Ok this is what I have to toy with:

Deck: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X911
Kenwood Excelon KDC-CX83 - 10 disc changer
Kenwood KGC-9044 Digital EQ

Amps: Kenwood Excelon KAC-X401M - 1200watts
Kenwood Excelon KAC-X501F - 600watts

Speakers: Kenwood KFC-6908 6x9's 4-ways
Kenwood Excelon KFC-XR60P 6.5"

Sub: RF Punch HX2 300watts RMS per voice coil


I plan on wiring the head unit with most of the factory wiring. From there im bring RCA from the Front out to the EQ with the EQ being wired in with the HU such as power ground and remote. Is this a good or bad Idea???

From there I plan to bring the RCA to the back into the first amp which is powering my highs *600watt kenwood*, From there it will got to the other amp *1200watt kenwood* to power my sub. The 600watt amp has an RCA output so I should have to only run one set of RCA's from the front. I plan on pull 4gauge wire from the battery back into a dist. block then to my amps. Same with the ground cept just goin to the chase of the car instead the (-) of the battery. Should I have a cept. ground for each amp???


I am using I 12gauge for all speaker wires. Is this good or should I go with something bigger????

Also with my amps they have the sliding door for the cooling fan which needs a remote wire for. Should I keep that the same size as the remote wire for turning the amp on????

As for a capacitor do I need one or not? I have heard mixed thoughts on the power that im running that I should and shouldnt have to use one. Is it better for the system to have one than to not have one?


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If its not a camaro or corvette then what is it really?

 

Alright I'll start from the top,

-Using the power, ground, and remote for the HU should do.

-You could run a seperate RCA from your HU to your sub amp (using either the rear or sub out, preferably the sub out if your HU has them). However if you use the out from the hi's amp you will be fine, just not able to adjust the level from your deck. Just remember to run these away from power wires.

-12 guage is fine for your speaks. 4 is fine for power. You could go 2ga though. Here make sure you put the fuse near the battery becouse if you have a surge it will burn the wire, maybe things around it too, up to the fuse block.

-I would use either a relay or a seperate switch to turn on your amps and fans. You can use the remote from the HU but sometimes there is not voltage if you have multiple amps, eq's, fans, and other components.

-You may need a cap, install it and see how your alt. handles the load. If your lights dim at all, you need a cap. Caps give you cleaner power and cleaner power = cleaner sound.

Hope this helps,
Matt

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1984 Camaro Z28 - Black w/ Grey int.
-GM Goodwrench 350 with Edelbrock 600 Carb, Edelbrock Preformer RPM intake, AC Delco plugs, AC Delco wires, 14" Accel filter, Homemade Cold Air Indctn., Edelbrock Chrome valve covers, breather, and Air cleaner.
-Profesionally Built Turbo-350 with Hurst shifter & B&M shift kit.
- Eagle Alloys 15" Alum. Rims surrounded by P235/60R15 BF Goodrich Radial T/A's
-Comming Soon:
3.73's, MAC Cat-Back, hollowed cat. & Paint: Navy Blue Metallic w/ Silver strips
Pics at: http://members.fbody.com/flashz28/

 

And what exactly differentiates between "clean" power and "dirty" power ?

mike


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custom 3rd gen kickpanels at
http://www.djsexay.com

 

ok i think i got lil confused with all the typing. I will be running 2 sets of RCA's from the EQ one set for the 600 watt amp, and another for the 1200 watt amp.

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If its not a camaro or corvette then what is it really?

 

Quote:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">

And what exactly differentiates between "clean" power and "dirty" power ?

mike

Ok well what I ment to say was when your lights constantly dim and come back you do not have 'clean' power. A cap will help prevent/reduce this giving you 'cleaner' or more stable power. Is there another term for this? Sorry for the confusion.

Also if you have two RCA's comming from your EQ that will work too. You should have a pretty nice eXcelon system when your done.

Also DJ I might have to take you up on your carpet kick deal. I want to put some Memphis 6" components in. I see if I can scrape up some money.

 

Cleaner and stabler are two seperate things. Noise filters take care of cleaning, caps take care of making the voltage level more stable. More stable voltage level seems to describe it much better.

