with jl if you get them get the d4's and wire them up for 2 ohms. make sure your amp can run @ 2 ohms. get a good amp. Class d amp. get a cap for the amp. use 4 gauge wire for power and ground on the amp. thick speaker wire. get a head unit that has at least 4 volt preouts. trust me i know what im talking about. ask away. Almost forgot if you want to cheep out then get two 10's in a bandpass box. you can run a cheep amp, & subs. the bass will still be deep. Bandpass is the best for cheeping out.
Last edited by STRIKER911; Mar 21, 2009 at 02:13 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 370
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From: So Cal
Car: 1987 Trans am (SOLD), 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: what sub for my T/A?
Nah I dont want anything cheap.Not too expensive either but something that will last.
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From: Independence Mo
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305 TBI (lo3)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Whatever is stock.
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 467
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From: Batavia Area, NY
Car: 91 Firebird, 06 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT
Engine: 3.1L, 4.7L
Transmission: 700r4, 45RFE
Axle/Gears: 3.23 open, 3.55?
Re: what sub for my T/A?
jl is great but its VERY expensive. Its hard to recommend a "perfect" sub for you as so many people have a different taste in the exact same sub. It looks like your looking at good brand names which is a very good start. Except for eclipse....im sry for the lovers out there but eclipse is not quality. Its cheap and to "walmart'ish" for most people. As for having bass that overwhelms everything that can be controled with the loudest system. You can always turn down the equalizer. We wont get into the whole setting it up right problem right now. This is where so many people go from a great stereo to a crappy one even with the best equipment. I only have two 12in DVC crossfire DB3's and i hit over 130db. Its really all about set up and power control. I do hang out at the local car audio shop on my spare time. One of the subs they always push for all around good bass is the rocksford fosgate p3 sub. I would go with two 12in p3's with a box and a decent amp. These subs have great sq...can handle a decent amount of power...be played with everday use(durable)...and sound good with all music types. If i had to point u in a direction i would choose these. They are competivly priced and are really a great all around sub but can also be pushed pretty hard and produce some really loud bass if you want them to. Thats my 2 cents.
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From: Independence Mo
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305 TBI (lo3)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Whatever is stock.
Re: what sub for my T/A?
jl is great but its VERY expensive. Its hard to recommend a "perfect" sub for you as so many people have a different taste in the exact same sub. It looks like your looking at good brand names which is a very good start. Except for eclipse....im sry for the lovers out there but eclipse is not quality. Its cheap and to "walmart'ish" for most people. As for having bass that overwhelms everything that can be controled with the loudest system. You can always turn down the equalizer. We wont get into the whole setting it up right problem right now. This is where so many people go from a great stereo to a crappy one even with the best equipment. I only have two 12in DVC crossfire DB3's and i hit over 130db. Its really all about set up and power control. I do hang out at the local car audio shop on my spare time. One of the subs they always push for all around good bass is the rocksford fosgate p3 sub. I would go with two 12in p3's with a box and a decent amp. These subs have great sq...can handle a decent amount of power...be played with everday use(durable)...and sound good with all music types. If i had to point u in a direction i would choose these. They are competivly priced and are really a great all around sub but can also be pushed pretty hard and produce some really loud bass if you want them to. Thats my 2 cents.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: So Cal
Car: 1987 Trans am (SOLD), 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: what sub for my T/A?
How about Orion? My friend is selling me a 10" Orion for $120,(his car got in an accident, so hes selling his sound system)I've heard and read good stuff about those,has anybody in here tried those? Are they as good as ppl say?
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From: hobbs new mexico
Car: 1992 trans am tpi 350
Engine: tpi 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: what sub for my T/A?
memphis makes a good lower end sub its called a street edge or the power reference subs are pretty good also made by memphis. ive got a set of mojos from memphis in my t/a and they are worth the money i paid 800 a piece for em, but thats cause i do some side work for a place that sell them here
Re: what sub for my T/A?
That's a really hard question to answer, because it's like asking what flavor of ice cream will I like?
Everybody has different tastes and preferences so I might like vanilla and your might actually like strawberry. I would never suggest a speaker over the internet to a total stranger.
We've already narrowed down what kind of sound your looking for, so I would definitely stick with one 10" sub, or even a single 8" sub.
Start listening to your friends subwoofer systems, go to the audio store and listen to the subs in the demo rooms, even ask to listen to one in an employees car. Put your hands (and ears) on the the speaker your interested in.
