Well guys this is kind of a special request. I need a sound system. however, its not for the trans am. I bought a '94 S10 Blazer so i can really go nutz with it. I already sent Jim an email but im not sure if he got it. anyway I have dimensions, and i have a pic of the rear compartment. Now DJSexy, i need some kicks. i want to do some 6.5" MBQuarts with the 2" (I believe) tweets that they come with. I can go grab some kicks off of a dead blazer for $5 a kick. now on the blazer there is no depth for the speaker to go behing the kick. in other words, the kick is flat against the metal. basically i wanted to see if you guys could help me out before i made a plan. lemmie know if you guys can help out and ill post pics of anything you need. we got a digital camera recently and i can take pics and have em up fairly soon if im not working. well lemmie know if you guys can help...

oh and the subs i am using are 2 MTX 15" Thunder6000s they need 1.75cuft each for sealed and 3.0cuft ported. im guessing im going to do ported, but i am gonna need opinions on that. the amp dimensions for the sub amp are 2.25" H x 15.75" W x 8.9" D. ill have to check the other amp for its dimensions, but its rougly 2.25" H X 12" W X 9-10" D

only reason im giving specs on that is because i would like to have an amp rack also. Jim if you arent able to make the box, i will pay for a design or sketch. DJSexay, if you are unable to help, i can experiment with fiberglass till i get it right.
Thanks for reading my long boring message...

 

how similar is the 94 Blazer to the 2000 on the inside ?? Reason I ask is because my father has a 2000 blazer I may be able to base the kicks off of. Even with stocks to use as a template, it will be hard to guess the right angles with out having a vehicle to test fit in.

Mike

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custom 3rd gen kickpanels at http://www.lachernet.com/kickpanels

 

well i know its not too much diffrent... but i can get some pics tonight and ill check out a 2000 blazer at a lot. they may not let me drive it,(being that i still have my temp plate in the rear window of my blazer...) but i can look inside to make sure. the 94 is the previous body style, but i dont think the design for the kick panels could have changed too radically.

 

I'm not one to turn away a sale, but if you are really serious about a top notch, perhaps competition quality system, it is best to build th kicks in the car, with the speakers in, trying different angles and such.

If you just want decent, but not perfect, however, i can probably get it close .

mike

 

hehe this is going to be one of about 3000 systems i am going to have in the truck... there is no way i will be satisifed for more than a year with one system. i just get bored of a certain sound, and i love diffrent installs. i am going to have neon tubes and strobes and all that crap, but right now i want one that i can get by on...

i threw a box together in about 5 hours with 3 clamps a circular saw and a roto-zip. needless to say im not too happy with what has come out. it will work right, but im not pleased with it. i really wish i had a table-saw, a jointer, a router, and about 15 bar clamps so i could do it right.

i figgure it will be worth it to have you to guys build a damn good one for me and save up/create ideas for systems that i can show off. so as of now, close enough is good enough for me and the imaging of the blazer sucks big time with the dash mounted fronts.

and how much do you think cost of the kicks would be? as much as i hate it price is a factor, and i know that its going to be alot harder for you to make it for a vehicle you are unfamiliar with so i will pay what ever is reasonable. and you got a pretty good reigon considering jim pretty much wont do em, and all the sound places cost $300+ for kicks....

sorry to make this thing longer, but i have to justify my reasoning for the equipment i have. MBQuarts are a good brand. i figgure i can use them in a variety of installs, and i wont have to toss em for a couple years. the Subs are a result of a 17year old with too much money. i bought em a year ago to throw in my corvette (i know 15s in a vette is kinda stupid for SQ reasons, but i have learned alot since then.) anyway they have been sitting arround for a year and i need to use em. Im using a PPI amp to power the subs (about 400w to each one) and an Alpine V12 amp for the fronts/rears if i decided i want rears. so its all quality stuff that i can use in multiple installs. And im definealty going to get my hands dirty and play with fiberglass and plexiglass, but i need something for the "inbetween" time... damnit, didnt mean to make this so long. sorry.

[This message has been edited by 85ws6TA (edited August 18, 2001).]

