I did a bunch of research, narrowed it down to 10 headunits under $200. I then narrowed it down to one based on:
RMS Power
Pre-Amp Voltage
# of Pre-amp outputs
EQ Bands
FM Sensitivity
Freq. Response
CD to Nose ratio
and Apperance

I decided on the Clarion ProAudio DX515. I can pick it up on Ebay in a dutch auction for only $142 new in box. Here's the link...

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1265593422

Here's the speakers I'm thinking about getting too. Until get enough money to get some plates up front I think I'm going to go with these Pair od Infinity reference 6952i 6x9 2 way's...

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1265593422

Opinions??

 

I really like that cd player...it looks like a 500 dollar unit... i havent heard bad things about it.. I think i might need to bid on one too.

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the auctions u posted are the same one. they are both the clarion proaudio head unit. just to let you know but i like that head unit, looks expensive. good choice

 

Sorry about the second link, I'm a little retarded...

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1265593346

Those are the 6X9's I'm looking into, any opinions on those? Thanks for all the comments on the head unit by the way. I thought it looked like a much more expensive unit myself.

 

bttt

 

I'd spend the extra money and buy the Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X615. That's what I'm using right now and I really like it. The best bang for the buck. It's only $230.00 which is $30.00 more than your price range and has all these features:

D MASK revolving, detachable faceplate
KEX equalization with six user presets (adjustments include bass center frequency, bass Q, bass extension, and treble center frequency)
multicolor fluorescent display
adjustable contrast
dimmer level adjustment
2 sets of 1.8-volt preamp outputs (rear outputs can be switched to non-fading with level control)
CD Text (with compatible changer)
System E's+ Advanced Crossover — for better performance from all your speakers, and independent crossover control/customized output from the driver's seat, whether you use the built-in amp or external amps
CD changer controls (100-disc naming with compatible changer)
Bass Management System (with a 1999 or later Kenwood eXcelon amplifier) for in-dash control of amplifier's bass boost
PowerSlide control (with a 1999 or later Kenwood eXcelon amplifier) for in-dash control of amplifier door and cooling fan
Memo Mode lets you input a message (up to 30) and set the date when the message will appear on your display
wireless remote included
22 watts RMS/45 peak x 4 channels
CD frequency response 10-20,000 Hz
CD signal-to-noise ratio 96 dB
FM sensitivity 9.3 dBf
2-year warranty

And it looks good to



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I had all Kenwood eXcelon speakers w/db subs in my car till it all got ripped off. Anyway I have the Infinity Reference 4x6's in my dash and they sound much better than my eXcelon's did. The quality is really good and it doesn't distort very easy. When I would crankup the volume they would scream like horn tweets. The Infinity's I have aren't like that. So I highly recommend the Reference Series if you want good sound at a cheap price. I've gotten married since I bought the eXcelon system so I can't blow money like I use to and I didn't have all my receipts for my equipment when it got stolen so my Insurance Co. would pay for much. I'm slowly replacing everything with the Infinity Reference Series. Hope this helps.

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Here's the harsh reality on head unit specs:

RMS Power: Worthless spec. Other than the higher power Alpines and Pioneers, they're all the same. The alpines and pioneers only represent a marginal improvement.
Pre-Amp Voltage: This is really only important for a competition system. 2 volts vs 4 volts is completely unrecognizable in daily use.
# of Pre-amp outputs: This can be very important depending on how your system is set up. My head unit has 3 sets of pre-outs and I'm only using 1.
EQ Bands: This can be a fun feature but can't correct for bad sound quality.
FM Sensitivity: Very little difference from one radio to another, and none of them are likely to offer reception that's as good as stock. In addition to sensitivity, there are other worthless specs like rejection, separation and some others.
Freq. Response: Any radio that isn't purchased at a flea market will be flat within 1dB over the entire audible range.
CD to Nose ratio: You mean CD signal to noise ratio. That's totally worthless too. Even flea market cd players have a signal to noise ratio that's better than any other part of the radio, pre amp or amplification stage.
and
Apperance: Well, obviously this one is up to you.

The sad reality is that head unit selection boils down to your personal opinions. You're not likely to hear any kind of difference in sound quality from one deck to another doing an informal a/b test at a car stereo shop. Differences you hear will be from different signal levels, or noise from the switching unit.

Does that mean all decks sound the same? No. Until the new Digifine units, I never listened to a JVC that I liked. I could definately hear a difference in those. But between Kenwood, alpine, Pioneer, and many others, I could never hear a difference. I never heard much of a difference in the Alpines either, although I still prefer them for other reasons.

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