Caps and Charging
10-19-2000, 10:43 PM
#1
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Caps and Charging
I wanted to ask 2 quick questions. The first is that I recently purchased a PPI 1 farad cap. I looked all over the net and I did not find any info about them. Does anyone know if they are good or even if it matters. The second question I wanted to ask is that there was a post some time ago about the proper way to install a cap. A lot of people said that the way to do is to simply connect the cap to the power as close to the amp(s) as possible. Another group mentioned charging them first. How do I charge it before installing it and is this "Proper" way to install them??? Any ideas!
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10-19-2000, 11:06 PM
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
I just installed a Stinger cap in my system. I put it pretty close to the amps, as the instructions said. It does make a difference.
As for charging the cap, mine came with a small light bulb, and oyu connect it in series with the power to the cap until it goes out, and it is charged. You can also use a resistor, but I don't know what size to use, and you have to test the voltage drop, or just allow a minute or so to make sure it is charged.
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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
As for charging the cap, mine came with a small light bulb, and oyu connect it in series with the power to the cap until it goes out, and it is charged. You can also use a resistor, but I don't know what size to use, and you have to test the voltage drop, or just allow a minute or so to make sure it is charged.
------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
10-20-2000, 07:21 AM
#4
A capacitor. It stores energy and is designed to help reduce the strain on your stock charging system.
Anyway, hooking a test-light between the +12 feed and the +12 terminal on the cap will charge it. Keep it like that until the light on the test light goes out, then you can hook the +12 up directly.
You want the cap as close as possible to the subwoofer amp. Generally, less than 12" of wire is preferred. I have close to 3' of wire between mine, and it doesn't do a damned thing. It's useless.
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Anyway, hooking a test-light between the +12 feed and the +12 terminal on the cap will charge it. Keep it like that until the light on the test light goes out, then you can hook the +12 up directly.
You want the cap as close as possible to the subwoofer amp. Generally, less than 12" of wire is preferred. I have close to 3' of wire between mine, and it doesn't do a damned thing. It's useless.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
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