Well there they are!

There are also more car pics!

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91 RS Camaro
3.1L

My Car ( Now w/ Stereo)

[This message has been edited by Garmer (edited March 06, 2001).]

 

Nobody has any comments? I would like to hear the things that I could do to make it look better.

With my new box, I want to have the amp flush mounted in the box itself, has anyone ever done that?

 

looks pretty tight...those arent like spade connectors or something like that on your wires are they ?

 

Very nice....maybe you might wanna relocate the amp between the subs? Clears up hatch space and makes the stereo setup completely "removable". Just my .02

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92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
SLP 1 3/4" Headers (Coated by Paul Barry Motorsports), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Fastchip Performance PROM, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Xact 8mm wires, Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, Edelbrock performer intake

 

Looks great garmer. Still having problems looking out the rear view mirror? LOL!

Looks great buddy!

 

the one thing i like about having the hatchback, and having his speakers positioned like mine, is faintly being able to look in the mirror, and see the reflection of my babies in the hatch window =)

 

First off, that is the way the audio placed installed it. For 35$ (inluding wires) I couldnt let that go,,,IT PAYS TO HAGLE W/ THEM!

Klayburn, I dont know what spade connectors are, so I dunno. I am brand new to car stereo so sorry about that. And about looking out of the rear view and seeing them is pretty sweet. That was the first thing I noticed when I got the car back!

Pukka, what you said is what I am going to do w/ my new box. The reason I am not goign to do it now, is because the wires wont reach over there, they are cut too short.

Polecat, when the subs are going I dont even try to look out the rear view, you just can see anything. LOL These hit so hard!!!

Any other comments?

 

im prolly not using the right word, but, where the wires are attached to the amp, do they go through anything or is the wire stripped?

ive heard that running thru connectors you lose some connectivity and it can add a weee lil bit of distortion...just asking, and if you can do it yourself, i would recommend stripping the end and the connecting it...

anyone else heard of this before ?

 

The wires are stripped.

 

ok, either im on crack or the pics where just a little decieving...

 

Well that yellow things is like the end of the non stripped wires and then they are stripped and a metal circle thing pushes them together, when you screw them down.

 

flip the speakers around so you can read the speaker cones from the inside. they look out of place like they ar now. and the install people didnt make that box fit very well did they. but otherwise nice job on the stereo. how much did it cost you. and was it worth it. and how much crap is rattling in the back of your car?

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1990 IROC-Z L98/G92 350 TPI- 700R4
Too much to list!!
5,507 IROC's; 2,415 5.7L IROC's Produced in 1990
Dare to be DIFFERENT,
DAILY DRIVER: 1991 S10 2.5L/5SPD WITH CAMARO RIMS
MUSTANGS...ONLY 4 LUGS....HAHA THAT IS HILARIOUS.

 

The total amount was $586.xx That included wires, install, subs, amp. I thought it was a good price. Considering they first said 800$ and then I kept coming back and telling them to lower it.

The subs dont look that bad in real life, the pics make it look alot worse.

 

yea those yellow things, the wires go into them then they are what connects to the amp, thats what you dont want, you just want the stripped end of the wire attaching to the amp, no jew yellow things, and also, about the box not fitting, looks to me like they angled it a little bit to match the angle of the hatch, i doubt thats a problem with the box fitting...

 

If you dont already have one, think about getting a hatch cover to conceal your investment. Your subs are screaming for attention through that back window.........and just may get some. Can you say SMASH & GRAB?

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89 Formula 305 TBI
160* stat, 200* fan switch, K&N, Headers, 3in Flowmaster (hollow cat) back, pullies, 1.6 full roller rockers, B&M trans cooler, home-made ram-air
3.73 Richmond gears and SLP Zexel Torsen Posi (waiting for install)

 

RGZWS6, yeah i was thinking about something like that. But i didnt know that they made things like that. Where could I get some?

The box fits fine, I had just picked it up and i must have not put it back right.

 

It came factory in my car. It's kind of like a draw shade if you will. It's a self retracting rod the mounts right behind the back seats. The rod extends the full length between both sail panels. The shade pulls out and latches to your hatch covering the carpeted area. Good luck trying to find one though!

