Vortex_89rs

Okay, for right now, I decided just to hook up the two different 10's cause i want them so bad. I got a Jenson 300 watt amp. It was something like 50x2 @ 4 ohm, 83x2 @ 2 ohm, and 300x1 @ 2 ohm or something. If it isn't that good, oh well, it was just what I could afford. I hooked everything up and let er rip. Besides draining the battery dead in under 10 seconds (new battery???) the subs didn't beat at all. I turned the gain up and they just destorted really bad. Any ideas what I should do? I am definetly looking into buying matching subs, as soon as I get the $. Is the amp okay for subs or do I need to start looking into something more powerful?
Vman

------------------
1989 Camaro RS
2.8 V6
K&N's
700R4 tranny
Cragar Street Pro rims (old Series 30)
Pioneer DEH-P3000

1969 Camaro SC
350 HO from a Vette
Turbo 350 tranny
In the process of being restored

Justins86bird

Dont expect a Jensen 50x2 amp to make your subs hit really hard. If your lucky, you may be actually getting the rated wattage. More expensive amps like Kicker or Fosgate usually put out alot more then what they are rated at, plus are stable at lower ohms. I'm assuming that you are hooking both subs up in parallel and that they are bridged. Double check to make sure your not hooked up in series cause that will definately have a negative effect on power output. Also, you should not have a battery drain in 10 seconds no matter what amp you have! Verify that the amp is getting 12+v at the amps terminals.

------------------
-Justin-
T-Top '86 5.0L LG4 700R4 WS6 Now Bilstein equipped!
T-Top '92 5.0L TBI 700R4
My '86 Firebird Homepage
The F-body Model Kit Pictoral Archive (updated 9/18/00)

There can be only one!!

daniel dekay

id say u need alot more power.

as for the subs not making any noise, is the red light on the amp on? check the power source first. if not, check the wiring inside the box and then check like justin said, whether or not u are in parralel or series.
o ya, do the subs even work? are they new?


daniel

------------------
86 camaro cpe(dont laugh)has 92z28 body kit with GTS covers, new red paint and a killer stereo. 2 amps, 8 speakers, disc changer, custom install with subs coming by the end of the summer. sawpped (or in the process of) 305lg4 for brand new 350. TES headers, flowmaster cat back, performer manifold, TCI converter, jet chip, kn with dual snorkel cleaner. and she still passed the sniffer!

"Cal Poly SLO is the shi#"

killrog22

If the amp is two ohm stable like you say, then bridge it. Look on your amp and look for somthing that says briged, should be channel one's positive and channel 2's negative termanals. Place both positive speaker wires on the briged positive term. and then both neg. speaker wires on the briged negative term, and this will more than double the power of your amp. PS: Buy a new battery.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

You need to do what I said in the other post. Ditch one of the subs and just use the other. I had a Jensen 50x2 powering a pair of 12s in my firebird for a while, and although it certainly didn't break any records, it hit hard enough to give me a headache. That Jensen is enough to get a sub moving. For starters, pick 1 sub and make sure that the box it's in is good and solid, with absolutely no air leaks. If the box is good, and the signal you're feeding it is good, you'll be set. What kind of deck do you have? Some real cheap decks don't have enough output from the RCAs and because of it the amps won't make any power even with the gains up. Also check your crossover. The Jensen is probably an 80hz low-pass, and you want to make sure you have that activated.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

Vortex_89rs

I have a Pioneer DEH-P3000. It is a 45x4 but is probably like 23 RMS. I guess - i don't know much about this stereo stuff. The box has some holes in it, but they are nice and have plastic around them, so I assume it is to let air out on purpose. When I had the subs running, before the battery gave way (while my car was running), the subs were not hardly kicking at all. I turned the gain up on them, but they just distorted. They did work though. I hooked the subs up this way - one sub to the left + and - and the other to the R + and -. I have no idea what bridging is, so I can't tell you if they are or not. While I was at Best Buy looking at the amp, they had a nice pair of RF Punch 10's in a kickin box that was returned, and was selling for a whole $90. I didn't have the money for both at the time, so I returned last night to get them, and of course the things are sold. I was so pissed. Now I have had to jump my car twice, and it still doesn't have enough juice to start. I would get a new battery, but I just spent all my damn $ on the system!
Vman


