ok so i just bought my two subs 2000 wats each.. my next paycheck i buying two rockford fosgates 2000 watt amps... i was going to put in another batter currently have a optima red top and two capacitors for the amplifiers i might need a bigger alternator...

anybody else have input on how i should do this? and what else i need to do?

 

how about new distributor wires?

 

a bit overkill, but I'll bite. If the amps are really that powerful, the whole electrical system will need an overhaul. Upgrade the big 3 under the hood and make sure you have some 0 or 00 gauge wire runs to the back. Anything smaller and you'll have issues. Bigger alternator will be needed and a second battery w/ isolator (for charging) would definitely be a good idea. Caps aren't going to help you, may as well sell them and use the money towards a good battery (odyssey comes to mind).

If you have 2 subs on two seperate amps, you're going to need to make sure the subs are not sharing airspace. On top of that, you're going to want to match the levels of both amps if you want things to be working at their best.

What subs exactly did you buy? Any reason why you feel 4000 watts is needed? These cars aren't the best for SPL if that's what you're going for.

 

upgrade to an oem CS-144 alternator. 140amp alternator from the factory. And you might want to swap that Red Top for a Yellow Top...

 

even at half power, if he's using "true" 2k amps, he'll be somewhere in the 150+ amps range just to power the amps. He's going to have to go bigger.

There's a lot of things you need to upgrade if you're thinking of running that much power.

 

even at half power, if he's using "true" 2k amps, he'll be somewhere in the 150+ amps range just to power the amps. He's going to have to go bigger.

^ sentence destroyed my brain


Anyway, 2,000 watts is probably your max, in which you won't need to run at, look at the RMS, its either 500 or 1000 watts, look into powering your RMS only.

2000 watts / 12v is 166 amps needed to power just 2000 watts, or 333 for 4000, for 333 amps your looking at 2 extra batteries AT LEAST (one preferably a powercell) and 2 alternators under the hood if you want to continuously run it. If I we're you I would just switch to 4 250-500w RMS 12's and you'll get better sound and performance.

Capacitors do something if your electrical system is on the verge of not being able to power the amplifier, in which it should not be for a regular average 500w system. Anything over, scrap, buy a powercell.

#0 gauge is used for up to 1,500 watts on a single amplifier, so #00 would be ideal to each amplifier if this was going to work. Also make sure your alternator charging wire is upgraded to a larger size as well (at least 12ga, preferably 8ga). Do not power both off of one wire, run two #00's to the back and run a battery isolator for charging so you don't destroy the one under the hood.

As electrical demand increases, unless you go with a purpose-built alternator to handle a heavy load, you will eat alternators running that kind of power, expect it, don't be surprised.

Use copper or gold cable connectors and crimp ends, not brass or steel. Get a REALLY heavy RCA cable and run it down the OPPOSITE SIDE of the car as the power wires run down, or you will have plenty of interference.

Lesson here is if you are infact playing with 4,000 watts, then do it right and buy quality parts so your stuff sounds like what it is, and not what the hobo did with the garbage can.

 

^^Good advice.


Either way, everyone, im almost 80% sure this guy is not running 4000 watts rms and wont be. He prolly read/heard from somewhere/someone that the subs were 2000 watts a piece. Im going to be straight up with you right now. Ill call a.

What kind of subs are these. Name brand and model number please?


NOW say you are ligit, you obviously have to build a ported box cause no 2000 watt rms speaker can be used in a sealed box efficiently. Now figure that most 2000 watt rms subs on average will need about 4 cubic foot of box per sub. So your talking about an 8 cubic foot box with tuned ports. HAHA maybe in a sport-u or similar. Not in a hatchback which is pretty much what we all are. Im not saying it cant be done but it would be crazy to build that. You would have to put some truck springs(not literally) in the back end to support that kind of weight. Anyway the box would have to take up everything from the very back of your seat all the way over the hump and then down into the well. That alone would be stupid to try and build. After all that was done the amount of air left in the car to move(which is how bass is made) wouldnt be enough to even be THAT loud. If you had t-tops...haha well say goodbye to those cause if they arent already cracked they would be. And you know that nice large back window that costs alot of money, haha goodbye to that one too...oh and also if you have a wing on the back....yup thats gone too. Seriously i know i sound like an @$$ but come on now.

If your serious about sound systems you dont throw that kind of money and system into a car like this. Its a waste of money. Your better off throwing some nice 12's with a 1000d and supporting hardware and call it a day. It will be loud enough to rattle your hair and move the body panels. Save the 4000 watt system for a sport-u or large full size car. Like an 89 caprice or something like that.

Just my .02 on this thread

 

Sorry, wrote a bit quickly. Point being (which you've detailed much better than I did) was that this was not going to be a cheap ordeal if he was going with amps that weren't rated by marketing watts (the "when lighting strikes ratings" companies like Pyramid use).