Also, think about speaker grills for those bad boys. It only takes a liitle to cut through the surround or pierce the cone. Trust me, been there and done that. I have 2 Kicker Comps in my hatch with a plate. It helps when the t-tops are back there.

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89 Formula 305 TBI
160* stat, 200* fan switch, K&N, Headers, 3in Flowmaster (hollow cat) back, pullies, 1.6 full roller rockers, B&M trans cooler, home-made ram-air
3.73 Richmond gears and SLP Zexel Torsen Posi (waiting for install)

[This message has been edited by RGZWS6 (edited March 09, 2001).]

 

check e-bay for that shade..i think i saw two of them today there.

 

this is my opinion, may not be the right way, or it may be. i dont agree with klayburn on taking the "yellow jew" things off. as long as the connection is good and soldered those connectors are better because you wont have to re-strip and mess around with the wire each time you disconnet or move the amp and it altogether looks like a nicer install to me when you use connectors.

and the connectors cause resistance not distortion(possible to cause distortion but it will be inaudible). so limiting the amount of connectors you use is a good idea. example being dont go using 5 connectors on a wire(splicing it together) so you can make it longer.

once again ignorant people **** me off(refering to the use of jew as if it were something bad)

ack this got kinda long.

 

I think that I am going to look into those covers.

I didnt think that those subs covers have to be put throught the cone!?!?!?!? WHY???

 

jm91rs, do you have the url for those, I am looking and I cant find any!!

Also does anyone have any pics of those covers?

 

What size subs are those? I was going to buy 2 12" Kicker Comp Subs for $50 a peace off of a friend. The only problem is that I will need to buy a custom box. How much did your custom box cost? Also, how do twelves sound in a hatch? I heard that the twelves would not sound as good because of the fact that there wouldnt be enough air for the subs...therefor they would not hit as hard. Please somebody help me. Let me know if they will sound good, and whether or not i am gonna get ripped off. Thanks.

 

Those are 2 12' Kicker CompVR's, which I think are the step about just the new line of Comp's?!?!?

Whoever said that 12's dont hit hard, should have their head examined. I dont think that anybody will say that good 12's will not hit hard w/ the hatchback, unless the box it total ****.

I think that box regular was like 150$, but I got that down to about 70$. Again the whole price was, 568.xx, which included
- 2 12' Kicker CompVR's
-IX702 Kicker Amp
-Box
-Install
-Wires

If you get those subs, be ready for rattles!

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91 RS Camaro
3.1L
Cat Back System, K&N filter,modified air box, Fastchip Stage 2, 160 thermo, Rapidfires and Bosch Wires 5 Air Horns
Stereo: Clarion Deck, 2 12' Kicker CompVR's, IX702

ICQ: 65384740

My Car ( Now w/ Stereo)

 

Garmer, I would strongly suggest that you either tint you back window or use a rear cargo area cover (I use the roll-out type that came with my '91 Camaro). I made the mistake of not doing either last summer and now my subs are no longer black. The sun faded them to more of a grayer color and I'm also worried that it shortened the life of the surrounds.

Don't worry about using the crimp-on spade connectors on your wires. It's standard, accepted practice in professional installations, and won't hurt SQ or SPL in the slightest bit.

 

I agree, tint that back window!!! I love my window tint, nobody can see what I have under the hatch. (Nothing right now, actually) Just watch out for cops. I couldn't tell one was following me untill he put his light bar on!!

 

Belker, yah I was also thinking about tint. I think Illinois the tint is only 11%?!?!?

I am trying to find some of those rear cargo things, but I cant!!!!!!!! HELP

 

in illinois yo can have the tint as dark as you like in the back but none on the sides


oh yeah you need that shade thing
here you go
http://www.ixpres.com/iroczdave/

 

or just spraypaint the window tint black...

 

Ok, I went to that webpage, and it says this: PLEASE NOTE: You must have the factory provisions in your rear hatch area for one of these to work correctly, Now I dont have that, so is there anyway that would still work?

Also does anyone have any pics of these?

And KlayBurn, I DONT THINK SO!

 

ok it was just a suggestion, thats what everyone in my town does...

at least you cant see in

 

The "factory provisions" are just two round black plastic things that are attached to the interior trim panels. I assume that these would be far easier to find in a junkyard than the actual roll-out security cover. I think the cover would be tricky to get mounted without at least having the "factory provisions" to copy their design.

