Here's the deal, when I recently restored the interior, I wired the car up for the system I'd like to build someday, knowing it wouldn't be right away. At the moment, I'm running a decent pioneer stereo, a surprisingly impressive Clarion in dash EQ/processor, and 75 watts to decent pioneer speakers in the stock 4 corner locations.

I've been surprisingly impressed with this cheap little set up, and like so many other modest systems, it only really falls off at upper volume levels, and even then, it's mostly the bass that really makes you cringe. Let's be honest, with the t tops out and a cammed 383, -pure audio sophistication isn't tops on my list while cranking out Metallica. Good enough is good enough.

House needs a roof, and and I wanna put a new stereo system in my Trailblazer too. The custom built amp rack and sub box for the iroc just isn't gonna happen right now. BUT....I would like a little bump. Car is already wired up for a sub and second amplifier, I just need the hardware. Any thoughts? I'm open to anything affordable and NOT custom built. Like a powered bazooka tube for example would be fine, although I'm a little skeptical about tubes. A prefabbed box with a 10", and an affordable 200 watt amp? -totally fine. Heck even an 8". Just looking for thoughts and ideas. Given what I've said....what do you think? Maybe a tube would be "good enough", lol

 

I'd be interested to see what you come up with. I haven't installed anything yet, as my interior consists of carpeting and the drivers seat currently. The car originally was a 6-speaker setup, but I don't have the original radio or equalizer. I do have the original tiny subs and boxes, but I have no idea if they work. At any rate, I'm looking forward to what you decide to go with.

 

A few years back a friend of mine was cleaning out his closet and gave me a bazooka tube. Since it was free I tossed it in the back of my Formula. It works alright for fill, but it's a poor substitute for a real sub and amp. Last year I got tired of the aftermarket CD player and swapped back to the factory cassette deck. The tube is still in the trunk, but it's not connected. I haven't really missed it. I wouldn't ever spend money on one.

I've heard a tube housing with a better sub mounted in it, powered off a real amp and it was better... A buddy had a basslink that wasn't bad. I'd still lean toward something real. The Kicker Solobaric 8s in a small box were awesome in my old Firebird. A single 8 or 10 in the bottom of the well would sink a Bazooka tube's Battleship.

 

The box and amp rack I desiged (but haven't built and is now on hold) was for (x2) 8" subs actually. Might just buy ONE, and put it in a prefabbed box.

 

The 8" tangband sub in my car is really impressive with a true 100w amp pushing it. The box is quite small too (.5 cubic feet). You could make one in 20 minutes with a 24"×48" piece of 5/8" or 3/4" MDF. I could email you specifics if you like of what I did. I listen to 80's metal / rock too .

Tubes can sound amazing. All about the quality of components of course. A friend has 2 x 6" custom tubes that will absolutely kill most single 12's in a sealed of vented box. I have an SVS 12" powered tube house sub and it is unbelievably powerful. Very clean and has awesome low etension in our home theatre.

 

I have a box made from scratch sub box with an 8" MB Quart sub that I am selling. Worked fine for what I intended. Let me know if you are interested. I designed it so that side board sits atop the shoulder in the well, I think it looks much better than just a box sitting in the well and it stayed in place surprisingly well.

 

When I purchased the IROC years back, it had two 10" subs (might have been 8's) fitted into the storage well. I suppose you could say it was custom in a way, but really it wasn't much more that a piece of MDF fitted to cover the opening. The well itself was the enclosure.
Those subs, combined with what was then a quality Jensen amp was plenty loud. I added an adjustable crossover to aid in tuning the treble/bass balance to suit my personal preferences.

 

In my 95 GMC truck, I added an 8" tube I got from JC Whitney, replaced the subwoofer with a higher power dual voice coil sub, and powered it with a 100W RMS/CH amp.
Still using the stock stereo and 4 stock speakers.
It added ALL the missing bass...... and more. Sounds surprisingly good.
80s heavy metal rules!

 

Amen to THAT!!!!!!!!

....so I'm still undecided. Talkin' to Tibo about that box as one option. ....my wife (in a rare display of enthusiastic Camaro support) wants me to just build the box I've been talking about for awhile now! LOL.

 

If you think that's scary...

I've been siding my house for the past couple of months. It's been sort of slow going after I finished everything you could see. There was one face in the back corner that was only sided about half way up, but I had all the siding cut and ready to go.

At any rate, I come home from work one day to find that my pile of siding is gone. I couldn't believe it! I thought someone had stolen it. I walked around the house to see if anything else was missing until it finally dawned on me that the siding was on the wall.

Apparently, my wife, my brother's wife, and my mother had colluded to get my brother over there to finish up the siding for me so I could have more time to "work on the Firebird without worrying about the siding". Part of me was ecstatic. The other part of me was wondering where he was when I was hanging 16' sections of fascia by myself.