Try to buy the best sub (spec wise) you can afford, if all you can afford is the base line then stick with that.....but if you can afford to spend a little more for the mid-range or even top of the line then by all means go for it. I tell people the same thing when shopping for computers.
Once you find a speaker you like, look at the online reviews of it, check and make sure there are no excessive defects or warranty claims on it. Even check the warranty and how easy the manufacture is to work with to make a claim.
Then decide on an enclosure for it, whether you build or shop around make sure you find one that is compatible with your sub. I would stay away from bandpass systems (do they even still make them?) because you'll have clipping inside the enclosure that you can't hear and will blow the sub.
I personally like a sealed box because you can't go wrong with that, while others like ported systems......again listen to both and you decide. It will be harder to find a ported box that matches your sub (unless you build it). Your chances of finding a sealed enclosure to match the sub is more common, they are all over the internet.
You can have the "best" subwoofer in the world, if it's not properly loaded you've wasted your money.
Good luck with your search
Everybody has different tastes and preferences so I might like vanilla and your might actually like strawberry. I would never suggest a speaker over the internet to a total stranger.
We've already narrowed down what kind of sound your looking for, so I would definitely stick with one 10" sub, or even a single 8" sub.
Start listening to your friends subwoofer systems, go to the audio store and listen to the subs in the demo rooms, even ask to listen to one in an employees car. Put your hands (and ears) on the the speaker your interested in.
Try to buy the best sub (spec wise) you can afford, if all you can afford is the base line then stick with that.....but if you can afford to spend a little more for the mid-range or even top of the line then by all means go for it. I tell people the same thing when shopping for computers.
Once you find a speaker you like, look at the online reviews of it, check and make sure there are no excessive defects or warranty claims on it. Even check the warranty and how easy the manufacture is to work with to make a claim.
Then decide on an enclosure for it, whether you build or shop around make sure you find one that is compatible with your sub. I would stay away from bandpass systems (do they even still make them?) because you'll have clipping inside the enclosure that you can't hear and will blow the sub.
I personally like a sealed box because you can't go wrong with that, while others like ported systems......again listen to both and you decide. It will be harder to find a ported box that matches your sub (unless you build it). Your chances of finding a sealed enclosure to match the sub is more common, they are all over the internet.
You can have the "best" subwoofer in the world, if it's not properly loaded you've wasted your money.
Good luck with your search
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 467
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From: Batavia Area, NY
Car: 91 Firebird, 06 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT
Engine: 3.1L, 4.7L
Transmission: 700r4, 45RFE
Axle/Gears: 3.23 open, 3.55?
Re: what sub for my T/A?
memphis makes a good lower end sub its called a street edge or the power reference subs are pretty good also made by memphis. ive got a set of mojos from memphis in my t/a and they are worth the money i paid 800 a piece for em, but thats cause i do some side work for a place that sell them here
Back to topic....like said before EVERY brand has lower end subs and all have the higher end subs. Also like said above by others and myself it is hard to tell you what sub you will like the best. JL is very good quality and very nice sound. The JL W3 is a great sub for the average or spirited person. The Rockford Fosgate P3 is a great sub for the above mentioned person. The Memphis P1 is also a great sub for your application. Another good sub for you would be the Crossfire BMF. I would start there and compare prices. The list really goes on when it comes to good subs. JL does have the best quality subs out there. But like said before brands like Memphis and also Crossfire make subs which are made just as well and can compete with JL for a fraction of the price. Memphis mojos are known for blowing windows out of cars. Memphis has won MANY competitions for their class. Some people go for JL cause of the name brand. Dont get me wrong JL is amazing. Ive had JL and loved it. Sold it with my car and the guy gave me an extra grand just for leaving the system all in there(he didnt know anything about audio...haha). Ppl argue all the time on what brand is the best. Hopefully this post doesnt get into another fight about the best brand. If you want that do a search. Like i said above check out the above subs and pick one. You will be more then happy.
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From: Independence Mo
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305 TBI (lo3)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Whatever is stock.
Re: what sub for my T/A?
[
Then decide on an enclosure for it, whether you build or shop around make sure you find one that is compatible with your sub. I would stay away from bandpass systems (do they even still make them?) because you'll have clipping inside the enclosure that you can't hear and will blow the sub.