I equate this with stuffing a supercharged LSx under the hood and not upgrading the exhaust/rear end/transmission. Its not going to work out well if all the parts in the chain aren't up to snuff.

 

I agree. I have 2 1000w 12in Kickers and they sound great...

 

Its like we had to tell people in the shop, just because it says 1000watts max, whats the RMS on it, your powering the RMS, if you power the max, its gonna be garbage sounding, distort easier, and be harder to tune. Also you're paying for dead weight you don't need.

I ran two different sets of subs, I loved both, one was a single Rockford Fosgate P1 12", it was powered by a cheap Pioneer amplifier, and it sounded awesome with all types of music, it didn't hit too hard, or soft, and if you wanted, the little 12" could pound your face off.

I also ran at one point with two Crossfire CF310D, which are dual voice coil 10" subs, 250w rms per sub. Ran those off of a 760w amplifier, and they still took your face off.

So consider your options, and price differences, 1000w will drive some ****, and all you need is a simple #0 wire, #00 ground preferably (as current flows from positive to negative, and the amp has internal capacitors, it needs to be able to discharge power easier/faster), and upgrade the big 3. use no smaller than 12ga wire to the subs as well.

10's will have tighter, punchier bass and louder overall, but 12's will be more rounded, hit lower due to inherent size, but lose some of its punchiness and loudness.

Or since you have it already, take your optima red top, mount it, get a battery isolator (cheap), take your alternator to a shop, Google and do it yourself, or do a 140amp alternator swap (not needed, but good idea). Wire your capacitors in-line, because it cant hurt, just make sure you only use one per amp (should only need 1 amp).

Now go look up a good 1000w amplifier by a good brand (Crossfire, Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer, etc.) and pickup two good 10's or 12's, Alpine R's aren't too bad, but I don't favor Alpine or Kenwood amps. I'm a big fan of Crossfire, but hard to find a retailer. Rockford is awesome, and some of Pioneers middle to high-end stuff is great.

 

I LOVE CROSSFIRE! Its nice to find someone else that likes it also! I have 2 12in db3's. Kind of old school but it looks good and sounds amazing. They are only supposed to take 250 watts rms at 2ohms but im giving them each a crappy profile amp which is rated at 500 watts rms at 2ohms. I obviously have it tuned right and the gains are set very very carefully. Im also supporting stinger wire and a kentik power cell rated for 800 watts. A little less then i need but it was dirt cheap as a buddy was upgrading his system from one 12in mojo up to 2 15in mojos with a 4000d amp(in a 04 impala, and we still tell him he needs a bigger vehicle for that system).

And ya man i feel ya, i wish crossfire would start pushing there product again. I REALLY want to get my hands on two new 12in BMF subs and upgrade to that. I cant seem to find anyone with crossfire in stock at ALL!

Either way like i said and like ^^he just said two 12's will rattle your car enough. My db3's sound amazing. Its clear and punchy(sealed box) enough to sound like your at a concert outside of the car(t-tops off and windows down) but also when turned up some and tuned right sound loud as ****. Mind you they are only rated at 250 rms at 2ohms. Personally Crossfire audio is where my pick is at for a DD car. As for SLP Cars dont get me started lol.

 

i bought two fi btl's so yea max rms is 2000 watts and what would i do if i decided just to get two 1000 watt rockford amps or 1 2000 watt rockford amp? what would i have to do then? and yea i was going to get it ported getting sombody to make one for me.. a audio shop

 

BTL12

DUAL 1 | DUAL 2 Fs: 39.3 Hz | 37.9 HzRe: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coilQms: 5.09 | 5.28Qes: .21 | .20Qts: .20 | .19Mms: 206g | 222gSd: 480cm^2 | 480cm^2Vas: 25.7 l | 25.7 lSpl: 90.5dB 1W/1m | 90.3dB 1W/1mBl: 18.3 N/A | 27.2 N/AXmax: 28mm * | 28mm *Rms: 2000W * | 2000W *Sealed box: N/A cuft | N/A cuftPorted box: 1.75-3cuft | 1.75-3cuftSub OD: 12.500” | 12.500”Cut ID: 11.125” | 11.125”Mounting depth: 7.250” | 7.250” Displacement: 0.18cuft | 0.18cuft


i went with the one ohm or what ever it means by dual 1 so there are the stats for one 12 inch

 

I take it the back seats are gone as you need a 6 cu.ft enclosure.

Good subs.

