Well for those htat have seen the "conversation" between me and Jim I have decided to use the area given to try something...


Anyway thise is what I am doin with my 2 12 inch Rock RFZ1812's.
Ok here is the room we have back their cutting out that shelf like thing on the pass side. We should have roughly 3.95-4 cubic feet total from floor to the rear deck height. Now Rochford recomends 2 CU for ported boxes and 1.25 cu for sealed.

Me peronally perfer ported... I think they sound better. If any besides Jim have any opinions please let me know. I am not going for mind blowing bass here...just a good thump.

Anyway here are the deminsions we have to work with back there.
First the side parts(remember I am cutting out that self part) I will measure out including that shelf tomarrow. Rear edge is 15" tall by 16" top edge and 13" bottom. The forward edge is 10.5" tall and you have to make the line between the 10.5" and the 16".
The top plate is 16" Rear-Front and 40" Wide. It helps greatly to have a center line side to side. Now the hatch pull down is 13.5 from both sides. This leaves exactly 14" between the two marks. Now go up 3" on the center line and mark 5 1/4" to either side. This will total out to 10.5". Now cut that peice out and you have a nice snug fit to the hatch release.
Anyway going back to the RF stuff. Now back to the speaker box...Now acounting for 1/2 inch wood and not using the "shelf" area, you are left with 2 areas roughly 1.8 CU Ft not including the slanted area, so I would figure close to 2.1-2.3 total CU Ft of aera. Now add the speaker(Fockford says it takes up .09 CU Ft. So that makes it come in right around 2 Cu Ft...
Now these figures are what Rockford has tuned the RFZ1825 subs with 2 CU Ft at 35 Htz. It apears they are using a 3" port that is 7-7 1/4". Now this leaves plenty of room under the cover plate to mount the sub, Cap or anything else you may need back there...

I just wanted to share this for any that may need it.. You can always use the deminsions for designing a box for something else at least the total area numbers are very helpful.

------------------
Current 3rds...92 3.1 coupe and a 91 T top 305 Past camaro's 74Z28, 2 75 camaro's bretilina and a z28. Past rides HA HA too many to count, at least 20..LOL Kills to date a 3.1 firebird 2 stop lights in a row.
95 Grand Am
Serveral Honda's
a friends 91 Rustang LX(I know its a 4 but he keeps trin')

Planned mods:
Soon coming 3 inch exhaust, 1.6 rockers, High flow 'Verter, and Ignition system. Along with a complete turbo 4.3 swap planned later this year(hoping to get into the 10's..)
Current mods:
Set of Iroc sway bars front and rear..amazing differance, Air box bottom completely removed allowing my K&N to act like an open element filter.
Lower profile tires, 195/55/15 front 205/55/15 rear handles better.
And a 160 deg thermo for a V8(and yes it works just fine)

Sterio Sony CD head unit and 9 band EQ, Boston acutics 4x6 dash, Alpine 3 way 6x9 sail, California sounds active crossover, Kroiiler 600 watt amp powering the 'pines and Bostons, 600 watt Jensen powering 2 Rockord Fosgate RFZ1812 subs. And all this cost less then $575...

 

I don't have an opinion, but if I did I'd tell you that after you take into account the thickness of the wood and the angle of the floor, you're going to wind up with just a very small bit over 1.5 cubic feet per sub with 3/4" wood, and if I were to have an opinion on rigidity, I would say that 1/2" is not going to be thick enough to damp resonances, so you might want to consider 3/4" MDF.

But what do I know?

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

[This message has been edited by Jim85IROC (edited June 21, 2001).]

 

Sounds interesting.... I dunno how crazy id be about cutting up the natural trunk like that, i KNOW boxes can be made to house enough cubic feet WITH that "shelves" still intact.

I had a large system with ported subs a while back, and currently im working on one eith sealed subs, and i have to disagree with you. I loved the way my ported subs sounded, but i got a harder vibration in the car, and less quality sound. It was easier to get a better feel cheaper, but when i really tried to push it, i wished i had gone sealed. Thats just me though.

Also, i would go 3/4's as well. Sounds interesting though, be sure to toss some pics up as you go.