Juan

 

Stable voltage is indeed a better term. However, while the differences are measurable with a voltmeter, I do not think you will hear a big difference. But I do still condone them for light dimming problems.

good luck with the install !

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custom 3rd gen kickpanels at
http://www.djsexay.com

 

run a cap, probably 1.5 farad with the wattage your packin'...

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'86WS7
Ram Air...
*EiyseWhite*

 

Why spend 200 dollars for a cap thats going to discharge itself in the first 10 minutes of play, and then put twice the load on your alt. trying to recharge itself? When you can buy a tsunami battery for 100 dollars and save your batt. Also no light dimming at all,
and as long as your alt. is 70 amps or higher
you will have no prob charging it...Just run 2 gauge wire from the main batt. back to the spare batt. and your done,, no more power issues.....
just my 2 cents, hope it helps
(p.s. check the sig.)

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84 l69 T/A
5 speed, 373 posi rear
comp xe262 cam
hedman hedders and y-pipe no cat edelbrock pipe and areo chamber muffler
performormer rpm intake
holey 750 vac,,tuned for the 305
accel hei w/msd 6a box
wp sr 305 heads,
stereo, 8 memphis power bass 10's,2 memphis 1000d amps,ohio generator 140 amp alt,tsunami dry cell bat,set of memphis power reference 4x6's,and a set of memphis studio 6.5's with a memphis power bass 400 amp on the highs....dbdrag comp car

 

ok, before we start to really get confused, how can a battery that only discharges 12 volts, be a better solution than a cap that can discharge 14 volts ?

True, the cap only discharges in milliseconds, but it recharges just as fast. I do not think it will place a noticible load on the alternator.

However, a battery is a signifigant load on an alternator, and it will not discharge until the system voltage is 12 or less.

So, we are bumpin with our stereo, and we hit a big bass note. It's a little too big for the alternator to handle, so we dip from 14v, to say, 13.5. Well now we pull from the cap, and hopefully get back up to 14v.

Now if we didn't have a cap, we'd wait until system voltage dropped below 12v, maybe 11.5. And the battery will handle the load, but only bring the voltage back up to 12.

Now all of this happens in a blink of an eye, but for a little extra juice while the engine is running, a cap is better than a battery.

Now, if you have a cap, and the voltage still dips below 13.5ish, you have bigger issues than just a cap and battery.

mike

 

ok,,,,,the tsunami battery is 14.5 volts anyway,,,plus it is a drycell battery,which means it discharges slowly and recharges quickly,,,,as for the alt issues,when the car is running,the alt supplies the power for it,,the battery is used primarily for starting the car.Now,when the lights dim the amp is pulling too much power from the car battery,making the alt.charge the car battery.But with another drycell battery(discharge slow and recharge qiuck)the amps actually pull power from the drycell,the drycell gets its power from the car batt.the car batt gets power from the alt. The drycell will never drop below 14.5 because the acid plate car battery has way more than enough amps to charge the dry cell easily.plus the drycell batt never loses its complete charge,unlike the cap which does so
many times a second.NO EXTRA STRAIN ON THE ALT.A 70 amp alt can charge 10 drycells easily...The point is the difference between drycell and acid plate batteries,They are different from each other.Now get yourself a spare diehard,and see ya later alternater.
also run your system with the car off,with a
cap and your going to need another battery,or at least a jump!!!! I was just stating that for the money,the battery is a much better idea than a cap....and besides with the power he stated he had,he would need at least 2 farad...
Check the sig,,,,,2200 watts and not one bit of problem,,even with the stock 90 amp alt.
All of the comps. i go to everyone has extra batts. not caps,,,this is dbdrag,,the most proffesonal comp there is,,,,So the pros know better,Right?

------------------
84 l69 T/A
5 speed, 373 posi rear
comp xe262 cam
hedman hedders and y-pipe no cat edelbrock pipe and areo chamber muffler
performormer rpm intake
holey 750 vac,,tuned for the 305
accel hei w/msd 6a box
wp sr 305 heads,
stereo, 8 memphis power bass 10's,2 memphis 1000d amps,ohio generator 140 amp alt,tsunami dry cell bat,set of memphis power reference 4x6's,and a set of memphis studio 6.5's with a memphis power bass 400 amp on the highs....dbdrag comp car

 

a 14.5 volt battery ? I might have to check that out.

mike