 

Well dude, any time you want custom work done, you can pretty much forget about mail-order. It's impossible to build a custom enclosure without having the vehicle present. If you wanted me to build a box based on your dimensions, I'll do it, but I'm not making ANY guarantees in regards to fit. The only suggestion I can give is to find a good, reputable shop in your area and discuss your options with them, or take a drive to Vermont for a weekend.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

well like i say, i just need something i can start off with right now. a basic square with a basic amp rack would make me happy right now. but i am gonna go around to a couple shops and see what they charge.

 

If a shop quoted you $300 for custom kicks, I'd consider it, especially if they are going to do it right and aim the speakers, etc ...

For me to make a set of kickpanels that are not based on my 3rd gen molds, I'd have to charge $250. If it were me, i'd spend the extra $50 to have someone that can actually base it off my truck to build them.

mike

 

damn, you guys are pointing out realities i dont wana here! oh well i guess ill trash the box i made and start over. it has loads of air leaks, and is just a little too small. ill just take my time and go buy some more clamps. Thanks for the advice. Either of you know how i can get a true edge, or perfect straight edge by using a circular saw? i really wish i had a table saw, but i have to work with what i have.

oh, opinions on ported or sealed? i understand that ported gives better low bass but wont perform as well on freq. above 80hz and it is alot pickier about airspace... basically i just want to know what is going to hit the hardest. and the subs im using can be used in sealed boxes, ported boxes, single, and dual reflex bandpasses.

And could you guys give me recomendations on speakers to go in the kicks? i know Quarts are good. ive heard that Focal and Boston Acoustics are better, but i have never heard either. im looking to spend -at most- $400 on the kick speakers. not including pods.

[This message has been edited by 85ws6TA (edited August 20, 2001).]

 

a circular saw and a skill saw are all you need. If you can't cut straight by practicing, just get anything straight to use as a guide. I used to use a metal yard stick, or a brass straight-edge that I had laying around. If you can't find anything like that, cut a 1" piece off the end of your next sheet of MDF, and use the straight side as the saw guide.

After a while you'll get good enough that you won't need any straight edge. I use a 5 1/2" circular saw and can cut half of the pencil line off. It just takes a little practice.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

yea, when i was in woodshop i could cut a perfect circle with a jigsaw. its just been a while since ive even picked up a saw let alone cut straight with one.

as an update, i whent to the local shop i trust the most, and the installer told me that kick pods would be a horrible idea in my blazer. i hadnt even noticed but one of my friends got mud on it the otherday. so he told me about $250 a kick, or $150 a door. so im just gonna get some MBQuart Q series in the door panel. i figguer that will look way more stock than kick panels, plus its cheaper and i can get the same sound out of it. and none of my friends will kick a hole in my $400 speaker. which is always a plus. ive already got some gears turning in my head for a sub-box that i can completly disguise, so it just looks like flat carpet in the back.

 

Have you considered putting grills over the speakers?

Regardless of the vehicle, kicks almost always provide better imaging/staging because they position the speakers in front of you instead of to the side.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

where the speaker will be in the door its still mostly in front of you. the main reason i figgured on doors is because one of the guys was talking to the clerk and he was saying "i wouldnt even attempt the kick" while the installer was saying how much of a PIA it would be for how little of a diffrence it would make.

i told them that i was only concerned with imaging and staging (this is all while they were in my truck BTW) and he said the doors would be a great spot. if you want i can take a pic of my door panel tonight to get your opinion.

the installer had told me about a setup he did in a newer blazer that had a 6.5" in the door, a 4" in the dash and a tweet right above the 6.5" and he said it was one of the best sound stages he had ever heard. and i figgure your thinking well hes just trying to make a sale, but the reason i trust this particular shop is because i know all the clearks and managers by name and vise versa (mainly because of how much time i spend there) and i have been offered a job by one of the owners for after graduation. he still may just want to make a sale but i figgure that this time next year, if i want i can make a new setup and try the kicks. i really want better imaging and staging, but i dont need to win competitions as of now. im still buying all high end equipment strictly because i dont want to have to buy brand new equipment each time i try something new.

but dont get me wrong jim, i know your qualifications, and i am defineatly going to listen to you 1st when it comes to sound quality.