If you could find these, buy the cover, then you would need to pull off the plastic hatch lid trim and slightly modify it. On the back should be markings where the factory cutouts should go. Just cut out a couple of slots, reinstall, and your good to go.


Another alternative though (maybe helpful) is to mount your amp on the box between the subs (kinda like you wanted although doesn't have to be flush) then build a frame (that sits on top of the sub box) shaped like the top of the sub box. Stretch some (non-vinyle backed) carpet or grill cloth over the frame and attach the frame to the box. This would hide/protect the subs and also hide the amp. You could just lift off this "lid" to show off your system. Anyway ... this is just a thought to get you thinking.



[This message has been edited by Belker (edited March 10, 2001).]

 

Belker, thanks for all the help! I was also thinking something like that, but i will have to wait until I build a new box.

I'm not too worried about them getting stolen. First off, I really dont drive the car all that much, I am a buick that is my beater car. Second, I live in a very safe town, where burguries (sp) are uncommmon. Hell alot of my friends dont ever lock their cars, and leave the keys in the idnition!

Again thank you for all the help, also does anyone else have any more comments?

 

So wait in IL we can have it to 11% ?
like to the extent where if i did 12% and a cop pulled me over i could be like, YeP. ....YeP..... nipple.


Nice to see more peeps from IL
yea, i didnt like that pull roll thingamabobee so i pulled it out.

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91 FireBird 305 V-8
no true mods,
ghetto rigged cold air intake,
People dont have a soul, its just something parents made up to frighten little children, like the boogie man, or micheal jackson..."

GheTTo Riggers INC.
We Make Mcgyver look Like Crap

 

Firebretha, do you still have it?

And where are you located at? I am at the farthest west point in Illinois, well close to it anyway.

 

watch out for the tint i got pulled over last night cause of a tinted plate cover and they busted me for the tint on my windows too it really pissed me off but here in colorado the limt is 4% and mine is 2 1/2% watch out and don't try to lie casue they used a tint gun and its right on the money just a word of waring

 

oh yeah have you thought about louvers i have them on my 88 RS and it makes it kinda hard to see in the back. (they shake like no other)

 

Aren't louvers those sun blocking things. If they are I really dont like them.

 

Belker, on those factory provisions for the shade isn't there also a metal bracket which was attached onto the car's chassis behind the trim panels to screw the mounts into? My '84 didn't have these cause it didn't originally have the shade, by my '91 does... Or did they do it differently on the early 3rd gens?

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DR Stevens
Car #1:
1984 TransAm
305 HO (L69)
750 cfm Q-Jet reman. by Holley
K&N filter
700R4/Superior shift-kit
3.42 lim.slip
underdrive pulleys
Accel HEI Super-Coil
180 stat/hi flow water
pump/Jet fan switch
dual snorkel /w/ hood louver
3" exhaust of some sort
partial emissions delete
Car #2:
1991 Firebird/Formula
305 TBI (LO3)
K&N air filter
Hypertech Thermomaster Chip
more in the near future

 

yea, i didnt like that pull roll thingamabobee so i pulled it out.

LOLOL FireBreather
thats funny... just thought i would point that out to everyone... hahahaha!
"yep i didnt like the thingamabobber so i ripped it out, hell got me an extra .06 Lbs off the car which shaved a whole .0004 in my 1/4 mile! what a bargain!"
i can see this dude looking in the back of his car all puzzled like.. reaching in and ripping out the pull back shade and throwing it out of the car. "thats the end of that..."

 

Hey garmer........Take that box of yours out, turn it around, flip it upside-down, and put it back in with the woofers facing down into the well.

More bass??? Thought so!

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L98, 3.27 9-bolt, Hooker shorty headers, custom 2.5inch Y-pipe, no cat, 3inch 2chamber flowmaster, JET AFPR, Ported MAF, Best ET: 13.86 @100mph. 1.99 60'
17 inch ROH "ZS" wheels. 17x8.5(front) and 17x9.5 (rear). Firestone Firehawk SZ50s. 245/45/zr17s and 275/40/zr17s. T56

On the way... Radar Blue 89 Formula, T56, Ram Jet 430, Ram Air, 17inch ROHs.