 

heres a better idea, why dont you just make a box to the subwoofers specs, and if its too big, then just add a block of wood to the inside to lessen airspace???

or better yet, just order a box already made for two 12"s with more airspace needed, then add a block of wood to the inside to match the subs???

save yourself alot of time and pain (splinters), caughing and hacking (sawdust) etc, etc.. and just get a box.

but then again, this is how you'll learn.

kev

 

Well heres an update after last night.
As I said I perfer the sound of ported, but theres just a shade under what the manufacturer recomends, 1.85 CU ft as to 2 CU Ft. So I guess I am stuck to sealed which RockFord says 1.25 Cu Ft works best with these particular subs. Anyway I did some more configuring and came up with a good sealed box size.

2 of these boxes at 14(h)x14(deep)x12(w). This equals 1.36 total Cu Ft of space. Now add the 1.25 (RF recomends) and add the .09 RF says the sub cage takes up and your pretty damn close, only .02 Cu Ft off... And we can more than come up with that mounting area in our hatch's. With the area being 16-17(L)x40(w)x15(deep)

Anyway I plan on putting this togeather some time this week... And I plan on using the 1/2 inch wood with 90 deg metal reinforcing tabs. I think I will get 2 4x8 peices (so I have plenty of spare wood) and 6-7 4 peice reinforcing tabs sets.

And the reason I don't want to buy a prefab box is I do not feel like spending 100-150 bucks.

[This message has been edited by Camaro_hunter_d (edited June 22, 2001).]

 

yea right, try $250 - $300. they're custom, fit perfectly, and are guaranteed to be sealed and sounc good

See if you can find a used one for cheap, got mine and two 10" Kicker Comp VRs for $100
(dude was a little drunk, but thats ok)

deals are out there, just gotta be in the right place at the right time

kev

p.s.- i only recommend ported enclosures for cars with trunks, just a personal preference.

p.s.- i think jims are a little cheaper, and more time is probably put into them, ask him for some prices

 

Umm no offense but HELL no...

And I have got a quote from Sterio One in Carbondale and theirs was 120 plus tax...And it eats up the entire hatch area...This way I have room for remote amp(under the subs) and a cap. With a little room to still put stuff back their...Like t tops... And will cost me 45 bucks so far....13.85 for the board and 8 bucks for the metal tabs with screws and 2 bucks for the wood glue. Oh and can't forget 5 bucks for the carpet.

 

And these are sealed. I perfer ported but theres not enough Cu ft back there to support what Rockford recomends.

 

trust me when i tell you theres PLENTY of room back there to hold what Rockford recommends, trust me.

if youre still lookin for my opinion, i would definately buy a custom box, and build an amp rack out of wood that sits a few inches off the gas tank so you can jsut slide your Ttops under the rack.

amp racks are 100x's easier to build and it will look real professional if dont the right way. not to mention the box will sound better.. again just my opinion!

kev

 

 

thats gonna be a huge PIA to adjust the amp if its under the sub. i threw some particle board under my carpet and over my gas tank and screwed my amps and EQ to that. it works great and looks decent too. and when i actually get the cash to get the eclipse aluminums and when i finally buld a box to house the 2 12s (or 3 10s, but leaning to 12s) then im gonna build an amp rack with hidden neons and ill probably do something with plexiglass but i dont have a final desgin yet. any case, amp racks can be great looking and much more accessable if you need to tweak your system.

------------------
1979 L-82 Beefed up Corvette. Bright-orange with orange pearl.
end of summer: NOS!! im thinkin 250 shot. (already have a full race engine.)
god i love this car.

1985 WS6 Trans AM T-tops
bone stock sloth of an engine on its last leg(LG4 w/ 175,000mi)
T-5 tranny. thank god, i couldnt stand an LG4 auto.
Plans for an LT1,
dual exaust,
& a pounding stereo.

[This message has been edited by 85ws6TA (edited June 22, 2001).]

 

nice and shady?? dude?? no way. it'll probably be hotter than hell down there.