[This message has been edited by 85ws6TA (edited August 20, 2001).]

 

dbbl post

[This message has been edited by 85ws6TA (edited August 20, 2001).]

 

does the blazer not have stock plastic kicks like the 3rd gens ?? If so, i don't see how hard it would be to make kickpanels.

doors will definately give better midbass though.

There is no rule that says kicks are the only way to get great imaging and sound. While they are one of the easiest ways, every set of speakers is different, as well as every vehicle.

If you trust the shop, i'd go with thier recommendations.

mike

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custom 3rd gen kickpanels at http://www.lachernet.com/kickpanels

 

It does have the same style kick panels, but i believe its because of the shape of the kick panel, and i know with the TA there was space behind the kick, where as the blazer its right up against the metal and wiring. i was going to install my amp and i was going to take that route. nope. nothin doin. i would have to drill where i dont want to drill for that. so im gonna have to pick a spot on the firewall (not a big deal) to go through.

Hey jim, my PPI amp's manual says that after a certain amount of watts is in a system, you need to run a ground wire back to the battery. i always saw that done but i thought it was for show. i figgure ill run it like this: i have 4 gauge off the battery to my fuse (about a foot from the battery) throught the firewall under the carpet of the right side of the vehicle and back to the power distribution block. sound good? how should i ground my 2-3 amps and eq? just route them to another power block and back to the - battery post?

in the TA i just grounded it to the body, but im not using the amount of watts that im playing with in the blazer. im throwing 800watts at the subs, and another 50x4 (or 50x2. depending on if i want the rears or not...) plus the small amount the AudioControl EQ needs. Also, do you think i should throw a CAP in the line? i kinda want a Alumapro 15 farad, but that would be more for bragging rights than for what i would use it for plus its a little more than i want to spend. i know PPI has 1 farads for a decent price.

 

One thing I'd do is at least fool with tweeter placement before you mount them. Have him put the mids in the front of the doors, but put some double-backed tape or velcro on the tweets and try them on the doors, on the kicks, on the floor, etc. Find out where they sound the best. They'll probably image the best in the kicks, and no matter how small the kicks are, mounting tweeters in them is a no-brainer. I had a similar setup in my firebird. Mids in doors, tweets in kicks. It didn't image as well as my IROC, but it was decent.

------------------

The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

Well, PPI is sort of wrong. No matter how big of a wire you run, the cars chassis will be able to be a better way of running the current.

With that in mind, I would also like to remind you that if you run a 4 guage from your battery to the back, but your ground on the battery is like a 6-8 guage (they are usually pretty wimpy), you are limited. Kind of like going with a big intake and having a restrictive exhaust. Both have to be big. Also with that in mind, the wire from the alternator to the battery might have to be upgraded too.

Now, I would run all the grounds to a distribution block (not a fused one, just regular one) and then from there to a good ground. The back seat probably has a nice big bolt that could work (s10 truck or blazer?) and then you bolt your ground down there.

Juan

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1987 Pontiac Trans Am
1994 Nissan Sentra E
1999 Daewoo Leganza

 

See thats the same crap we learned in auto tech! grounds should be as short as possible and the chassis is the best ground. but dosent matter anyway... i got lazy and had a shop hook up the amp and temp sub. i can see a couple spots that i need to fix, but its a good install otherwise. they used 4gauge all the way to the amp and used 4 gauge ground too. i was shocked when i found out my ppi amp would take 4gauge right into it. well not shocked, more surprised/pleased. the only other amps i have used only accecpt 8gauge and smaller.

[This message has been edited by 85ws6TA (edited August 28, 2001).]

 

my $.02
sealed box!! tighter bass.if it were me doing it (im no expert but did place 3rd in an iasca event with my own build/install) i would aim sub forward at a slight upward facing angle.

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87 z28 bowtie aluminum 420small block dry sump crower lt. wt. knife edged crank oliver lt wt rods brodix track 1's super ram intake slp 1 3/4 headers accel dfi art carr 700 r4 3.42 gears ssm sub frame/ladder bars.....other parts on the way ,soon to be finished!! couple more weeks!!!

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