------------------
1989 Camaro RS
2.8 V6
K&N's
700R4 tranny
Cragar Street Pro rims (old Series 30)
Pioneer DEH-P3000

1969 Camaro SC
350 HO from a Vette
Turbo 350 tranny
In the process of being restored

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Your plastic "holes" in the box are ports. I'm guessing that you just put those subs in that box. Ported boxes suck unless they are built specifically for the sub being used. From the way you described it, it also sounds like you hooked up the system in a stereo setup and probably wired the subs out of phase. Are both subs in the same box, or different boxes? If they are in separate boxes, just use 1 sub and tell me how it sounds. We'll work from there.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

Topgun

Make sure you have your crossover so only the lows are going through the subs. Palying the full range through subs sounds like crap.

------------------
EMAIL: CTopgun5@aol.com
_______
84' Z28
New 350 Ci 4 Bolt Main with all L69/HO Parts
4 BBl Carb
180º Thermostat
K&N High Flow Filter
700R4 Trans
15X7 Standard Z28 Wheels, With 215/65R15 BF Goodrich Comp T/A HR4 Tires
Charcol in Color
no T-tops, but wish
New Head unit, JVC KD-SX750
New Kenwood 3-Way 6X9's KFC-6906S
New Pioneer Sub TS-W253C
New Jensen 4-Channel Amp XA-4150
As FiremanZ28 says "Friends don't let Friends Drive Mustangs"
Pic of my Z28, thanks to ZZ4 and his web page: Http://www.geocities.com/ukzz4iroc/z28camaro.jpg

Velocity

sounds like your polarity's might be jacked. Follow your wires from the amp to the subs and make sure that the positives and negatives are hooked up to the same things on each sub, and not reversed on one of them. That might be it.

------------------
'87 GTA
Automatic 350 TPI
2 3/4" Flowmasters
K&N filtercharger
4 3/4" Glasstech Cowl induction hood
TPI intake air foil

System:
Panasonic DFX-99
2 12" RF DVC's
RF 250.2 (Custom
RF 200.4 Painted)
Sony 10 disc changer
Clarion Pro Audio 4x6's

Chris Luongo

Even if you have a weak amp...even if you have two different brands of subs...even if they're in the wrong box...they should still make some bass if everything's hooked up right.

Either you have a bad piece of equipment, something's not wired right, or some switch or control isn't set right.

Here's how the wiring should go at the amp: 12V+ should be a thick wire going to your battery, with an inline fuse near the battery for protection. Ground should be a thick, short wire from the amp to body metal of the car. Remote turn-on should be a thin wire from the amp to the blue-with-white-stripe wire at the back of the radio. The RCA cords should be coming from one of the radio's outputs to the amp's input.

If you don't know what bridging is, that means you've been too lazy to read the instructions that came with your amp. In any event, don't bridge the amp if you're hooking up two 4-ohm speakers to it.

Does the amp turn on? There's a light on it that says Protection...is it on? If it is, something's wrong. Does your radio have one pre-amp output or two? Make sure your radio's fader and balance controls are centered.

The Jensen amps have TWO sets of RCA jacks...one input and one output. Make sure you've plugged your cords into the INPUT one.

Now check out the controls on the amp. One should say something like LP-FULL-HP. You want this on Low-Pass, so only bass goes to your woofers. Or you can leave it on the FULL setting while you're troubleshooting the problem.

There's a crossover frequency ****. A good starting point is around 80-120, and later on, you can adjust it to where it sounds best. (If the switch is set to FULL, this **** will have no effect.)

There's no way an amp could drain your battery in ten seconds. It would seem that your car must have some other electrical problem that needs to be fixed. If you just bought a new battery, it should be under warranty anyway.