Your much better off on top of the Gas Tank where there is sufficient air flow.

kev

 

well since the amps will not be altered before I move it there will not really be a need to adjust it. And I must say there have been many a candy bar survive without melting back there in that well and they have even been covered up... So I think an amp will too... I do like the idea of an amp rack behind the rear seat but the area I live in I am not tring to advertise my stuff either(thumping is one thing advertising by placing the stuff in the open is another)... Anyway I have an old engine cooling fan in my garage somewhere that if the amp ever does cut out back there I can mount and wire it up.

 

engine cooling fan? arent they like ****ing huge?

candy bars dont generate heat, amps do.

amp rack it up!

kev

 

Its 13 inches I think???? And I was using the candy bar as an example...

 

yea but it was a poor example, a candy bar doesnt generate heat. Something that makes heat is gonna heat up alot faster in an enclosed area than a candy bar, think about it.

would you put this 13" fan in your car????

kev

 

don't forget the silicone sealant. I noticed you hadn't listed that yet... after I bought all the tools, to keep the wood at perfect right angles while I drilled and glued and what not, it still came out to $70.. and if it doesn't sound good, it's all money wasted.. and I'll go back to the drawing board(and use a table saw.)

Anthony

------------------
previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.

Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 76k miles.

 

well I made the boxes yeaterday and did a "dry run" with them out of the car to see how they sounded... Well they sounded great while playing Korn Freak on a leash until the 3rd bass hit then BOOM!!!!!! and when the cloud of saw dust settled, my speakers were laying on the ground. After many many laughs later, I cut out the plate 16 by 40 thing with the hatch hold down cut out too. Anyway I put them in that and pushed them down into the well. Anyway it settles flat with the top self and goes straight back. Anyway they sound great just like that...So good in fact it shook the rear veiw mirror off... 2 times even...


And by the way I used 5/8 thick wood... Anyway I am going to try building them yet again tommarrow with thicker wood... Anyway you live and you learn. And anyway it was a cool show....

Would it have mattered if I had them(the subs) Power wire to 1 pos. Then ran a wire from 1 neg to 2 pos. and the speaker ground to 2 neg. I think it cut the ohms in half ... I think... correct me if I am wrong.

 

Well I think I will use resin to glue the wood and use silicone to help seal some more. I quess some more metal brackets might help... quess 2 on each board corner were not enough....

 

What type of wood did you use that it managed to blow it apart?

 

Pine press board...

 

well I got some 23/32 pine board today and gonna retry tomarrow... anyway I loved the sight of the boxes blowing up the otherday... LOL ... It was SOOOOOOOOOO funny!!

 

Well after the funny as hell explosion the other day I have bought some 23/32 thick pine and redid the measurments as well...
Anyway I am doing the boxes still sealed, at 12x16 1/8 internally, this comes out to 1.36 Cu Ft roughly so I am only over .1 Cu Ft over which I do not think that will matter. Anyway I have 12x12 L&R sides, 12x17 3/4 sides front&rear, and I am mounting it to a plate on the top and the bottom cover is 17 3/4x13 5/8. Anyway I will be attempting this tommarrow.. Hopefully without the explosion... The subs will be mounting into the plate on the top and I bought some fabric cover that I am going to run over the entire thing. I bought some more braces as well today... Maybe that will help too...

 

I'm not making any suggestions, but if I did I would say that after you blow this one apart too, to stop screwing around with pine board and get MDF.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

I think you might want to follow Jim's "non-advise" and try using some MDF. Are you using wood screws, proper glue, and enough bracing? I've never had a box blow up, nor do I know any friends who have. However, we all use 3/4" MDF.

I hope you're not choosing to ingnore Jim's advise just to try and spite him or prove him wrong. It's gonna cost you in the end.

If you're building a box that will blow apart when you run it, I would have to question the build quality of the box. Even if you get one to hold together, I'd doubt it would be optimal.

Matt

 

When the box blew up, what happened to your subs? Didnt they fall to the ground or bottom of the trunk, wherever they were running? Wow, im surprised they didnt break or get punctured. Anyhoot, ill jump the MDF bandwagon too, its good stuff

 

well no sells it around here... the shop in C'Dale said they could order it for an ungodly price... 70 bucks for a 4x6 piece... If someone knows where I can order it cheaper please give...