I personally like a sealed box because you can't go wrong with that, while others like ported systems......again listen to both and you decide. It will be harder to find a ported box that matches your sub (unless you build it). Your chances of finding a sealed enclosure to match the sub is more common, they are all over the internet.
You can have the "best" subwoofer in the world, if it's not properly loaded you've wasted your money.
Good luck with your search
[/quote]
Im sure we will all agree about most everything you put here. Only thing is that just like you said, the system has to be tuned with the right add ons ect. Nothing wrong with bandpass or fear of clipping, if its set up the way it was suppose to be set up. Like I stated above. "get bandpass if you want to cheep out". What that ment was that you can get a floor model name brand sub cheeper, Use less watts (cheeper amp), Still name brand, & save a lot of money. My subs Rms @ 300 watts each. I had to pay an extra $100 to get an amp that was a grade up cause i needed the extra 100 watts. Band pass saves that $100.
Quick lesson on boxes. Everyone should know this.
Sealed box: This is for the people that want the clean bass. It is also the hardest set up to tune with. Tuning your amp is a must on anything.
Ported-Vented: This is where you start to get your booming bass, yet its still good mor sound quality. Only down side to it is that the port, or vents need to also be tuned for max advantage.
Bandpass: This is the box with the plexyglass in front of it. This type of box makes the lowest deepest bass hands down. The bass is so deep that you dont need lots of power or high end subs. Sound quality is the worst. In fact if you had high power & or better subs then you would blow the glass out of the box. Ive done it.
Then decide on an enclosure for it, whether you build or shop around make sure you find one that is compatible with your sub. I would stay away from bandpass systems (do they even still make them?) because you'll have clipping inside the enclosure that you can't hear and will blow the sub.
I personally like a sealed box because you can't go wrong with that, while others like ported systems......again listen to both and you decide. It will be harder to find a ported box that matches your sub (unless you build it). Your chances of finding a sealed enclosure to match the sub is more common, they are all over the internet.
You can have the "best" subwoofer in the world, if it's not properly loaded you've wasted your money.
Good luck with your search
[/quote]Im sure we will all agree about most everything you put here. Only thing is that just like you said, the system has to be tuned with the right add ons ect. Nothing wrong with bandpass or fear of clipping, if its set up the way it was suppose to be set up. Like I stated above. "get bandpass if you want to cheep out". What that ment was that you can get a floor model name brand sub cheeper, Use less watts (cheeper amp), Still name brand, & save a lot of money. My subs Rms @ 300 watts each. I had to pay an extra $100 to get an amp that was a grade up cause i needed the extra 100 watts. Band pass saves that $100.
Quick lesson on boxes. Everyone should know this.
Sealed box: This is for the people that want the clean bass. It is also the hardest set up to tune with. Tuning your amp is a must on anything.
Ported-Vented: This is where you start to get your booming bass, yet its still good mor sound quality. Only down side to it is that the port, or vents need to also be tuned for max advantage.
Bandpass: This is the box with the plexyglass in front of it. This type of box makes the lowest deepest bass hands down. The bass is so deep that you dont need lots of power or high end subs. Sound quality is the worst. In fact if you had high power & or better subs then you would blow the glass out of the box. Ive done it.
Last edited by STRIKER911; Mar 22, 2009 at 10:43 AM.
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From: Sanford, FL
Car: 92 RS Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Re: what sub for my T/A?
I am using a sealed box with my two 10" Bazooka's and I ignored the power rating of 300w max 4ohm but you could get like 600w max with liquid cooling, I have been running 600rms to them for over a year and they sound damn good.
http://sasbazooka.com/products/mobil...-Subwoofer-P95
I have a tuned box with the subs facing toward the bottom of the hatch area and I just carpeted over the top to match the stock carpet and if someone doesn't know these cars will think it is stock.
http://sasbazooka.com/products/mobil...-Subwoofer-P95
I have a tuned box with the subs facing toward the bottom of the hatch area and I just carpeted over the top to match the stock carpet and if someone doesn't know these cars will think it is stock.
Re: what sub for my T/A?
I have 2 12" JL W6 in a sealed box in my hatch, and i love it.
The hatch WILL amplify your bass, so take in mind that while you tune it with your hatch open, it will sound 2x as loud as when the hatch is closed. I had to learn that the hard way.
Anyways, what are you looking to spend on subs? That'll determine really what subs are the best for the price and quality.