 

wait what? i cant put it in the well part

 

You might fit one, in the entire hatch, and have enough airspace. For those? the airspace you would need is much larger than the well area can offer, unless you like poor sounding toys that you payed alot for. Kinda like buying an OEM replacement part for $400 and finding out the highest performance name-brand part of same application is only $280. :P

And they demand to be ported as it doesn't even GIVE sealed box specs, so 1.75-3.00 cu ft EACH. The well area I think can offer 3 or 4 when built properly, im not even sure it can do that. Dual 1 ohm means they have two 1-ohm voice coils, wired in parallel its single .5 or .7 ohms, wired in series its single 2ohm. This means you would need 1 monoblock EACH putting out 2000w, OR a heavy 2ch amp pushing 4000w EACH at 1ohm (I believe thats right).

I hope your prepared to spend close to $1,200 to get that working properly.

 

Your power needs will be easy to figure out, look at the amps and see what size fuse they got. 2 20 amp fuses, so a max of 40 amps per amp, 2-30 or 2 40.....

use welding cable for power wires.

high quality over china audio junk pushed, just all black, no fancy clear or junk.

 

Do not spend a lot on name brand wire (Stinger, Streetwires).

GO with welding wire or cheap knu 0 ga.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable

When it comes to wire...bigger is better. Won't hurt to run 0/1 ga.

 

money is not a problem but if i can fit those two in back and between them have the slot for it being ported... i going to a audio shop and see what they have to say i really dont want to take the backseat out if i dont need to and if only one fits then ill just keep it for another daily driver.. but yea the rockfod 2000 watt amp is a mono

 

if money is not a problem then why on gods green earth are you going with rockford amp

 

I think we should let sleeping dogs lie on that.

Least it not discount brands from the grocery store isle,
buy 1 2000watt amp get a gallon of milk free.

 

why not rockford amps are good?

 

To get the most out of the BTLs you are most likely only going to able to run one in the well. Unless you use the entire area back there by fiberglassing it, using the spare tirewell and the are above the gas tank. As you know, the BTLs are powerful subs, rated at 2000watts RMS but can take up 3000 daily with no problem. Running 2000watts you are going to want ATLEAST a 200 amp H.O. alternator. Atleast 1 large spare battery, I would recommened a Kinetik HC2400, or either a Powermaster D3100 or D3400, plus an upgraded battery in the front. You will need to use 1/0 wire. Preferably 2 runs of it. Also with that much sub power, you are going to need to used quite a bit of sound deadener in you're vehicle. I recommend going with Second Skin. It's by the far the best on the markey IMO, and i've used many brands. You're also going to need to upgrade you're front stage and other interior speakers to be up to par with the BTL. I personally use mypre audio 65m midbass woofers and a set of Seas soft dome tweeters. As well as a 4" component set in the dash, and a decent pair of 6x9s in the sails.

IMO there is nothing wrong with Rockford amplifiers. Especially the Power series amplifers. The new t2500-1bd would be perfect for a single BTL. The power series line is still made here in the U.S. But since Rockford uses MEHSA technology on their amps, its best to buy them with warranty so that if anything goes wrong its able to be repaired. Otherwise Rockford Charges a flat rate fee of $175 and many outside companies won't repair the amp. I've had nothing but good experience with Rockford amplifiers, but there are plenty of other brands out there that will suit you're needs. The Audioque 2220d is a good amp and will do a rated 2200 watts. Sundown also makes amps that are well built and are suitable for your needs. Stetsom also makes good amps. There are plenty of options for you, if you have questions let me know, I have experience with BTLs and running that amount of power.

Also, www.stevemeadedesigns.com is a great website to learn alot from. Many of the users there will be able to help you with your application and their knowledge is very beneficial. They can help to prevent you from cutting any corners so that you get the most out of your system.

 

The problem that many people have with Rockford nowadays is that they started to outsource their products and went mainstream. But their power series is still up to par with the older Rockford products and are still very Underrated, and still very reliable.

Edit: the power series are also still made here in the U.S.

 

well i decided to run one of those subs and use the other one in another car but the 2500 rockford amp be better? were can i buy it from? what would i need to run just one fi btl and a 2000 or 2500 amp?

 

even just with 2500 watts, still another battery. As for the alternator... instead of buying a new one, you can get high output stators and a beefed up regulator to support it. For a 200 amp alternaator you are looking at $200 plus, $300 plus for top quality. a high ouput rebuilt kit cost 100-150(ebay). thats what i did with a 3000 watt system, turned my fried 100 amp stock one into a 220 amp beast for $130. Also, if you are looking at 2500 watts or more, don't choke up the sub in a little sealed box in the well. I have 2 15" and i laid down the back seat and made a box 43"x22"x24". 2500 watts will sound a ton better with 1 or 2 big subs in a properly made ported box.

 

well i want to keep my back seats for a reason i dont want to take them out.. plus if a guy has one in a rth gen and seeing how third gens have more well space ( i think ) i sure it would work