But no the subs only fell around 2-3 inches... and no, no injuries....

 

i bet it would be pretty cool to see my car blow up and shoot up in the air but then i have to come back to reality and realize my car just blew up...Not something i would tell the world how cool it was..

Now this is just my opinion but it seems this whole post isnt to help other people build a box for their car but to pat yourself on the back and make everyone think you can build a box and do it the opposite of however Jim says to...which by the way i have measurement for my box which is perfectly flush and your box seems to be lacking flushness..but then again maybe your car was built on sunday and we all know how the gas tanks we're built different on Sundays..

anyways..i love the block a wood suggestion i may have to use that on my next fiberglass box =0)..

If you have any suggestions or remarks to make please post them on my new web site:www.*hit I wish you would have kept to yourself.com


[This message has been edited by Gen X Maro (edited June 27, 2001).]

 

I can buy MDF at my local Home Depot (large chain hardware stores, not sure if they're out your way), have you looked there?

Matt

 

Dude, MDF is 5 bucks for a 2 foot by 4 foot sheet, thats 3/4 inch too. Id check a local home repair shop. That place you went is trying to bend you over the unpretty way.

 

go to home depot or Lowes, hell even Sears Hardware sells it here.. I'd be willing to be ACE hardware does too. A 4' x 6' blonde mahogany piece is only $32.. I can't see MDF getting that damn expensive.

Anthony

------------------
previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.

Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 76k miles.

 

Bought a 4X8 sheet today for $20 at Lowes...

 

Well I found it at Lowes and its only 12 bucks for 4x8... So... Anyway they only have it at 5/8 thick... The RFZ's I have is the RF entry level sub(only 200-250 watts) So I quess I will just use 5/8, and see what happens.


And Gen X the sub boxes that were made woud have fit flush had they not had an unfourtunate accident...

[This message has been edited by Camaro_hunter_d (edited June 27, 2001).]

 

hell even if the mdf was 70 bucks for the 2 sheets of pine that he has bought now, and all the time invested in building the two boxes he would have been better off

------------------
Mike Tennyson
1997 Cavalier Z22
Soon to have an IROC!

 

you could always do some bracing.. did you check a home-depot? I always seem to find more wood there. They had 1" mdf.. I don't know what the hell you'd make w/ that.. but they had it.

Anthony

 

Hunter, that "mdf" board you got from Lowes is not "mdf", trust me. It is some kind of particle board.

I accidently bought the same ****. $12 for 4x8?, 5/8" thick? yep thats not it!

so then I went to Home Depot and got the real deal, BIG DIFFERENCE in sound trust me!

kev

 

Well anyway I put 1 box togeather today and lets just say it sounds better than both the others in a plate. Anyway I used the particle board stuff, 1 1/2 inch brads nails, Sub-floor glue.

I made them like turtle backs... Top edge 34 inches. Back edge 10.5 inches. and 5 inches tall and just over 13.5 inches wide.(if you want the rest of the measurements just ask) These fit really well behind the back seat and the well wall.

Anyway I have around 13.5 inches between the 2 and plan on mounting my amp and crossover there. And no these do not obstruct the rearward view at all. These still sit about 1 1/2 inches below the rear seat top edge.


Anyway heres the measurements.

Top plate is 12.25 by 34. side plates are 5 by 34(top) and 23.5(bottom) and the rearward edge is 10.5 inches down, then go forward 10.5 inches(you will have to draw the intersecting line between the 23.5 and the 10.5 lines). The front cap plate is 3.75 inches by 12.25. The rear plate cap is 12.25 by 9.25. The rear bottom plate is 12.25 by 9.25. the rearward front cap is 12.25 by 6.5. the front bottom plate is 12.25 by 23.5. These are upside down L shaped.

I mounted the subs over the rear drop to equal out volume when the sub pounds. And I must reiterate that these sound damn good.

And I forgot These have the 1.25 Cu Ft too...(well 1.26 but hell .01 will not make a difference right?)



[This message has been edited by Camaro_hunter_d (edited June 29, 2001).]

 

sorry go down 11.5 inches on the back side...