I actually have 3 JL W6's all 10 inch, with a box that i'm selling (perfect, nothing wrong) so tell me what you're lookin to spend and maybe we can work out a deal.
The hatch WILL amplify your bass, so take in mind that while you tune it with your hatch open, it will sound 2x as loud as when the hatch is closed. I had to learn that the hard way.

Anyways, what are you looking to spend on subs? That'll determine really what subs are the best for the price and quality.
I actually have 3 JL W6's all 10 inch, with a box that i'm selling (perfect, nothing wrong) so tell me what you're lookin to spend and maybe we can work out a deal.
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From: Independence Mo
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305 TBI (lo3)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Whatever is stock.
Re: what sub for my T/A?
I have 2 12" JL W6 in a sealed box in my hatch, and i love it.
The hatch WILL amplify your bass, so take in mind that while you tune it with your hatch open, it will sound 2x as loud as when the hatch is closed. I had to learn that the hard way.
Anyways, what are you looking to spend on subs? That'll determine really what subs are the best for the price and quality.
I actually have 3 JL W6's all 10 inch, with a box that i'm selling (perfect, nothing wrong) so tell me what you're lookin to spend and maybe we can work out a deal.
The hatch WILL amplify your bass, so take in mind that while you tune it with your hatch open, it will sound 2x as loud as when the hatch is closed. I had to learn that the hard way.

Anyways, what are you looking to spend on subs? That'll determine really what subs are the best for the price and quality.
I actually have 3 JL W6's all 10 inch, with a box that i'm selling (perfect, nothing wrong) so tell me what you're lookin to spend and maybe we can work out a deal.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,444
Likes: 75
From: Plant City, FL
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 3.1L V6
Re: what sub for my T/A?
This is very true. Before I knew much about audio I had a pair of 12" Rockfords and bought this 1000watt Legacy amp(POS), I loved how it sounded before but now that I think of it, horrible. I am now running and have been for the last 3 years(yes, it's lasted me this long), a 10" Sony Explod and a cheapo 300watt amp I bought both from Walmart. Not the greatest equipment, nor the best looking, but it sounds more crisp and clear than MANY systems I have heard. In fact i'm perfectly content with it. Just the 1 10" tickles my nose hairs if I want it to while maintaining clean bass. I'm not suggesting to go to walmart and pick up whatever you can find, but to get what your looking for, you don't have to spend a whole bunch of money.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,444
Likes: 75
From: Plant City, FL
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 3.1L V6
Re: what sub for my T/A?
I am using a sealed box with my two 10" Bazooka's and I ignored the power rating of 300w max 4ohm but you could get like 600w max with liquid cooling, I have been running 600rms to them for over a year and they sound damn good.
http://sasbazooka.com/products/mobil...-Subwoofer-P95
I have a tuned box with the subs facing toward the bottom of the hatch area and I just carpeted over the top to match the stock carpet and if someone doesn't know these cars will think it is stock.
http://sasbazooka.com/products/mobil...-Subwoofer-P95
I have a tuned box with the subs facing toward the bottom of the hatch area and I just carpeted over the top to match the stock carpet and if someone doesn't know these cars will think it is stock.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 370
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From: So Cal
Car: 1987 Trans am (SOLD), 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 305
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: what sub for my T/A?
So how bout them Orions?
I keep reading nothing but good reviews online bout those.
I keep reading nothing but good reviews online bout those.
Re: what sub for my T/A?
Also keep in mind that with 3 w6 subs it will take a hell of an amp to push them, or three ok amps. Lots of cash for the amp or amps.
No need to blow a perfectly good JL sub. But i just wanted to let him know i DO have some subs for way cheaper than new. Senior Member
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From: Independence Mo
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305 TBI (lo3)
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Whatever is stock.
Re: what sub for my T/A?
Its all about the set up on most any system. I hooked up a system for a friend once. Had it all tuned real good, he didnt think so. First thing he did was turn the gain, & bass all the way up past distortion city. That worked for him for like a week till things started blowing out. No matter how I tried to explain it to him he just did his own thing. Cant take a weak system, & beat the block with it. He tried.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 447
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From: Warren MI
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Carb'd
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: what sub for my T/A?
I have two 12 inch Kicker CVR's and absolutley love them! They provide a nice deep clear bass but when I want to I can shake everything around me with the MTX 801 D class amp I have powering them! I love my kicker subs and would recomend them.
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