 

there is your whole issue. 75 watts/decent/cheap little set up/falls off at upper levels/no bass

Now, put in a good amp, and upgrade those decent cheap pioneer speakers for some real high-end splits, and you’ll have all the bass you need. I’d suggest a 6.5 split in the rears and in the fronts down low in the kick panels with at least 200 watts RMS running to them. A decent high-end split will run you about $500 for each set x2 will be right about 1k for just the drivers. Get yourself a good amp, like the Fosgate T600-4 amplifier, and you will really enjoy your sound system—all without any rear subwoofer. Unless, of course you want to spend $200 and add a cheap sub, to add some bass to your already decent system--but that would be like adding a 2 inch exhaust to your 383.

 

I believe every word you said....but that money just isn't in the cards for audio in the Camaro. I'd rather put that money into audio goodies for the Trailblazer that I drive everyday. -or at the very least, go fast parts for the Camaro.

 

I'd rather put that money into audio goodies for the Trailblazer that I drive everyday. -or at the very least, go fast parts for the Camaro.

The man has his priorities straight.

 

you can always go to the junkyard and find speakers. that where I got my 2 infinity refrence 4x6 plates, 2 polk 6x9, and a pioneer 12" sub.

 

I used to live in that area, I believe you. But how many cars did you comb through to find them?

 

not sure. I just walk around looking for cars that have had the stereos pulled out. most likely they also upgraded the speakers. the jy pulls the stereos only. I found the 12" sub just peering through the trunk. the 4x6 are much more difficult. found those on a chevy truck.

 

My advice is this:


If you're happy with the way your "retail store available" speakers are sounding, I wouldn't spend money replacing them. I doubt that you really even need to buy a second amp.


I would run the four existing speakers (4x6 and 6x9) off the head unit power. Then, run the subwoofer off the amp that you already have. [This is how the systems are set up on both my Formula and TTA, and both have good, clear sound, with good, clear bass. Running a proper sub-woofer will not only give you powerful bass that you can feel, but will also clean up the overall sound by allowing your 4x6s and 6x9s to stick to the high and mid frequencies, as they were designed to do.


I doubt that it would be too terribly expensive to build your own box, since its just material cost.


It is crucial however that you do not cheap out on the actual subwoofer. Don't buy it at Wal-Mart. I have had great success with Mempis Audio subs. They tend to go for about $150 or less for an entry level one, which should be fine. I went from two 10" "retail store available" Sonys to a single 10" Memphis on the Formula, and couldn't be happier. I went from a single Rockford Fozgate P3 (more expensive) to a single Memphis on the TTA, and finally have it sounding right. The Memphis subs are very versatile. The Rockford P3 was for too low a frequency and the bass would often overpower the music.

 

Currently, the 4 corners have to stay amped. The Clarion EQ doesn't have any high level outputs. ...and like I said, it really does sound good, with only 40 watts to each. The EQ made the difference for sure. Didn't sound very good before. Ultimately, I may (or may not) go with better speakers and more power, but again, nothing crazy. My ears CAN hear bargain store junk set ups, but I also feel top of the line pro gear is often not worth the price you pay. -for me anyway, in THIS application.

Here's the deal guys: The wife is on board with me building/finish the system the way I want, which isn't crazy really, but doesn't involve a cheap quick sub. Roof is getting put on the house, and there are a few other real life priorities, but hopefully this fall/winter and I can do what I want. Not 100% sure what that is yet, but I'll keep you guys informed.

I have a few friends who have RF Punch subs, and they sound great. I'll probably go that route. I have the displacement specs, and I've spec'd out. the rear storage well. I'm having fun playing with ideas.

When the sawdust starts flying....I'll keep you guys along for the build.

 

Cheap and Quick,...... OK



My Kids S10 had the stock 4 speaker set-up, 2 mid range in the doors and 2 tweeters in the dash. Sounded like 1/2 a system and almost all "highs" blasting out from only in front of you while driving. Visited the junkyard and found that Pioneer Sub-Box in a 200? Cobalt. It's got wiring for Left and Right output and cost $15. It worked out so well that I've got to even off the sound by restricting rear speaker output a bit with FADE control.

While it's not well shaped for permanent mouting in the back of a Thirdgen ( or for the S10 - I just bolted it to the back of the truck ) it is very durable and can sit in the hatch to give you the kind of sound that your looking for till your ready to make a more permanent upgrade. I'm sure that you could find something similar in your local bone-yard.


P.S. I didn't connect anything to an AMP,..... Just spliced into the 2 existing rear channel speaker wires and started listening to Metallica.

 

Thanks for posting that up John! ...pretty cool little set up!!!!!

...that being said, ....I'm building my subbox/amp rack / system the way I've wanted to for awhile. I have the wife's blessing soooo, off we go! I have the plans all spec'd out on the computer, and I put together a routing file to cut on our 3 axis router at work. Not that you couldn't do it by hand, but....I have the tools so might as well use em!

I'm gonna keep a lid on it 'til it's done and then post up. Don't want to give you guys any excuse to try and talk me OUT of it. It's not overly impressive or unique from a sound perspective, but I think the design/install is somewhat original. We'll see how it comes out.